1 


\ 


■ ; 




lilt 


1 


iji 

■i 


J 


,1! 


J 


■sj! 


t 







N 




Class „i *7^ iC- 



Gopyii^htN"_ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSM-. 



AROUND THE WORLD 
WITH UNCLE SAM; 



OR 



SIX YEARS IN THE UNITED STATES 

ARMY, 



BY 

HERBERT O. KOHR. 



A TRUE STORY OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE BY 

A FORMER ENLISTED MAN OF THE 

RANKS IN THE U. S. 

ARMY. 

BEGINNING WITH RECRUIT LIFE SOLDIERING IN COLORADO, 

IN THE WAR WITH SPAIN, CAMPAIGNING IN 

CUBA, AT BATTLE OF EL CANEY, 

CAPITULATION OF SANTIAGO; 



Later, Traveling Across the Great American Continent, Sailing Across 

THE Pacific, In the Philippines, A Year in China During Boxer 

Trouble, Through the Suez Canal, A Great Storm on 

THE Atlantic, Completing the Tour of the 

World. This Book Dictated From 

Memory by a Blind Man. 



Akron, Ohio. 

The Commercial Printing Co. 

1907 



E 



n?, 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two CoDle? Received 

APR 27 1907 

/, Copyrrirht Entry 
CLASS f\ XXc, No.' 
COPY B. 




Copyright, 1907, 

By Herbert O. Kohr, 

Uhrichsville, Ohio. 







I HE AUTHOR 

DURING HIS SERVICE IN THE ARMY. 



Breathes there the man with soul so dead 
Who never to himself hath said, 

This is my own, my native land ! • 
Whose heart has ne'er within him burned. 
As home his footsteps he hath turned 

From wandering on a foreign strand? 
If such there breathe, go mark him well; 
For him no minstrel raptures swell ; 
High though his titles, proud his name; 
Boundless his wealth as wish can claim, 
Despite those titles, power and pelf 
The wretch concentred all in self; 
Living shall forfeit fair renown, 
And doubly dying shall go down 
To the vile dust from whence he sprung, 
Unwept, unhonored and unsung. 

— Scott. 



CONTENTS. 

Preface 7 

Chapter I. 

My First Great Parade, or the Cause of My Enlistment 
in the Army 9 

Chapter II. 

A Recruit at Fort Logan, or Two Years' Service in Col- 
orado 17 

Chapter III. 

Farewell to Fort Logan. War Declared. From Col- 
orado to Tampa. Sailing to Cuba 41 

Chapter IV. 

Landing at Baiquiri. Our Forces ^larch to Las Guas- 
imas. The Battle of El Caney. Capture of Santiago. . . 55 

Chapter V. 

Awaiting Our Transport. Home Again. Sailing for 
Manila 71 

Chapter YI. 

Landing in Manila. Campaigning with General ^IcAr- 
tinir's Division. On the North Line 85 

Chapter YII. 

Campaigning on the South Line with General Schwan. 
The Wonderful \'olcano at Lagaspi. With General 
Bates' Expedition to the Province of Canierines in the 
Southern Portion of Luzon 101 

Chapter YIII. 

Back to Manila. Sailing for China. The Battle of 
Tientsin 119 

Chaptivr IX. 

The Advance from Tientsin. The Capture of Peking. 
Relieving the Legations 135 

Chapter X. 

A Y' inter in China. Back to the Philippines 149 



6 Contents. 

Chapter XI. 

From Manila to New York by Way of Suez Canal KU 

Chapter XII. 

Army Happenings 173 

Prologue 189 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



The Author Durino^ His Service in the Army 3 

A Squad of Soldiers with Dog Tents and Camp Equipment. . 11 

Army Bicycle Riders with Field Equipment 13 

A Champion Army Bicyclist 15 "^ 

Elephant Rock 23 ^ 

A Group of Army Buglers 31 "' 

Natural Gateway to the Garden of the Gods 43 " 

Army Sibley Tents 47 

Palmer Lake, Colorado 51 

Camp at Broadmoor During Department Competition (13 . 

Capt. Chas. A. VVordcn Looking from a Deserted House 77 

Battalion Retreat in a Field Camp 89 " 

Soldiers Taking Refreshments at a Mountain Inn 93 ^ 

Funeral Scene, Native Band, Naice, Cavite Province .... 105 " 

A Group of Soldiers ofif Duty in an Army Tent 109 - 

Water BulTalos and Native 113 , 

A Group of Army Corporals 123 , 

Unloading Hemp for Manila. Naice, Cavite Province, P. I.. .127 v 

A Group of Soldiers with an Army Mule 141 v 

Soldiers in Full Dress L'niform 153 . 

Target Practice on an Army Range 163 

A Group of Army Sergeants 107 

Scene in Army Sleeping Room 177 

An Army Camp Kitchen 181 

The Author as He Appears at the Present Time 187' 



PREFACE. 




N writing- of the Army or Army maneuvers, and 
especially in campaigning, battles or engagements, 
one is apt oftentimes, to exaggerate or picture these 
too highly. In modern warfare, bayonet charges, 
sabre encounters and hand to hand fighting does 
not often occur except in cases of ambushes or where the foes 
meet unexpectedly. It is peculiar how many writers picture 
large bodies of soldiers walking boldly into battle, officers far in 
the lead of their troops, swinging their swords, rushing into the 
enemy attacking them with pistol and sword. One who has seen 
much of hard campaigning and field service, verv seldom sees 
pictures of these descriptions. With modern rifies and machine 
guns of many descriptions, this would be impossible as men 
would be shot to pieces before going in the open 10 or 20 paces. 
vSoldiers are trained to take advantage of everv bit of cover and 
keep from view as much as possible in times of battle, as with 
smokeless powder there is no smoke to hide one another from 
view, like in former days. ( )ne can notice men, how serious 
they look when the sound of bullets and shells begin to whistle 
through the air. Some of them show fear while others are 
apparently unconcerned as they move forward. But most soldiers 
acknowledge there are hidden fears which do not appear on the 
surface. There are many cases recorded of daring deeds in 
modern warfare as in former days but these do not appear to be 
as numerous. Perhaps the mode and greater velocity of bullets 
have some efifect on daring ; as a volley from a small squad of 
men at eight hundred or one thousand yards distant would prove 
disastrous. One oftentimes hears men talking after thev have 
been in encounters telling of great daring deeds which thev have 
accomjilished, but others who have been with them walk away 
and smile, as though two men who have gone through battles 
side by side oftentimes dififer greatly in their account of the 
same; one being more excited than the other. We have often 
laughed, as soldiers, on reading newspaper accounts of battles 
and could hardly recognize the graphic descriptions of which 
we had just been through. 



8 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

Many accounts are taken from sham battles or mock wars and 
written on as in real battles. This perhaps is one reason why these 
accounts receive such high polish and have so much dash about 
them. There appears to be something fascinating about soldiers 
and war. What great excitement and interest when your 
country is about to go into war with another ! The soldier him- 
self becomes very much interested and appears like a different 
man, but after he reaches the front and passes through a battle 
or so, his valor cools and this life does not appear near so fas- 
cinating as before. 

In writing of army experience one is often misunderstood as it 
is somewhat difficult to explain the movements and life of soldiers 
as there are many details which one cannot always explain 
properly. In order to make facts plain one should try and give 
as true an account as possible. In this I shall endeavor to begin 
with my life as a recruit and go through my experience of six 
years as nearly as possible as it occurred. 




CHAPTER I. 

MY FIRST GREAT PARADE, OR THE CAUSE OE MY ENLISTMENT IN 

THE ARMY. 

E were standing on one of the principal streets in the 
most beautiful city that I have ever been in. The 
veterans of the Civil War were holding their State 
G. A. R. Encampment. 

This day they were having their military parade, 
which thousands of people had turned out to witness. 

We had been waiting quite awhile and were growing restless, 
when we heard the cheers farther down the street. We felt cer- 
tain that the parade had started. Every one became eager, and 
pressed forward blockading the street; and as the parade ap- 
proached we were pressed back by a platoon of civil police. This 
was the greatest parade I had ever witnessed. I was very much 
disappointed as I beheld this mounted squad of big fat fellows 
clearing the street. My first thoughts were if these are soldiers, 
I certainly never want to be classed as such. They were all 
mounted upon medium sized animals, in fact very small. Some 
of the men looked larger than the animals. They seemed very 
much out of place with their large stomachs extending forward 
nearly to the horses' ears. They looked as if they would be more 
at home riding up the street in wheelbarrows. Perhaps they 
would have caused less comment in traveling this way. But my 
disappointment was soon to disappear, for directly behind them 
followed a man mounted on a fine steed. The atmosphere seemed 
to clear and grow brighter as he approached, for this proved to 
be the commanding officer of the Seventh U. S. Infantry, which 
nearly all, or I supposed at least all, had turned out to witness, as 
it was advertised he would lead the parade on this great day. 
What a difference in men! This man sat erect on his steed. 
The animal appeared to be electrified. 

The man seemed perfectly at ease. He was the leader of this 
regiment which the U. S. government had seen fit to place in 
this position. At the right and left were his aids similarly 
mounted. Thev seemed to understand every action or move. 



10 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

that this man made. Directly behind them came the mihtary 
band. The drum major, its leader with his baton which he 
hurled through the air directing the ' movements as he moved 
forward in quick time. Behind them came the companies in 
platoon front, filling the streets from one side to the other. What 
a wonderful contrast to our platoon of police. These men were 
arranged in height from right to left. They looked like genuine 
athletes, broad shouldered, heads erect, moving straight forward 
and looking neither to right or left. As they began to pass, the 
crowd appeared electrified; they began to cheer and howl like 
mad : they would cry, "here are the boys from Fort Logan !" 
This regimental organization consisted of eight companies. 
When split in platoons making a grand display of lO platoon 
fronts. 

They were arrayed in full dress : blue uniform, spiked helmets 
with brass trimmings, white Berlin gloves, ammunition belts and 
rifles on right shoulders. They moved like one man. This was 
my first impression of the U. S. soldier. As they moved by, 
directly behind them came two troops of the Second U. S. 
Cavalry. These were mounted. They had fine uniforms, fine 
mounts all arrayed in line, but they would not impress you like 
the infantry, stepping off together like one man. 

Behind these came the Civil War veterans, old men who were 
good soldiers in their young days ; but they certainly did not 
make the appearance that the trained men did who were leading 
them on this parade. They reminded one of childhood days 
when you soldier with broom-stick and charge on fence posts 
as imaginary foes. 

As these veterans passed by in sets of fours, they received their 
share of applause ; for were iiot these the heroes of former days, 
when the flag which headed this procession was in deadly peril? 
Could we not well afford to cheer the men who fought to uphold 
our nation and make us a highly respected power in the world? 
And little did any one think at this time that in a short period, 
we would be called to defend it against the world power. These 
veterans were followed by the state organization of militia. 
They were led by their commander. These were young men 
gathered from over the state. Thev were not trained or drilled 
but were men of every day occupation. Of course these men 
were not expected to make the fine appearance of selected men. 



TiiF, Causf; of Enijstmknt. 



11 



who were hired for niihtary purposes, and whose entire lime was 
devoted to drill in military discipline. But this fact was over- 
looked by the populace which had gathered here this day to wit- 
ness a grand parade. As they passed by in platoon front the 
people would hoot and shout, "Tin Soldier!" "Soldier, will vou 
work and step?'' 

Were not these remarks ill-placed? As these young men were 
working and trying to fill a military position at the same time, 
therefore they should have received as great applause as any. 




■""^'■ic^r^^-^. - 



A SQUAD OF SOLDIERS WITH DOG TENTS AND CAMP EQUIPMENT. 



lUit people who are out for a holiday and are excited appear to 
forget these facts. 

Of course these men may have put on airs and tried to make 
themselves look great, but when called upon later, they were 
ready to serve their country. 

This parade or the part which I witnessed was the real cause 
of my presence on board a train a few weeks later bound for 
Fort Logan. Here I arrived some time in the forenoon, at a 
little station of the Rio Grande R. R. I felt very tired and back- 
ward as I stepped on the platform ; and looking across to my 



12 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

left towards the barracks, I saw boys in blue drilling. At first 
I felt afraid to approach the reservation and walking in the 
opposite direction for a short distance, I came to a small cigar 
store. I ventured inside and as the day was warm, I called for 
a drink of soda. I noticed this man who waited upon me had 
that erect posture, and thought that perhaps he had been in the 
military service. I began to make inquiry and found that I 
was correct in my surmise. So I questioned him in regard to the 
proper way to approach as an applicant for service. He gave 
me the desired information and directed me to the head-quarters 
building, from which we were only a short distance. I ap- 
proached this building up a double street with a walk in the 
center up a gradual slope with great timidity. As I neared the 
headquarters my heart jumped and thumped, and I suppose as I 
placed my foot on the first step, if some one should have shouted 
I would have run, but this did not happen. And as I walked up 
the steps, and made my wishes known, I was shown into the 
office of the Regimental Sergeant Major, where he inquired as 
to my business there, and I informed him that I wished to enlist 
in the regular army. He made out my application blanks and 
sent me to the quarters of Company E, where I was to remain 
on probation for a few days, until I decided fully that I was in 
earnest about my intentions. This gave me an opportunity to 
observe and study the ways and life of enlisted men, before I 
actually became a soldier. Fort Logan is situated in one of the 
finest locations for a barracks that it has ever been my good 
fortune to behold. The fort is located about twelve miles south- 
west of Denver— the altitude being about eight thousand feet 
above sea level. Off to the west lie the Rocky Mountains — a 
long range extending north and south. To the northwest lies 
Gray's Peak, with the point extending far above the principal 
range. Farther to the north is Long's Peak, which rises yet 
higher than the former. These two points can be observed dur- 
ing any season of the year, appearing in the distance like two 
venerable white capped dames. Twelve miles westward lie the 
low foot hills, covered by a growth of pines, cedars, and sage, so 
called because these must be crossed before the main range can 
be reached. 

At this altitude the atmosphere is so pure and clear, that 
travelers from the east will look across to the foot hills and 



The Cause of Enlistment. 



13 



remark that they will take a walk over to observe them, and 
return before breakfast ; which causes the resident to quietly 
smile and say nothing. For when you consider the distance of 
twelve miles there and return, a good day's journey on foot, one 
suddenly feels that some other form of exercise will suffice for 
the morning. The clear pure air has only magnified the objects 
around, causing them to appear very near. Pike's Peak may be 




ARMY BICYCLE RIDERS WITH FIELD EOUIPMENT. 



observed from Denver at a distance of 75 miles. East of Fort 
Logan and down a gradual slope flows the Platte River. Folio w^- 
ing this river southward toward its source for some distance will 
bring you to the Platte Canon, which is south of Fort Logan. 
Northward flows Bear Creek, which empties into the Platte 
southeast of the barracks, or towards Denver. The beds of these 
streams are almost dry in the summer season, on account of 
irrigation they afford to the surrounding region. Following 
Bear Creek westward toward its source for twelve or fifteen 



14 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

miles will bring one to Bear Creek Canon. At the entrance to 
this canon is situated the village of Morrison. To the north of 
Morrison is the Hog Back, a small rocky hill which derives its 
name from its shape — which is that of a hog's back. South of 
the village and across the canon is the entrance to the Garden 
of the Angels. This garden or park is filled with rocks which 
resemble monuments. On some of these can be traced characters 
that resemble men, birds and animals. Here, those who love 
nature spend hours, tracing these lines — nature's gifts — intended 
for the admiration of all ; but are only seen and appreciated by 
those who love nature and to whom her secrets have been re- 
vealed. As you advance westward through Bear Creek Canon 
admiration increases at the beautiful and perfect walls of the 
canon. To the right of the canon a roadway has been con- 
structed over which one may travel westward across the main 
range into the heart of the Rockies. Then as you look north- 
ward from Fort Logan you observe Loretta's Heights from 
which can be seen Loretta's Sisters' Convent, which is slightly 
above Fort Logan in elevation. This is an immense building 
where girls are trained for service as Sisters and Nuns. This 
is a peaceful but solitary spot for this institution. An attempt 
to elope with one of the inmates wovdd invariably prove disas- 
trous, for from this point one has a view of the surrounding 
country for miles in every direction, making escape difficult if so 
desired by its inmates. Farther east and across the Platte as far 
as eye can see, stretch miles of prairie. A part of this section 
is irrigated and farming is carried on in these places. Southeast 
and beyond the Platte is the village of Littleton which is situated 
on the Denver and Rio Grande railway. This is three and one 
half miles from the Fort. Fort Logan is situated on a high knoll 
which slopes gradually downward to the north, east and south. To 
the westward are the foot hills which give rise to gentle descent 
of the ground until these are reached. This position gives almost 
perfect sanitary conditions. The officers' quarters are built in 
the shape of a horse shoe. 

The commanding officer's quarters are situated in the bend of 
the shoe, from which place every point of the reservation can be 
observed. The southern point of the shoe extends farther east, 
and on this line are built the infantry barracks. The cavalry bar- 
racks are built in the bend alongside the officers' quarters. In 



The Cause of Enlistment. 



15 



line with northern point of shoe, and extending east are gnard 
house and headquarters building-, which figure in c(|ual pro- 
portions. Just north of the fort in the Bear Creek valley and just 
outside the reservation, lies the little village of I.ogantown. be- 
tween a branch of the Rio Grande, and a branch of the Denver, 
Leadville & Gunnison railways. The former terminating at Fort 
Logan, the latter at Morrison. About one mile east on the Rio 





A (JHAMl'KJX ARMY BICYCLIST. 



Grande is situated Military Park. On the Gunnison line, Sheri- 
dan Park, where the residents of Denver hold their picnics and 
summer amusements of all descriptions. These parks are not very 
satisfactory places of amusement on account of beer gardens, 
and dance halls, which often cause rough fights between soldiers 
and civilians : but it seems that almost all military posts have 
such places near them. Here in this place of which I have given 
you a rather tedious description, I was destined to become an 
American soldier. For after due consideration, during m\ five 



16 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

clays probation, and a thorough examination by the medical de- 
partment to ascertain my condition physically, my proportions 
were given as six feet and one-half inches in height, weight one 
hundred and sixty nine pounds, void of all clothing, dark hair 
and dark complexion. Therefore on the fifth of May, 1896, I 
was sworn into the service of the U. S. Army for the period of 
three years. 



CHAPTER II. 

A RECRUIT AT F"ORT LOGAN OR TWO YEARS' SERVICE IN COLORADO. 




WAS now just a newly enlisttd soldier, for a term 
of three years. I began to pay attention and ob- 
serve the manner of those around me, — later my 
comrades. I seemed like a child looking up to 
these men who stepped with quick, active and agile 
movements ; but I, myself was a big awkward and overgrown 
youth. I was tall and stooped ; I imagined my feet and my hands 
were two large. I noticed that the men held aloof. They were 
not at all sociable, and regarded me as any other "rukie" who 
must undergo all the tortures of learning discipline and drill. 

As my first day wore on I became nervous and felt like a fish 
out of water. It seemed to me at this time that it would be im- 
possible to learn the drill and develop physically so I could ever 
look or act in any way like these men. I was soon dubbed 
Shorty. Some of the men had read Si Klegg and Shorty and of 
course as I was a tall man like this character I received the same 
name. My sleeping apparatus was issued to me; it consisted of 
one iron bunk, a set of springs, a mattress, mattress cover, and 
pillow slips. 

As I could not draw clothing just at this time a comrade 
loaned to me a few blankets under which to sleep until the 
requisitions were made out and sent into the clothing depart- 
ment, for regular issue. My sleeping quarters Avere in the south 
squad room. This was to be occupied by myself in company with 
thirty other men, until further instructions were received. These 
quarters were built of brick, and were very neat and comfortable. 
The rooms extended north and south, with a line of bunks on 
each side ; the heads against wall, and foot of bunks toward 
center. I was placed in center of row. On one side my bunk- 
mate or "bunkie" as they were called — was a tall young Irish- 
man. On the other side a much smaller man who was an Ameri- 
can ; I soon became acquainted with these two. In a day or 
two another man enlisted and of course the new "Rukie" and I 
became friends at once. A few days later the captain of our com- 



18 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

pany, a very kind hearted and fatherly old gentleman, called us 
into the orderly's room, which was in the front end of the barracks 
and gave us a long talk on the situation we now had to confront. 
He explained to us his position as captain, of his two subordinates 
— first and second lieutenants, that these men who were graduates 
of the military academy, had received their commissions from 
the president, and that they must be obeyed. And that all men 
with commissions from the president, in every branch of service, 
must be saluted when recognized by the mark or bars placed 
on each shoulder ; that when in a building or under roof, we must 
remove the hat in their presence, stand erect, and allow them 
to pass. This was a novel exercise to us at first, and the captain 
ordered us to remove hats and stand erect in his presence. Then 
he praised our efiforts and furthermore instructed us concerning 
our relations with the men. If they tormented, or teased us or 
tried to get us into trouble we were told to report to him, and 
never think of walking ofT or deserting, as that would be a blot 
on our character the remainder of our days, and we would 
thereby lose the right of citizenship. This was indeed good 
advice, and later I was thankful for the valuable information the 
captain gave us. In our company the first sergeant held first 
place in the company after commissioned officers. Next were 
four duty sergeants, then four corporals, who ranked next to the 
duty sergeants. The companies were organized in battalions, 
consisting of four companies each ; three battalions to each regi- 
ment. At that time each regiment lacked one battalion. There- 
fore each regiment had but eight companies Cavalry regiments 
were complete ; each one consisted of twelve troops. Our com- 
manding ofhcer, the Colonel, had command of all troops stationed 
in each garrison. 

Next in regular order came the lieutenant colonel, majors, 
captains and lieutenants. Non-commissioned officers were ser- 
geant majors, both regimental and battalion ; then first sergeant, 
duty sergeants and corporals. These non-commissioned officers 
received warrants issued by the commanding officer on recom- 
mendation of company commanders ; it was their duty to see that 
all orders received from company commanders through first 
sergeant were obeyed. Just at this point it is well to consider the 
arrangement of the diflferent branches of the U. S. Army. First 
in rank is the corps of engineers. Officers graduating at the 



A Recruit at Fort Logan. 19 

head of their class are assigned for duty in this branch of the 
service. At that time this branch of the service consisted of 
one battahon only, being formed in companies, the same as 
infantry. It is their duty to build field fortifications, intrench- 
ments. bridges, pontoon bridges, river ferries, and roads to trans- 
port supplies to the front in case of war. 

This branch is considered surperior to any other in the army. 
Next the Ordnance Department, which guards arsenals and 
has charge of all heavy ordnance of ammunition. Next in line, 
the artillery, both heavy and light. At the time of my service 
they were divided into coast batteries which handled heavy pieces, 
and the light which handled field pieces drawn by horses. Next 
came the cavalry which was then ten regiments strong ; and 
numbers nine and ten were colored. Last the infantry which 
consisted of twenty-five regiments, — numbers twenty-four and 
five w^ere colored. The regiments are made up of company 
organizations, twelve companies to each regiment. Companies 
are given names of letters of the alphabet, beginning with A, 
ending with M. Each company consists of one hundred men. 
In time of peace four companies are blank and each regiment 
contains but eight companies. In time of war the infantry is 
considered the backbone of the army. These men are armed and 
equipped with rifles, bayonets and ammunition belts. The cavalry 
are armed with carbines which are carried in a leather pocket 
attached to the saddle, ammunition belts, pistols which are 
buckled to the right side and long sabres, which are buckled at 
left side. This branch of the service is considered especiallv hard, 
as these men have saddles, lariats and horses to care for. Men 
in all branches of the service are equipped with haversacks, can- 
teens, knife, fork, spoon and mess kit ; the last consists of a 
double pan. whose handle crosses over the top and hooks top and 
bottom part together. When taken apart one pan may be used 
to fry articles of food, the other as a receptacle for articles of 
food. Each man also receives a shelter-half or half tent, one 
end of which has a flap and button, so that two men placing 
halves together can form a tent. These are called "dog tents" or 
"pup" tents by the soldiers, on account of being so small. Each 
man also carries a tent pole which consists of two sections so 
when placed together in center with a tin rim they form a pole 
about four feet long. This is fastened in center with guy lines, 



20 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

and each of the four corners of tent are fastened with iron pins. 
The flaps on one end are then buttoned together which forms 
back of tent. These are used in time of war when men must 
carry their, rations, sleeping apartments and cooking outfits. 
Each one is held responsible for these articles, and if lost through 
neglect or carelessness, a certain amount is deducted from the 
pay which is thirteen dollars per month, except in case of re- 
enlistment, when the pay is increased for the purpose of retain- 
ing experienced men. 

Non-commissioned officers also receive extra pay for filling 
positions they hold. Clothing which is always of first-class 
material, consists of blouse, trousers, underwear, shirts, blankets, 
socks, rubber ponchos, shoes and leggings, overcoats, fur caps, 
gauntlets (for cold climates), full dress coat and helmet for 
parade, campaign hats and white gloAfes for garrison, fatigue 
clothes, overalls and blouses for working purposes. These articles 
are issued to the men as needed. The goverrnment makes a 
clothing allowance for each man at a certain rate per annum, at 
cost price for clothing. When a man overdraws this allowance, 
the amount overdrawn is deducted from his pay. What he saves 
on this allowance he receives at the expiration of his term of 
service. It is to each one's interest then, to be careful with his 
clothing. The quartermaster department has charge of these 
articles, also of the fuel, picks, shovels and mules and wagons, for 
transportation. Each regiment has a quartermastter department 
which draws from the general quartermaster department. The 
commissary department supplies rations, of which each man 
receives his allotment. This consists of flour or bread, potatoes, 
fresh meat, salt pork, beans, onions, fish or salmon, dried fruits, 
such as prunes and apples, tomatoes, coffee, sugar, vinegar, and 
"hard tack" or crackers. Field rations are not issued in as 
large a quantity as garrison. The field rations consist of hard 
tack, canned tomatoes, corned beef or bacon, beans, coifee, sugar, 
salmon and dried fruits. There is also an emergency ration for 
field service — meat and vegetables in one compound, which are 
placed in packages. 

In each garrison is found a post hospital. This has splendid 
buildings well regulated and in charge of the medical depart- 
ment of the Army. In field service they are known as field 
hospitals ; the nurses are enlisted men. The officers rank as 



A Recruit at Fort Logan. 21 

colonel doctors, major doctors and captain doctors; the chief of 
the department is a general. The non-commissioned staff rank 
as first steward, second steward and assistant steward. The 
nurses or enlisted men receive five dollars more per month than 
the men of the line. 

Then there is the Signal Department ; the men of this part of 
the service are enlisted telegraphers. They have charge of 
balloons and have codes of signal, such as heliograph, flags, and 
different colored lights for night signaling. They also have 
charge of telegraph and telephone lines, as used by the army. 
They, also, are organized in companies, their method of pro- 
cedure being the same as that of other branches of the service. 
The army as a whole or as a military body, has a commanding 
general or chief of staff. His assistants are major and brigadier 
generals, who rank as commanders of departments, di\7isions 
and brigades. Everthing is done systematically and according 
to rank, from commanding general down to the private in the 
rear rank. It is necessary for red tape in every department, for 
no good results would be reached if all did not work as one. 

We had been to the canteen or post exchange and purchased 
towels, soap and other toilet articles ; for these do not come under 
the government issue, as such articles as these together with 
tobacco, and cigars are considered as luxuries, and the govern- 
ment supplies only articles of necessity. I also purchased a 
wash basin, but this article proved to be a poor investment. I 
took my purchases to the quarters and placed the basin under 
the head of my bunk, the springs of which fastened with a sort 
of hook, for convenience, in case one wishes to remove them. I 
then left the quarters for a few minutes and on my return, 
decided to spread my blankets out and rest a while, as it was in 
the evening. Some one had carefully slipped the front end of the 
springs away from the head of the bunk, and of course when I 
threw myself on the bed I went on down to the floor, turning 
mattress and springs over on top of me. ]\Iy basin was under 
front end of the bunk and was caught by the springs, doubling its 
sides together. Of course all began to shout and laugh and I 
found that the best thing for me to do was to laugh too. So I 
straightened things out and lay down. This joke I found later 
on was practiced upon every "Rukie" who came to the company. 
It never hurt any one and yet caused quite a lot of amusement. 



22 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

I was never caught in that way again, for I was always careful 
thereafter to examine my bunk before lying down. Several more 
recruits were soon added to the list, and clothing, rifles and full 
equipments were soon issued. 

The daily routine of garrison duty was planned monthly, and 
now we were being gradually instructed in this. Our first ser- 
geant ordered us to report to the drill sergeant. This man had 
been in the service thirty years. He was a splendid looking 
soldier. We now had our uniforms and of course one could see 
at first glance that we were unfamiliar with the drill. My uni- 
form fit me in no wise except the cap. Our drill instructor 
marched us outside for our first lesson. I was almost a head taller 
than my companions, and was placed on the right of the squad. 
There were four of us in this squad. I had no idea as to my 
companions' feelings, but for myself, I felt exceedingly awkward 
and uncomfortable, as he tried to place us in correct position ; 
standing with body erect and resting evenly on both hips, slightly 
inclined forward, head erect, eyes straight to the front, arms 
hanging naturally at the sides, little fingers touching op- 
posite seams on trousers, heels together, and toes turned out- 
ward at an angle of forty-five degrees. Our company had not 
turned out yet for regular drill, so the boys were nearly all 
spectators that day. He then placed us about two paces apart 
to instruct us in physical culture drill. We swung our arms to 
front, then to rear, raised legs up, then down, arms horizontal to 
front, then again to rear. These movements were easy to ac- 
complish, and we got along well in the first part of our drill. 
Then he began on the facings, — right face, left face, about face. 
It was then my trouble began. I was very awkward, and when 
he gave command about face, I pitched forward, almost landing 
on my face. My instructor was very patient at first and suc- 
ceeded in getting me in correct position again for another trial. 
My next attempt was even worse than the first. He stood it for 
some time but soon began to lose patience at my unsuccessful 
attempts. Of course the spectators all laughed, and this seemed 
to irritate him the more. He scowled at me and finally exclaimed : 
"Well, you are one of the most awkward monkeys I have ever 
seen. You stand there all twisted up like a cork screw !" This 
was very amusing to the rest, but the humor of it did not reach 
me. I blushed furiously but went on, trying to execute the drill 



A Recruit at Fort Locan. 



23 



as he directed. Soon the clear notes of the Inis^le fell on the 
still air, and we were relieved of the presence of our amused 
spectators, as that was the call for the coin])any to fall in for 
drill. I felt very grateful and no doubt my companions experi- 
enced the same feeling, and our "rukie" drill continued, more 
satisfactorily to myself at least. As time went on I began to 
observe more closely and by the time we finished our two hours 
recruit drill, I began to learn something of the movements, and 




ELEPHANT ROCK. 



had a little more confidence in my ability to perform them. We 
were then dismissed until the afternoon when we were to have 
two hours more of drill. It went on in this way for a week or 
more — we were drilled in physical culture or setting up drill. 
Our meals here in the barracks were first-class, as we had a 
splendid cook and were regularly served in a large dining 
room. We breakfasted promptly at 6 :30, dinner was served 
at 12 :00, supper at 5 :30. The bugler who was on guard duty 
gave us the right signal at exactly the right minute, no one being 



24 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

allowed in the dining room or kitchen before or after meal time, 
except those who were detailed for duty there, as waiters or as- 
sistants in the kitchen. These were detailed by our first sergeant 
and worked under the instructions of first cook. I was informed 
one evening as we fell in for retreat, that I was detailed as 
kitchen police for the next day. I had no definite idea of what 
the term kitchen police meant, but thought that probably my 
duties were similar to those of a regular policeman. Next 
morning I reported to the cook and he soon explained clearly the 
duties I must perform. I rolled up my sleeves and set to work 
washing pans and dishes, which occupied my attention for about 
two hours. Then I pared potatoes and onions ; next I scrubbed, 
filling in the remainder of the day with duties one will find 
about any ordinary kitchen. 

It was now nearing the last of May and in the early part of 
June we were to have a field day. Competition by the different 
companies in all athletic sports was then to take place. Immed- 
iately after field day, which was to be on Saturday, the battalion 
to which our company belonged was to start on practice march 
to Colorado Springs, and remain in field there for six weeks for 
target practice. We "rukies" were progressing very rapidly 
now in our drill and looked forward with great anticipation to 
these events, which are welcomed with great pleasure by all the 
men, as it breaks the monotony of garrison duty, which grows so 
tiresome to the older men who have seen service and want a 
change. Of course this was all new life to us so we did not real- 
ize what it meant to the greater portion of our company. 

As we became better acquainted with the men we began to 
observe their characters and dispositions. About half of our 
company were Americans; the other half was made up of Ger- 
mans, Irishmen, Englishmen, Welshmen, Norwegians and 
Swedes. Of course these were all either citizens or had declared 
their intention to become such, or they could not have entered the 
army. This element of the company seemed to be the most dis- 
satisfied. They grumbled, complained and cursed when things 
displeased them. Of course some of the Americans did the same 
thing. There were divisions among the men in the company. 
Those who drank sought that kind of company among the men of 
the regiment. Those who liked athletics and exercise mingled to- 
gether. Those who were lazy and cared for nothing but ease 



A Recruit at Fort Logan. 25 

were classed together. When going for a stroll, one was seldom 
seen going alone, but usually in groups. To men not familiar 
with this sort of life these things seemed much more prominent. 
We had now been with the regiment long enough to learn both 
company and individual duties. Most duties were announced by 
calls of buglers or trumpeters. Each company had two of these 
musicians. 

We also had a regimental band which consisted of thirty mem- 
bers, who when they chose were able to furnish us with excellent 
music. Every morning we were awakened by first call of the 
bugle, followed in order by reveille and assembly, the last named 
of which was meant for all members of each company to fall in to 
answer roll call. Then we opened ranks, took our distance and 
for fifteen minutes executed a drill in physical culture. This was 
followed by mess call; that by sick call. All who were sick, had 
their names placed on the sick report and a non-commissioned 
officer went through the quarters asking if there were any who 
wished to go. Then he would call out "sick, lame and lazy." 
and start for the hospital where those who were indisposed were 
examined by the doctor. If they were seriously ill they were 
placed in the hospital and treated. Those who had a sprain or 
other slight ailment were excused from all duties, and marked 
"quarters." Those that only pretended illness were marked 
"duty," and sent back to perform them. Men oftentimes were 
out "for a time," as they called it and of course on return felt the 
result of their imprudence. They would sometimes try to "beat" 
the sick report and the doctor was compelled to watch keenly 
for these fellows. Our next call was fatigue ; this was for those 
who were detailed for such duties as hauling wood, unloading 
coal, etc. Usually these men appeared with very long and sober 
faces, as this was distasteful to most of them. 

Then came drill, and the old men in the service, who had gone 
through this day after day, and year after year, would grumble 
not a little when the time came for this. But after all they 
seemed to be attached to the life for some had been in the service 
for almost thirty years. At the expiration of that time they can 
retire from the service on three-fourth's of regular pay and al- 
lowances. After drill we had recall from drill which gladdened 
the hearts of the boys, for after being dismissed they could be 
seen going into quarters with happy faces, for the drill for that 



26 Around the World with Uncle Sa 



M. 



day was ended. The next call was for guard mount ; this guaro 
duty is kept up in time of peace as in time of war. This duty 
which must be done constantly, consists in walking post or guard- 
ing men, who have been fined and sentenced to imprisonment fo. 
disobeying orders, or for some breach of military discipline. Men 
who have found military life distasteful, sometimes desert, and 
if captured are sentenced to imprisonment for terms of from one 
to five years, and hard labor. This guard duty is conducted by 
an officer of the day, who is commander of the guard. Officer of 
the guard then executes and sees that all of his instructions are 
obeyed. Sergeant of the guard and corporals, divide the guard 
and allot the men their duties. Guard dutv is carried on strictly 
and a display is made of guard mount. Men before being passed 
for guard mount must be neat, clean and respectable, their arms 
in perfect condition. The neatest, cleanest, best looking member 
is chosen as orderly for the commanding officer. There is much 
competition for this duty as it is considered the easiest part of 
guard duty. After guard mount we had recall from fatigue, 
then mess call for dinner. 

The afternoons were usually free from duties except once or 
twice a week when we had parade, if the weather permitted. We 
then had first call for retreat, assembly and roll call, then retreat. 
The men are formed at parade rest, the gun is fired, the flag is 
hauled down while the band plays the Star Spangled Banner, and 
the day's duties are over. Next is mess call for supper, then tat- 
too which means lights out in sleeping quarters. Our last call 
was taps ; all members who were not in bed at that time were re- 
ported absent to the officer of the day and later to their company 
commanders. Men who desire a leave of absence must secure a 
pass signed by the commanding officer and company commander. 
This is the daily routine of garrison life, which was followed 
at the Fort except Saturday, when we had inspection. Every 
part of the quarters and every part of our equipment were thor- 
oughly inspected by our company commanders ; and if not in 
first-class condition we received a reprimand. That was the only 
duty we had on that day. On Sunday there were no calls, except 
guard mount and church calls. Each regiment has a minister 
who receives the rank of captain, also same salary. He is called 
chaplain, and conducts all religious services. Those who desire 
may attend service, but none are compelled to do so. It is usually 



A Recruit at Fort Logan. ■ 27 

poorly attended, and I do not wonder at it, for in my experience 
with chaplains 1 found the majority of them uninterestinjj^ as 
ministers of the gospel, hut there were several exceptions, and 
these I found had hetter success. 

On the last day of each month we had muster. Every enlisted 
man was required to answer to his name and sign the muster roll, 
if he wished to receive his pay, and of course no one wanted to 
miss that part of his military duty. Pay day was considered a 
great day in the service when in garrison, and the paymaster 
arrived each month to pay the boys. He was always a welcome 
visitor, for thirteen dollars never seemed to stay long with most 
of the boys. They had all kinds of gambling schemes, played 
poker, faro, roulette and the old army game which is called "chuk- 
aluck." It only took the professional a short time to have the 
amateur's salary. Some of the men were not interested in these 
games, and they usually had spending money throughout the 
month. 

Muster day being over, the day selected for our lield sports 
soon arrived. Tents w^ere erected on the parade ground which 
lay north of the line of barracks. A large crowd had collected 
from the city to witness the feats. The winner to receive gold 
or silver medals. The company wdiich secured the greatest num- 
ber of points was to receive a trophy. The men of each company 
took a deep interest in this and always in proceedings of this 
kind stood together as though glued. My company had. one 
member who was an expert bicycle rider. A member of C com- 
panv had won first place in the bicycle race the previous year. 
Our man was to be a "dark horse" in the race. 

The men of these two companies had many disputes and 
quarrels about the matter. They even went so far as to bet on 
the result of the one mile bicycle race. On both sides of the 
barracks were high porches from which doors opened to upper 
rooms of the barracks. These ran full length of the barracks and 
were about one hundred feet long. A member of m>- company 
from an upper veranda had a dispute with several members of 
companv C. The dispute waxed warm, and they all became very 
much excited. The member of my company removing two 
twenty dollar gold pieces and one ten from his pocket, threw it 
out on the ground and said : "if you think your man is such a 
o-reat rider, cover that." If it had not been covered the other 



28 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

company would have felt disgraced, therefore they hustled around 
and secured the money to cover the wager. This was a peculiar 
trait of the companies, that when it came to company matters or 
even regimental, they all stood together as one man. Perhaps 
the training they received when recruits had an influence over 
them when it came to such matters. 

At noon the crowd had grown much larger. I was ordered by 
the first sergeant to report to the officer in charge as a member 
of the temporary guard, whose duty it was to keep people out of 
the way of the line of competitors.* It was with great pride that 
I put on my belt with shining bayonet, and white Berlin gloves, 
my rifle not being needed for this duty. I had improved wonder- 
fully since my first experience in recruit drill. This life seemed 
to fascinate me, drill came to me easily, after I had been instilled 
with the proper ideas which our old seasoned drill sergeant had 
given us. After polishing my shoes till I could almost see myself 
reflected in them I started up the walk toward headquarters tent 
on the parade ground. On the way I met my brother who was 
then living in Denver. He remarked on my improved appear- 
ance, but of course I did not tarry long with him as I considered 
my orders as my first duty, at that time, and therefore hastily 
went on to report to the officer in charge. The feats were as 
follows : 

One hundred yard dash, relay runs, runnihg broad jump, stand- 
ing broad jump, running high jump, punting sixteen pound shot, 
throwing sixteen pound hammer, riding feats in cavalry, potato 
race, obstacle race, hurdle race for cavalry and infantry, and two 
bicycle races, a one mile race and a five mile race. Also a one 
mile running race and a one mile walking race, heel and toe. The 
interest of my company and that of company C, were solely fixed 
on the bicycle race. That was the one topic for conversation. 
We had competitors in other contests but they were completelv 
ignored. 

The bicycle races were at the bottom of the program. The 
judges for these contests were officers from both cavalrv and in- 
fantry. All other events being over, we turned with eagnerness 
to witness the bicycle races. My company had been defeated in 
nearly all of the other contests. One had obtained first prize in 
the obstacle race. In this race each competitor was required to 
equip himself with regulation knapsack packed, blanket in a roll. 



A Recruit at Fort Logan. 29 

shelter half (or part of tent) packed so as to contain one suit of 
underwear, one towel, one cake of soap, one pair of socks, tooth 
brush, mess kit and guy rope, ammunition belt containing one 
hundred rounds, canteen and rifle. Then they were lined up in 
front of obstacles which filled a space of one hundred yards, and 
which consisted of a line of fences built across, large quantities of 
baled hay, army transportation wagons, field pieces, and barbed 
wire fences. The one who could successfully cross these and 
first reach the goal received first prize. A member of my com- 
pany was successful and won first place. In two other events we 
had a member who won second prize, and in another third prize. 

But now we were ready for the bicycle race. Everyone was 
eager and excited. They must start at the right point of the 
horseshoe, the goal being left point, nearly opposite starting 
point. These two points were about six hundred yards apart. 
Everything had been cleared away from the parade ground ; the 
spectators stood just beyond the goal. I was placed at the goal 
to prevent the crowd from surging forward at the finish. There 
was a line of guards along the track, placed about four paces 
apart. As I looked across I could see the riders already mounted 
on their wheels, being held in place by helpers. Crack ! 
went the pistol ; a shout went up from the crowd, and the race 
was on. Our member, who wore green tights and rode a green 
wheel, shot ahead like a flash, and set the pace up the grade to- 
ward the bend of the horseshoe. He soon passed the bend and 
started down the slope toward the goal. We could see that he 
was still in the lead. The man in brown, who was the member from 
company C. came close behind him. our company cheering like a 
band of Comanche Indians on the warpath. On they came, our 
man still leading and both pumping their wheels like mad. C's 
man would spurt forward now and then, which brought him 
even with the green rider each time. But our man, exerting 
every muscle, would forge ahead again. I have witnessed a num- 
ber of races but I think this was the most exciting one I have 
ever beheld. As they came near the tape, our man shot across 
like a gust of wind, winning by a a half wheel's length. Our 
men caught him up, wheel and all, and all rushed to E's quarters 
howling like a pack of wolves. 

In the next race, the five-mile contest, little interest was mani- 
fested, the man in green winning by one mile. 



30 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

The day's events were over and the visitors had all departed, 
leaving the boys to discuss the day's happenings to themselves. 
C company had won the trophy, as they had gained the most 
points in the day's competition. But we were far happier, for we 
had staked all our hopes on the one race. We knew that in other 
things their men were superior to ours. As we sat on the ve- 
randa that evening, the boys from C company called across to us, 
"C company won the trophy!"' It was quickly taken up by our 
boys, who shouted back, "Yes, but E company won the dough!" 
Most of the boys had placed their wager on the bicycle race and 
of course had won. 

The next day was Sunday, and on the following day we were 
to start on our march to the target range, eight miles south of 
Colorado Springs, and at the foot of Cheyenne Mountain. The 
velocity of the new rifles was so great that we must have a differ- 
ent background than when the old rifles were in use, — they being 
45 caliber, the new, 30 caliber. Therefore, the penetrating power 
of the new was far superior to the old. 

First call was given and we were lined up on the drill ground 
in field dress, campaign hats, and leggings. There were four 
companies and one troop of the Second cavalry. Our command- 
er was the Lt. Colonel. Ranks were opened, and we were in- 
spected by the commanding officer. Very close attention was 
given to our shoes, for each man was compelled to wear govern- 
ment issue, and those who had on shoes purchased by themselves 
were compelled to remove them at once, for in time of war men 
would be unable to secure other than government issue. There- 
fore, our commanding officer thought it wise for the men to wear 
these on practice march. This was rather severe, for men who 
had difficulty in securing footwear made of even the softest leath- 
er which could be worn by them with ease, suffered untold agony 
in these army brogans, which are roughly made. They very 
much resemble ploughmen's shoes. Some years later a better 
shoe was introduced in the army, but of course that had no bear- 
ing on this eighty mile march over hot, sandy roads in which we 
wore the brogans. After inspection, we closed ranks, formed in 
columns of fours, and started on our journey. The band led us 
as far as the end of the reservation, playing "The Girl I Left Be- 
hind Me," to cheer us on our way. We marched for fifty min- 
utes, then received a ten-minute rest. We were not tired vet, for 



A Recruit at Fort Logan. 



31 



we had only gone three miles. Attention was sounded again and 
once more we started on our journey, passing through the vil- 
lage of Littleton and then on toward the south. 

The day had now become exceedingly vvarni, the sun shone 
directly on us and the roads were sandy and dusty, and we were 
glad to rest at the next halt. We filled our canteens from the ir- 
rigating ditches along the side of the road, in which the water 
looked clear and sparkling, hut contained a large amount of al- 




A GKOL'l' UF AKMV Bb'GLEK; 



kali. I noticed that the older men drank very little, but we re- 
cruits drank our till. Hour after hour we marched onward. The 
grand old Rockies with their tall peaks pointing upward, lay to 
our right. I looked at them with awe and wonder, for these were 
the first mountains I had ever seen. Now my feet began to smart 
and burn and I began to think that there was too much 
shoe leather on them. The time between each halt seemed to 
grow longer, and to some of us it seemed that we had made a 



32 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

very long march already. As we continued our march, some of 
the boys fell out of line, and waited for the ambulance to pick 
them up, the rest of the boys laughing and jeering them. 

Our columns marched as in time of war, with advance guard 
and rear guard, the cavalry taking the latter point and acting as 
flankers. The country we traveled through on this first day was 
dry, hot and barren, and a small part of it only (that near the 
Fort) being irrigated. About one o'clock we came to our first 
camp, which was fifteen miles distant from Ft. Logan ; it seemed 
to most of us that we had gone fifty miles instead of fifteen, for 
we had carried full equipment. We went into camp alongside the 
water tank of the Rio Grande Railway. We formed in com- 
panies, stacked arms, broke ranks and pitched our tents. We 
were hot, tired, hungry and thirsty. Each company had a wagon 
in which were stored rations and extra bedding. Now the men 
who were detailed to unload these came forward, and pitched the 
officers' and hospital tents. 

The cooks soon had a fire going and in a very short time we 
heard mess call, and we were soon drinking coffee and eating hard 
tack and bacon. Everyone was soon in better spirits. Guard 
details were formed and soon the guards were walking post out- 
side our camp. The afternoon we had to ourselves and most of 
the men spent the time in securing water in which to bathe the 
feet, and looking for blisters. If these are not given careful at- 
tention while marching on sandy roads, they become very sore, 
and cause a great deal of annoyance. So on the advice of the 
older men, we bathed our feet, rinsed our socks, put on clean 
ones which we carried with us, and dried the others in the sun 
for the next day's march. In the evening, supper, and then re- 
treat and then our first night's experience of camp life. 

I had noticed early in the evening that some of the older men 
did some digging inside their tents, which puzzled me at the 
time, but later in the night when I was unable to sleep, I realized 
that the ground was very hard and that if I had done the same 
my hips would not have become so tired. At last I fell asleep 
and was awakened in the morning by first call and reveille. 
Breakfast over, we broke camp, and were off for another day's 
march, which was yet harder than the first. We next camped at 
Castle Rock, a low mountain on the top of which is a rock resemb- 
ling a castle. On the next day the cavalry, which had preceded us 



A Recruit at Fort Logan. 33 

by a few hours, was to choose a site for a sh.ani Ijattle. They w'cre 
to figure as the enemy and at about ten o'clock our advance guard 
located them. They were on a high hill to our right, which was 
covered with underl)rush and small pines. I'lank cartridges were 
issued to us for our mock war, we were formed into line of skir- 
mishers and very cautiously advanced toward the enemw We 
had not gone far when we received a volley from them, and were 
forced to return and try Hank movements. z\fter a very exciting 
battle we went into camp for the night. We had now become 
hardened and did not become as tired as on the previous days. 
We next passed Palmer Lake, which is at a very high point on 
the edge of the Rockies, or divide, as it is called. At one end of 
the lake the water flows north, at the other end south. There 
were large hotels here, for this is a summer resort on the Denver 
and Rio Grande railway. Beyond this we passed Elephant Rock. 
When seen at a distance this rock is a perfect image of an ele- 
phant, trunk extending to the north. We camped here at night, 
just beyond the village of Monument, which derives its name 
from two large rocks at the foot of the mountains resembling 
monuments. Our next was a dry camp for we could scarcely se- 
cure any water at that place. Then we passed on through Colo- 
rado Springs to the foot of the Cheyenne Mountains, where we 
were to be in camp for a month. 

On this last day of our march, while loading our company 
wagon, I sprained my ankle. I still continued marching, though, 
as I knew if I waited for the ambulance the boys would laugh 
at me. My ankle was swollen so badly for a few days that I 
was compelled to report at the hospital tent, was marked ''quar- 
ters," and was olY dut\- for a few days. Rut still the boys had 
their fun about it, telling me that I told the captain I had sprained 
mv ankle trving to walk military. Here we received the large 
Siblev tents, in which fourteen men can be accommodated in (Mie 
tent. These were placed in straight lines, each company having 
a double line of tents, at the end of which were placed head- 
quarters tent, hospital tents, etc. We filled our straw mattresses 
and were soon very comfortably situated. Our targets were 
soon placed in position and we were then ready for practice. For a 
few davs we iiad preliminary practice that we might become ac- 
customed to the use of the rifles. A record was then kept of the 
points made by each man. If the shot pierced the center, the 



34 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

mail was allowed five points ; if within a certain radius of the 
center, four points were allowed; further out three points, and, 
if at the extreme edge, two points. Men who receive the highest 
score are classed as sharpshooters and given a silver badge ; next 
highest is considered first class, and below this, common. In 
this way, when good marksmen are needed, it is not difficult to 
select them from each company. We remained here at target 
practice about five weeks. We found this to be a beautiful place; 
a fine point for beautiful scenery. Cheyenne Mountain was di- 
rectly in front of us ; a little to the right. South Cheyenne Canon, 
which extends to the southwest. This canon has per- 
pendicular walls between which flows rapidly a clear, cold 
stream of water, containing large numbers of speckled mountain 
trout. As you journey on through the canon for several miles, 
it begins to widen slightly and you soon approach the Seven 
Falls. Steps have been erected here which extend from the bot- 
tom to the top of the falls, which is probabl}- more than a thou- 
sand feet high. After journeying past the falls and a little 
further on, the walls of the canon disappear and the mountain 
side is covered with tall pine trees, bushes, and flowers. Further 
on you come to the intersection of two mountain streams, where 
a woman who had once visited this beautiful spot, requested her 
friends to bury her. There you will find her grave, which is 
covered with a large mound of rocks, surrounded by a small iron 
fence. It is certainly a beautiful and peaceful resting place. 

Then if you follow the stream to your right for a short distance, 
you will soon reach a path which crosses a low horse back at the 
top of which is situated a small miner's cabin. Here, at the 
time of our visit, there dwelt a man and his wife, miles away from 
other people, in this solitary place. He was prospecting ; had dis- 
covered a lead, and was tunneling and following its course in 
hopes that he would discover gold there. He took us in and ex- 
plained the situation to us, and I thought I would not care to take 
the chances that he did. It seemed to me to be a monstrous un- 
dertaking, this blasting away in the solid granite. 

As we descended the mountain side, we came to North Chey- 
enne Canon, and as we approached it, turned to look westward. 
The picture which met our gaze held us for a moment spell- 
bound, for this was one of the most beautiful landscapes we had 
ever seen. Artists have t'-ied to picture such scenes on canvas, 



A RECRUIT AT I'oKT LoC.AN. . 35 

but no hand can ever portray a scene like this as you gaze upon 
it in the afternoon sunshine. At the l)ottoni of the slope begins 
North Cheyenne Canon. This is directly opposite South Chey- 
enne Canon, the low mountain or horse back intervening between 
the two. The walls of this canon slope gradually down to the 
bed of the stream with beautiful pine groves on each side. From 
here a roadway leads to a beautiful timber valley, where the 
wealthy residents of Colorado Springs have beautiful summer 
cottages. After passing through the valley we passed a large 
corral where hundreds of donkeys or burros are kept for the use 
of visitors, who come to this region, and do not care to walk 
through the canons. After passing this we came to a slope on 
which is built a large casino. From this point a street car line 
extends to Colorado Springs, which is eight or ten miles distant. 
The casino is a large structure, where the residents of Colorado 
Springs go to while away the hours in gambling. This resort is 
called Broadmoor. Just beyond this a short distance lay our 
camp. 

Here, just before returning to the fort, our commanding officer 
issued passes to us, so that we might visit Colorado Springs, Gar- 
den of the Gods, Manitou Springs and Pike's Peak. We decided 
to start in the afternoon and ascend Pike's Peak by moonlight, 
and arrive at the summit in time for the sunrise next morning. 
At two o'clock that afternoon we boarded the street car for Col- 
orado Springs. This we found to be a beautiful city of 35,000 
inhabitants, and as we stepped off the car and looked directly 
west, we observed the grand old mountain from Pike's Peak Ave- 
nue. Here we boarded another car for the Garden of the Gods, 
and Alanitou Springs. We arrived at the Natural Gateway, and 
entered the wonderful garden, where we stood for a time gazing 
at Balance Rock, wdiich weighs tons, and resting on the small end, 
looks as if it might be easily moved from its position by a touch 
of the hand. We would have liked to spend days in examining 
the garden, but we dared not tarry long, as our time was limited ; 
so we hurried onward, reaching the beautiful village of ]\Ianitou 
in the evening. Here we found magnetic, iron, sulphur and soda 
springs. Large bottling establishments here were engaged in 
bottling the water from these springs and shipping it. The vil- 
lage is situated near the Cave of The Winds, which contains a 
natural organ, with long, slimy pointed rocks hanging downward 



36 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

through which the wind whistles ; the sound resenihlcs that made 
by playing- an organ. After visiting the curious little cave, we 
were ready to start on our journey up the peak, which is 14,000 
feet above sea level. We had our haversacks, canteens and tin 
cups and decided to walk to the summit that night. We followed 
the line of the cog railway which runs to the summit, and is oper- 
ated by means of a cog wheel running on cogs in the center of the 
track. We started at 8 :30 p. m. The moon had not yet risen, 
the time for its appearance being nine o'clock. We proceeded 
slowly, for we could not see plainly, which retarded our progress. 
We were glad when the moon began to lighten up the slope, and 
we could distinguish objects around us. and were enabled to scale 
the steep places with less difficulty. When we had gone three 
miles on our way, we passed a large hotel. Another three miles, 
and we were ready for lunch. We were now near the timber 
line, so we gathered enough wood to build our fire, over which 
we prepared our cofi:'ee and ate our sandwiches. 

It was now eleven o'clock, and we had covered half of the dis- 
tance, but the real climb was yet before us, for from here on to 
the summit the ascent is very steep. As we moved on we were 
obliged to incline our bodies forward and we soon reached the 
timber line, above which the peak is barren. Now we began to 
notice the mountain rats, which scurried across our path. They 
resembled other rats in every way except size, being about the 
size of a woodchuck. They were not at all afraid of us. As we 
went on, several of my comrades thought they saw a mountain 
sheep, but we could not tell as the light was not strong enough 
to determine. We passed a sharp curve in the railway, the road 
turning almost at right angles. Here we stopped to rest, as 
breathing had become difficult. We looked far down below us 
and saw a small lake whose water glistened like silver in the 
moonlight. We started on our way again, but did not go far 
between rests. One of the boys became very sick, for it was now 
growing cold and we had no overcoats with us ; each time we 
rested we became chilled. Climbing now became difficult and we 
were very tired, so we began to wish for the summit to appear. 
Time slipped by rapidly, and at half past two we arrived at the 
top of the peak. Our comrade had grown worse by this time, 
and when we reached the railway platform he fell prostrate ; his 
eyes rolled, and we were much alarmed. Gathering him up we 



A Ri'CKuiT AT Fort Logan. 37 

proceeded to carry him to the liotel, which was near at haiuL 
There we each paid twenty-five cents for admittance, Init we 
gladly entered the building, for we were very cold; the platform 
on which our comrade had fallen was covered witli frost. We 
gathered around the warm fire and obtained a cup of coffee for 
our sick comrade. 

Here we waited until time for the sun to rise. As the skv in 
the east grew pale, other visitors began to arrive from Cripple 
Creek. They had ascended the peak on horseback. I noticed 
that everyone appeared very pale, not being accustomed to that 
altitude. Presently it grew lighter and pink tints seemed to 
shoot across the eastern sky, soon followed by the sun himself, 
which seemed to move so rapidly. This was certainly a wonder- 
ful view of the sunrise and worth our long, weary climb. The 
clouds were below us and looking eastward toward the sun, ap- 
peared like landscapes. 

We now began to examine the top of the peak. The men at 
the hotel pointed out to us the direction in which the city of Den- 
ver lay, and remarked that on a clear morning they could observe 
the city, which was seventy-five miles away. They also pointed 
out to us the mound of small boulders where a small girl was 
buried, who had wandered away from her parents and had been 
attacked by mountain rats; she had been so badly injured by 
these that she died from the injuries they inflicted on her, and 
was buried near the spot. 

We were now ready for the descent, and as we moved rapidly 
down the railway we passed scores of people who were trying to 
reach the summit in time for sunrise. We were not long in 
making the descent, and soon arrived at Manitou, where we 
boarded a car for Colorado Springs, and from there to camp, 
where we arrived very tired and sleepy. In a few days we were 
on our way back to Fort Logan, where we arrived in due time, 
and relieved the battalion in the barracks, who then started on 
their journey for target practice. Life went on in the usUal way 
at the barracks; we were not long in finishing our recruit drill and 
were now considered as one of the boys. 

Once each year the city of Denver held a carnival called the 
Mountain and Plain Festival, which usually lasted one week. 
One day of these festivities was called military day, and we were 
to head the procession ; so here, several months after witnessing 



38 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

my first great parade, I participated in one myself, a full fledged 
American soldier. It was with great pride that I marched past 
the spot where I had previously witnessed the boys in blue march 
by. 

I had now been in the service over fourteen months, and one 
day, while standing in the amusement room, our company ser- 
geant appeared in the doorway and approached me with paper 
in hand. As he handed me the paper, he said, "This is yours." 
After looking it oyer I savy it was a warrant for promotion to 
corporal in my company. This surprised me greatly, and I 
hardly knew whether to accept or not, but 1 soon found that I had 
no choice in the matter. It created some jealousy and consider- 
able comment, for there were many in the company who had 
served for years. I performed the duties assigned me as well as 
I knew how. 

Another year passed by and we again journeyed to the target 
range, where a department competition was conducted. All the 
sharpshooters in this department were assembled, and we wit- 
nessed some excellent shooting contests. It was late in October 
when we again returned to the barracks. 

We had now grown tired of drill, parades and guard duty, so 
one day in January a comrade and myself made application for a 
two months' furlough. It was granted, and a few days later we 
were on our way to Pueblo, Colorado. We secured employment 
there in the works of the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company. One 
evening after returning from work we became very much excited, 
for as we glanced over the daily newspaper we saw in glaring 
headlines— "The Maine Blown Up; War With Spain Certain." 
A thrill ran through us. No one in this place knew that we were 
members of the U. S. Army, as we were very careful that no one 
should learn our secret. 

We eagerly watched the papers from day to day. Each even- 
ing we had heated discussions with the men at the hotel, some 
declaring that the president ought to declare war at once, proceed 
to Cuba, clean out the island and then on to Spain. Men under 
the stress of excitement will make many unreasonable demands 
in things that should be left to the discretion of those who have 
had experience in warfare and who have devoted their lifetime to 
the study of such problems. Others thought the president should 
be impeached, never realizing what it means to be engaged in 



A RiiCRuiT AT Fort Logan. 39 

warcfare, or. the loss of life, sorrow, and expense caused thereby. 
Thousands have been slain at times who scarcely knew why they 
were engaged in fightino-. But this fighting spirit and thirst fo'r 
blood seems to be in the blood of all men since the foundation of 
the world. 

Our time of vacation had almost expired, so early in March 
we started for Fort Logan, presented our furlough there and 
reported for duty. We received a warm welcome from the boys, 
for they were all glad to see us back. Excitement was very great 
here, for our commanding officer had received orders to be ready 
to leave on a day's notice. Our former commander had been 
promoted to rank of general and lieutenant colonel was now in 
command. We were all engaged in packing our belongings. All 
articles were packed away except those needed in field service. 
It was thought that war might be declared at any time, therefore 
we were held in readiness. One day we received an order from the 
war department to leave the next week for New Orleans. Every 
one was in high glee. I felt somewhat troubled for my captain 
had decided to leave me in charge of all company property stored 
away at the Fort, and I was eager to leave with the rest of the 
boys. At last he chose two privates from ni}- compauA- and had 
them detailed for this duty, and I felt highlv elated. 




CHAPTER III. 

FAREWELL TO FORT LOGAN^WAR IM-CLAKKD — FROM COLORADO TO 
TAMPA SAILING TO CVH.\. 

N the morning of April 18th, ]<S98, was the time fixed 
for our departure. The sun shone bright and clear ; 
the time for our train had almost arrived and we 
were all in high spirits. They had planned to have 
us march to the Santa Fe railroad crossing, one and 
one half miles east of the barracks, and there board the train for 
the South; but the citizens of Denver had learned of this ])lan. 
They sent a petition to our department commander who then 
resided in that city, asking that we give a farewell parade. This 
regiment had been stationed there so long and had participated 
in so many parades, that they wished to see the regiment once 
more before departure. So on due consideration he finally ac- 
Cjuiesced. We formed in companies on the parade ground, then 
marched around the officers" line for our farewell. Here wives 
and families of the officers were watching with tear dimmed eyes, 
as we marched by. We turned at headquarters building and filed 
down to the depot where our train was in waiting. Here were 
the families of many of the enlisted men who were married while 
in the service, and whose families resided in the village of Logan- 
town. Our train was in two sections ; the first carried the first 
battalion or first four companies, the second section carried the 
second battalion or last four companies. The first section started 
on its way, and ten minutes later the second followed. 

yiy company was in the second section, as we belonged to the 
second battalion. Amid the tears and waving of handkerchiefs, 
the train pulled away from the platform ; for man}' wives and 
children had looked for the last time on the faces of their loved 
ones. We soon passed Military Park, and in a short time steamed 
into the vmion depot in Denver. Thousands of people had gather- 
ed here on the principal street to bid us farewell. \\'e formed in 
line, passed up the street then crossed over and started down 
another. Excitement ran high, and the streets were strewn with 
flowers, and crowds cheered as we marched bv, manv crving out 



42 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

''Give it to them boys!" "Remember the Maine!" We marched 
on not looking to right or left, for we were under discipline when 
on parade, as well as at other times. In about one-half hour 
we were back and aboard our train. Here thousands passed 
through the train to shake hands and bid us farewell. This over, 
we again started on our way, passing southward along the 
Rockies. This was along the line we had marched to the target 
range ; but how different everything seemed now. We soon 
reached Colorado Springs where thousands had gathered around 
the depot. Many of us stepped off the train to get a last glimpse 
of that grand old mountain — Pike's Peak, which appeared in the 
distance like a sentinel. We passed on toward the South and a 
few hours later were in the city of Pueblo. My comrade and I 
who had been here on furlough slipped away to the hotel, while 
engines were being exchanged. Here we met a number of ac- 
quaintances to whom we gave army souvenirs. They were much 
surprised and laughed heartily when we told them that the time 
we had spent there was only on furlough. We were soon back 
and aboard our train, and moving away across the plains of 
Colorado and into the state of Kansas. 

After passing through the state of Kansas, we entered Okla- 
homa and were traveling the fertile Indian Reservations which a 
few years before were opened to the public. We traveled for 
miles and miles across thousands of acres of wheat which was just 
heading; past large farm houses, new villages which no doubt 
had sprung up in a few weeks, then through the Comanche 
Indian Reservation. We passed the large Indian schools, and 
when we reached a fine timbered tract to our left, the train stopped 
and we stepped off to greet a white haired old Indian chief. White 
Eagle, who shook hands very warmly. He had perhaps led his 
band on many raids and no doubt the scalps of many had dangled 
from his belt. Now, he was our friend and wished us well in 
our undertaking. The engine whistled and we were on our way 
again passing through the beautiful and fertile reservation that 
our government had given to the red men for their hunting 
ground. It seemed to us unwise to leave this fertile tract lie waste, 
overgrown with weeds and brush. We passed many tepees where 
the red men had built their abode of poles over which was 
stretched ragged pieces of dirty old canvas. We often passed 
ponies to which were attached two poles, the ends of which 



FARi;\v];r.i. to Fort Lccan. 



43 



dragged along on the ground and on which was fastened the 
papoose and their worldly belongings. Along toward nightfall 
we left the reservation, passing out into the white man's country. 
We were soon passing villages where we observed bands of cow- 
boys, who fired their pistols, tossed their sombreros and cheered 
wildly as we passed by. When we arrived in Guthrie we learned 
the cause of this demonstration. War had been declared ajrainst 




NATURAL GATi:\\A\- TO THE GARDEN OF THE GODS. 



Spain. Here our commanding officer received a telegram from 
the Secretary of War, who ordered us to proceed to Chickamauga 
Park by way of Kansas City. 

We passed back over part of the way we had just traveled, and 
the next morning found us in Kansas City. Here we were trans- 
ferred to the Kansas City, Ft. Scott & Memphis railroad. We 
were to camp and be mobilized on one of the great battlefields of 
the Civil War. At Kansas City many thousands of people 
gathered to see us ofl:'. We were soon crossing the low swampy 
region in the state of Arkansas, passing through small villages 



44 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

which were built up on poles or piling along the railroad embank- 
ment. We wondered how these people could manage to subsist 
for as we went along we could only observe a few chickens and 
razorback hogs. As these animals walked along we were puzzled 
at how they balanced themselves for their heads were the largest 
part of them, and it seemed as though the nose would strike the 
ground and prevent them going further. It looked to me as 
though it would be far easier for them to walk backwards. There 
was excitement all along the way and as we whirled by the cities 
and villages it seemed as though every one had turned out to cheer 
us on our way. Everywhere we heard the shout, "Remember 
the Maine." We soon crossed the Mississippi and arrived in the 
city of Memphis. Here we received a cordial welcome. All 
sorts of refreshments were offered to us. In the morning we 
arrived in Corinth, Miss. Here one of the many battles of the 
Civil War had been fought, and the man who later became com- 
mander of the Union forces had figured in that battle. 

Many of the Confederate veterans welcomed us here, and gave 
us bullets and slugs, which they told us they had gathered from 
the battlefields. A few days later we arrived at Chattanooga, 
passing through a part of Tennessee where we beheld old southern 
mansions, around which stretched the broad fields of cotton. 
They appeared as in former days when the negroes worked under 
the hand of force. Looking southwest of Chattanooga we ob- 
served Lookout Mountain, where the battle above the clouds was 
fought. On the summit of this mountain now stands a large 
hotel, and tourists may ascend and descend the mountain by rail- 
way. We now took the Georgia Central railway and proceeded 
southward and soon arrived at Lytic Static>n on the western edge 
of Chickamauga Park. Here we fell into line, marching off in 
columns of fours, till we came to the edge of a bloody pond, where 
we went into camp, directly between Lytle Hill, where General 
Lytle was killed, and Widow Glen's cottage, where the com- 
mander of the L^nion forces had his headquarters. Thousands of 
soldiers were now camping on the old battlefield. 

Every branch of the service was represented here. Here we 
received news of the naval battle in Manila Ray. This came as a 
great surprise for no one had dreamed of the hornets' nest the 
first naval victory of the Spanish-American War had stirred up. 
Previous to this, thousands had been oblivious of the existence 



FarewelIv to Fort Logan. 45 

of the Philippine Islands, for they occu|)y a very small place on 
the map of the world. When the news (^i this victor}- was an- 
nounced in camp, bands played and the boys cheered. We were 
separated in two divisions and brigades. Our camp was Camp 
General George H. Thomas, named for the liero of Missionary 
Ridg-e, and called Rock of Chickamauga. We spent hours ob- 
serving the places of interest, which were all marked by monu- 
ments and large tablets on which were given minute descriptions 
of the principal engagements. Large towers have been erected 
upon elevations in the park and when you gain the top of one of 
these you can command a view of the entire park. The ])ark con- 
tains many driveways, and all underbrush has been cleared 
away, making" this an ideal camping ground. Our regiment was 
placed on war basis and this meant hard work for every one. 
Recruits began to arrive and we had much difficulty in drilling 
these men and preparing them or service. A rumor reached 
camp that a great Spanish fleet had arrived at Cuba, and was then 
in the harbor of Santiago. We were very eager to proceed to 
the front and believed that we would be the first to embark for 
Cuba ; for it was now conceded that that island would be the seat 
of war. 

The recruits who arrived at camp were principally Americans ; 
most of them from Boston. Philadelphia, Denver and other large 
cities. I now received my promotion as sergeant, and much of 
my time was devoted to drilling recruits. My first drill 'sergeant 
was now regimental color bearer. He had served in the Civil 
War and many Indian campaigns. We now noticed a change in 
most of our officers, in their attitude toward the men. They 
seemed nearer to them and could not be so precise in the execu- 
tion of man\- duties, with the exception of a few, and no doubt 
their military training was the cause, and they were not 
favorites with the men. A number of them had received nick- 
names and when we heard these, knew for whom they were 
meant. After we had been stationed here for twenty days, a 
part of the volunteer army which had been organized and sworn 
into service, was ordered to this point. These men represented 
almost every state, and numbering about 300,000 were mobilized 
in different parts of the L'nited States to be drilled and placed on 
a militarv footing, as it was believed that a large number of men 
would be needed for service in Cuba. One morning in the latter 



46 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

part of May we marched to Ringold, Ga., where we boarded a 
train for Tampa, Florida, thus making more room at the park 
for the volunteer army. We crossed Buzzards' Roost, a very high 
and rough hill, which had received its name during the time of 
the Civil War. 

We followed the same ground which at that time had been a 
running fight, and after marching for several hours over hot 
sandy roads we arrived at Ringold, which place still bore marks 
of the battle fought there. We could see where the shrapnel and 
shot had pierced the sides of the buildings. It seemed that no 
improvements had been made in the village since the war. East 
of the village were rough hills, where we were informed that hard 
fighting and bushwhacking had been done. Our trains were 
waiting for us here and we boarded them and were soon on our 
way south to Tampa. We shortly reached Atlanta, and passed on 
through Georgia into Florida. Here was pointed out to us the 
Suwanee River, from which the song by that name is derived. 
The country through which we traveled was now becoming more 
tropical in appearance; there were jungles of thick undergrowth, 
magnolias, and many curious plants that most of us never had 
seen before. We were eager to catch a glimpse of the alligators, 
but failed to do so until we reached Tampa, which we found to 
be a sleepy and cjuiet old southern city. Our camp was located 
about two miles west of the city. Here we were busy for several 
days erecting our tents and putting things in order. We were 
along side the Southern railway, which extended to Port Tampa, 
about twenty-five miles distant. 

Troops began to arrive at Tampa from all sections and the 
town seemed alive with soldiers. In every direction could be seen 
the dotted lines of tents, which were occupied by the regular 
soldiers. Men from other cities now came here to start gambling 
places, and other devices to attract the soldiers. Every induce- 
ment they could think of was used to drain the soldiers' pocket- 
books, and in most instances the boys were easy victims. Alli- 
gators were sold on nearly every street in the city. These were 
placed in boxes or cages and sent north to friends for souvenirs. 
One day about twelve members of my company, including myself, 
decided to take a sail across the bay to Port Tampa, at which 
place we wished to observe the fitting up of the transports which 
were to convev us to the island of Cuba. We therefore secured 



Fark\\i;i.i, to Fort I^ogan. 



47 



passes and started for the docks, early in the morning", where we 
secured a small sail boat with two masts, and two experienced 
men to sail it, for our captain did not want us to undertake sail- 
ing the vessel alone. We were soon on our way, tacking from one 
side of the stream to the other. It seemed like a long rlistance 
out into the bay, but as we came in full view, how beautiful it 
looked, to those of us who had never seen a large bodv of water. 




ARMY SIBLEY TENTS. 



The wind set the water in motion, causing beautiful ripples to 
appear on its surface and far ofif in the distance could be seen 
white sails which were flapping in the wind like large winged 
birds. As we neared the open bay the wind became stronger, and 
a wonderful sensation stole over us as our little craft glided so 
swiftly and smoothly down the bay. To us this was a novel ex- 
perience, for we had never experienced pleasure of this kind be- 
fore, and our sailors to whom the little bark responded so readily, 
guided her across the bay, the wind filling her sails which bulged 



48 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

out to their full capacity. We passed by the wreck of an old 
vessel which had been run ashore by her crew a few years before ; 
it having- been infested with yellow fever. We sailed for several 
hours, before coming in sight of Port Tampa. Here we sighted 
vessels of every description. Men of war, built of steel, which 
caused us to wonder how such masses of iron could possibly 
float. From its sides extend the large guns, pointing their noses 
outward, and which caused us to wonder again how these could 
withstand the recoil from these when fired. 

As we neared the docks we also observed the large mercantile 
vessels which were also constructed of iron. Men were busy 
placing temporary wooden bunks between decks on these vessels. 
There were dozens of these all being prepared in the same man- 
ner. We ran alongside one of these, tied our boat and stepped 
out upon the dock. An old fashioned vessel had entered just at 
that time and tied up. The name of this vessel was the Gussie. 
She had just returned from Cuba where she had delivered a 
supply of arms and ammunition to General Gomez. On board 
were two companies of the First United States Infantry. They in- 
formed us that they were not successful in their first attempt to de- 
liver the ammunition to the Cubans. The Spaniards had discov- 
ered their intention and fired on them from shore. Thev pointed 
out many places on the sides of the vessel where the Mauser bul- 
lets had pierced her cabin deck. She had then proceeded along 
the shore and after signaling had come in communication with the 
Cuban soldiers, and landed their cargo in small boats, and after 
accomplishing her mission had returned to Port Tampa to be 
fitted up as a transport. We walked to the end of the pier where 
we saw men carrying meat, clothing and other supplies aboard 
the vessels. We also noticed a group of dark complexioned men, 
small of stature, who were talking very earnestly and rapidly, and 
with many gestures and much shrugging of their shoulders. 
We could not understand a word of their language and on inquiry 
found that they were Cubans who had been driven from the island 
by the severe and cruel treatment of the Spaniards who had fol- 
lowed their inhuman mode of warfare for several vears. These 
men were returning to General Gomez, who was then in the 
province of Pinar del Rio. 

Many of the wives and children of these men were here to bid 
them farewell, and doubtless hoping for the day that would carry 



Farewkll to Fort Logan. 49 

them back to their native island. It was now time for us to return 
to camp and we returned to the boat and were soon on our way. 
feeUng very much pleased with our first sail. \Vc were now as- 
signed to the Fifth army corps, which had received orders to em- 
hark as soon as practicable and sail for Cuba. We were to land 
near Santiago to assist the nav\ in capttu'ing the Spanish fleet, 
which they had bottled up in the harbor of Santiago. We were 
formed in divisions and brigades. My regiment together with 
the Twelfth and Seventeenth were placed in second division, third 
brigade. Our division and brigade commanders were both vet- 
erans of the Civil War. having continued in service after the 
close of the war, and had also served in Indian campaigns, as had 
also these regiments that were placed together in the third 
brigade. 

We received several hours drill each day. ( )ur officers were 
busv securing servants, for in time of war they could not have 
enlisted men to attend to their wants. In time of peace they paid 
certain enlisted men small salaries for iheir work about the 
quarters which must be attended to. The men who i)crformed 
these duties for the officers were called dog robbers, because the 
boys said they ate up the scraps and crumbs that were left at 
meal time, in that way robbing the officers' dogs of their portion. 
The cause of the ill feeling toward these men lay in the belief 
that they carried news from the company to the officers and it 
seemed to the other men that their attitude was that of servants, 
and therefore this work was never popular with the men. In the 
lield it was hard for the officers to get enlisted men to do this work 
for thev could not be regularly detailed for such duties. Some of 
the officers secured men to embark with them as servants, but the 
majority had to attend to their own wants. ( )ur companies each 
had the full number of men and company 1 in our regiment had 
been organized. Commissioned officers were transferred from 
the other two battalions. While yet in camp a long train carry- 
ing a new regiment of cavalry began to unload near our cam|). 
This regiment had been organized in the west, and were called 
Rough Riders. The men in this regiment were principally cow- 
boys, from the western plains and were mounted on 1)ronchos. 
They went into camp almost opposite us, and across the railroad. 
They were fully equipped with arms and ammunition and spent 
whole davs in drill. Thev made wonderful progress too. for they 



50 Around the; World with Uncli: Sam. 

told us that they had only been organized a month before, and 
now fifteen hundred miles from the place at which they were 
sworn into service, they were ready to embark with us on the 
first expedition to Cuba. 

It was believed that a few volunteer regiments — the Seventy- 
first New York, Second Massachusetts, and First Volunteer Cav- 
alry or Rough Riders? together with the Regular Army would be 
sufficient troops for this expedition. While in camp here a large 
number of the men would gather around the Tampa Bay Hotel 
each evening to listen to the concert given by the band, that place 
being the headquarters of the commander of the Fifth Army 
corps. The grounds surrounding the hotel were very beautiful, and 
it was very pleasant to listen there on moonlight evenings. On the 
evening of the sixth of June we heard the general call, our tents 
were ordered taken down, and we boarded a train bound for Port 
Tampa, where we arrived next morning at sunrise. We marched 
out on the pier, where six companies of my regiment boarded a 
transport with brigade headquarters. The remaining three com- 
panies were sent aboard the chartered boat Decatur H. Miller. 
On our boat there was scarcely room to accommodate one half of 
the men who had boarded the boat. Men were scurrying every- 
where on the boat, looking for sleeping quarters in every nook 
and corner. Some had secured hammocks and these were strung 
up in all parts of the main deck, as there were not enough tempor- 
ary bunks to accommodate them. I was very fortunate myself as 
four sergeants from each company were allowed berths off the 
saloon or dining deck. On the lower deck were placed three 
hundred and fifty army mules, which kept up a continual roaring 
and squealing. Some of the boys remarked that we would have 
battle before starting for every one was dissatisfied with accom- 
modations. Company cooks were to prepare their meals in the 
mess galley, which was only large enough to accommodate the 
cooking for boat's crew, and was now to accommodate three 
hundred extra men, and this caused much discontent and poor 
meals were served. It was an interesting sight to see the boys of 
each company mess kit in hand moving along in line, to receive 
their portion of the rations. 

Cornbeef, beans, tomatoes, hardtack and cofifee one meal; the 
next beans, tomatoes, hardtack, cofifee and cornbeef; the next, 
tomatoes, hardtack, cofifee, cornbeef and beans. This was our 



pAREwErj. TO Fort Logan. 



51 



menu for the next twelve days, and this we received reguhirly 
three times each day, and of course we enjoyed it very nuich 
when we had begun to get used to it. All around us boats were 
embarking for the island and two days later we backed out of the 
harbor and got under way. amid the loud cheering of our com- 
rades, and continuous playing of the band. We were to proceed 
across the bay and out into the gulf, and there await the re- 
mainder of the fleet. The boats which composed it were num- 




PALMER LAKE, COLORADO. 



bered from one to forty-nine. It was necessary to have a large 
convoy of men of war to escort us, for otherwise we would have 
been at the mercy of the smallest gunboats or torpedo boats, which 
could have raised havoc among us, sending us all to the bottom ; 
for our boats carried only heavy freight of human passengers. 
We were traveling along at a very slow rate when we were over- 
taken by a United States torpedo boat which ordered us to return 
to Tampa, to our great surprise, and causing us to believe that the 



52 Around tiik Wori<d with Uncle Sam. 

war was ended. But when we returned we were informed that a 
small Spanish fleet had been reported in the Gulf of Mexico, and 
it was necessary for the navy to investigate before we were al- 
lowed to proceed. We returned to the dock ; the mules were un- 
loaded but our quarters were to be on the boat. Here we spent 
several days, the boys passing away the time by bathing in the 
bay or wandering along the shore. We would have gladly wel- 
comed the drill now. for we were cooped up like chickens. We 
were not allowed passes and were limited to docks and Picnic 
Island which was a short distance form the main pier. ]\Ien 
covered these places in groups at all hours of the day, telling 
yarns, playing jokes, and inventing all sorts of schemes to while 
away the time. One afternoon the mules were again brought 
aboard, and we knew this meant departure, and a cheer went up 
as we saw the transports filing away from the pier. We were 
not long in crossing the bay, and took our place in line ; our boat 
being number li). We towed behind us a large lighter which 
had been secured to aid us in landing on the island. 

This fleet of sixty-five vessels made a grand spectacle. The 
battleship Indiana was to lead the convoy ; the cruisers, gunboats, 
torpedo boats and torpedo boat destroyers were placed along side. 
At dusk we were out of sight of land, torpedo boats dodging here 
and there acting as scouts. These boats were very small ; not much 
of their top was visible ; some could attain the speed of 35 knots 
an hour, at a rate of one and one-fourth mile per hour on land. 
Thus they could travel at the rate of more than 40 miles an hour. 
There were about 11), 000 men in this expedition, which included 
almost all of the Regular Army. Foreign countries had sent 
military attaches who were on board a fine passenger steamer, 
with the general in command. The cavalry, with the exception 
of one troop that was to act as messengers and mounted orderlies, 
were to proceed without horses in the same manner as the in- 
fantry. 

The weather throughout the voyage was very mild, which ac- 
counted for the small amount of seasickness. Within two days 
we were passing Dry Tortugas, a point otT the southern coast of 
Florida ; a small island which contains a naval station, and on 
which fresh water can be obtained, the water being transported 
from Key West. We passed to the north of Cuba, the Bahama 
Islands on our left. A good many of the boys were now sick but 



Faui;\\ KM, To ]m)kt Locax. 53 

no extreme cases. We soon came in si.^lit of Cnl)a. keepin,^ miles 
to the north. 

The weather was now extremely hot, and the stench which 
arose from the nnile qnarters was terrihle. Tliese were all loose 
in the hold, and kept up a contimial kicking- and sqnealing-. 'i'hc 
men all became anxions to land, some vowino; that thev would 
never again hoard another transport. 'Phis hoat had heen a 
cattle freighter and had heen fitted up in about two weeks time 
for our use. The water which had been taken on at Port Tam|)a 
was warm and scarcely tit to drink. We usetl salt water for bath- 
ing and as we had no salt water soap, had a trying time to keep 
clean. Our faces became shiny and greasy. The boats were kept 
together with ditificulty as we neared the windward ])assage. 
which flows between Cuba and Haiti and through which we 
must pass along the eastern coast of Cuba into the Carribean .Sea. 
It was impossible now to keep us together for it was windy 
and we had entered the rainy belt, receiving showers every few- 
hours. As we rounded the southern coast of Cuba, the lighter 
wdiich we had in tow became separated from the boat and was 
lost. The next morning when we awoke there were no other 
boats in sight. We had strayed away from our tleet. A while 
after daylight we noticed a man of war a])proaching us. and the 
captain who had been observing the ship informed us that it was 
a Lnited States gunboat. The commander ordered our captain 
to join the fleet at once. As we neared the rest of the fleet w^e 
noticed that they were nearly all l}ing at anchor. We were not 
far from the coast, and soon heard the report of heavy guns. 
This came from the direction of Elnora Castle, which was being 
bombarded by United States gunboats. The navy had sent an 
old merchant vessel into the harbor to blockade it and prevent 
escape of the Spanish fleet ; the men who performed this work 
were captured and it was thought w^ere held prisoners in this old 
castle on the bluff. We dropped anchor and awaited orders to 
disembark. 






CHAPTER IV. 

LANDING AT BAIOUIRI OUR FORCES MARCH TO LAS GUASI.MAS — 

THE BATTLE OE EL CANEY — CAPTURE OE SANTL\GO. 

FTER waiting a day before Daiquiri, we noticed large 
columns of smoke ascending from on shore. At 
this little village an iron ore dock extended out into 
the water, there being large iron mines located near 
the village. All were anxious to land, as confine- 
ment on these vessels w^as very trying. On the morning of June 
22d, thousands of eager eyes watched the shore, hoping for the 
command to land. We knew that there were hardships awaiting 
us, and that some of our number would never return, but we 
were only kept in suspense waiting here. Several gunboats passed 
between us and the shore, and in a short time we heard a 
booming of guns which caused great excitement among the boys. 
They were bombarding the shore where we were to land. A 
Spanish blockhouse was situated upon a high hill to our right, 
above the pier, and one of the gunners aboard one of the gun- 
boats was trying his marksmanship on this. He was soon suc- 
cessful in his attempt, for after placing several shots very near, 
he at last sent one directly against it, and we saw a shower of 
dust and dirt thrown into the air. The sailors aboard our vessels 
were now lowering life boats and wdien the bombarding ceased 
we ran as near the shore as possible, our vessel anchored and a 
gangway was placed from the boat to the water's edge. We were 
taken on board the life boats, and a small steam launch which 
the navy furnished gave us a line and towed us in to shore, which 
was one mile distant. While this was being done, the hold had 
been opened on the sides, and the mules were dropped into the 
water, allowing them to swim to shore. They seemed to be as 
eager to depart from their unpleasant quarters as we from ours. 
As we neared the shore there were many there before us, and 
we noticed our flag floating nearby from the blockhouse which 
had just recently been bombarded. Our captain formed us in 
company and marched us on to join our regiment, which had 
preceded us a short distance. Six days' rations were issued to 



56 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

each one of us, and we were given to understand that each must 
do his own cooking- from now on. We must now remain at the 
place to which we had marched until our brigade was formed, 
and this plan suited us very well as we wanted a little time to ob- 
serve our surroundings. The smoke we had noticed was partly 
from the town of Baiquiri. The Spanish had fired the barracks 
before departing from the small garrison there, and upon learning 
of our intention to land had set fire to almost everything in sight. 
The Cubans now began to make their appearance, and very piti- 
ful they appeared to us, — hungry and ragged, some carrying 
guns, others machetes, others wooden guns ; nearly all with bare 
feet and bare heads. When we looked at them they shrank back 
like hunted animals, and a great feeling of pity swelled up in our 
hearts for them. We now knew that the stories that we had 
read and heard of the Spanish cruelty to the Cubans must be true. 

With such evidence as this before us we no longer doubted. 
The land around us lay waste, nothing in sight in a state of 
cultivation. And the only thing we found that was eatable was 
cocoanuts, which lay around in immense piles ; and we being 
fond of these, helped ourselves. Some of our number ate too 
many and became very sick with cramps, which caused the re- 
mainder of the boys to be more cautious as to what they ate. 

Our rations had all been landed now and on receiving ours we 
departed from Baicjuiri, and began our march toward Siboney 
and Santiago.. It was late in the afternoon and we did not ex- 
pect to proceed far on the march that day. Our course led up a 
slight rise and over a trail surrounded by undergrowth of 
tropical varieties, past cocoanut trees, royal palms, and many with 
which we were not familiar. After marching for several miles we 
came to another rise in the trail which was clear of underbrush 
and near a stream of water. Here we halted for the night, every 
one bustling around trying to find wood with which to build a 
fire, where we might cook our coffee and bacon. After supper we 
pitched our tents for the night, and the rain began to fall in 
torrents. My "bunkie" and I found a small elevation on which 
we placed our tent so as to prevent the water from standing in it. 
But neither one of us could sleep. I felt as though I was sur- 
rounded by nettles. I thought perhaps I had come in contact with 
poison oak — a small tree which grows to the height of ten feet, 
and which has glistening green leaves. The Cubans had warned 



Landing at Baioimki. 57 

us of these, for when one conies in contact with them, tlie skin 
becomes irritated and swollen and this spreads to all parts of the 
body. I asked my comrade how he felt and he replied that he 
was miserable and could not sleep. After a while he arose and 
started a fire beside an old lo":, placed his poncho over his 
shoulders and bent over the tire. 1 lay inside the tent watchinj:,^ 
him. He sat there with hands and arms folded and as he dozed 
and nodded I sometimes feared his large liook nose would strike 
the fire. This would waken him still, but directly he would doze 
oE again. The burning on my body increased so nnich that 1 felt 
sure I had been in contact with the poison oak. The rain con- 
tinued to pour and along towards three o'clock I asked Jack why 
he did not come and lie down. He replied, that he would remain 
outside if he drowned, that he believed the blamed thing was 
haunted. I began to think so myself, for as I rubbed my bodv 
it smarted and burned. I could not stand it anv longer, so I 
crawled out and joined Jack by the fire. He informed me that the 
pricking and burning on him had ceased. I scratched around the 
log where he had built his fire, found some dry leaves and small 
limbs which I threw on the smouldering fire. As it blazed up 
brightly I opened my shirt and rolled up my sleeves. On exam- 
ination I found I was covered with thousands of little red ants. I 
removed my clothing, placed them under the log and took a 
shower bath Jack soon followed my example, but he had not so 
many on him for he had been sitting out nearly all night. As 
soon as daylight came w'e made an examination of our camping 
place and found that we had pitched our tent on an ant hill. The 
boys all came round to see the cause of the disturbance and quick- 
ly pronounced it the first battle in Cuba. lUit my comrade and I 
were fortunate after all for we had a good fire over which to pre- 
pare otir breakfast, and then loaned it to the other boys, who were 
unsuccessful in their attempts to build one. After daylight the 
rain ceased and in a short time we continued our march over a 
trail or pathway, toward Siboney. The underbrush was some- 
times so thick that those wdio were mounted were compelled to 
dismount and lead their horses along the pathway. Our blankets 
were soaked, and these together with the six days' rations, one 
hundred rounds of ammunition, rifle and canteen were very 
burdensome to us, and we continued at a slow march. 



58 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

On the way we noticed large numbers of land crabs, some of 
which measured a foot or more across the back. They became 
very much frightened on our approach and as they scrambled out 
of our way their joints cracked and squeaked — as though in need 
of oil. We noticed lizards and birds of many varieties that we 
had never seen before and bugs and beetles that squeaked, and 
which kept up a continual din. After several hours' march we 
reached the top of the hill which was free from vmderbrush. 
Passing down the other side of the slope we entered a beautiful 
grove, containing many trees of varieties which were unknown 
to us. They stood in rows, like ranks of uniformed soldiers. 
This pleasant place had once been a part of a beautiful planta- 
tion, the owner of which had probably been loyal to the Cuban 
cause, which resulted in the destruction of his property. 

We learned that these trees were royal palms. They some- 
times attain the height of sixty feet and resemble an umbrella, 
the long palm leaves spreading out at the top ten or fifteen feet 
in circumference. Four or five feet from the roots is a large 
bulge on the trunk of the tree which somewhat resembles a 
barrel or hogshead, the color of which is almost white. After 
marching some distance farther we entered a cocoanut grove, 
where we halted to camp for the night. The order to camp here 
was welcome news to us. We spread our tent halves out to 
dry and orders were given to the men, not to proceed far from 
camp. We then began to observe our surroundings. The tall 
trees, the trunks of which were free from limbs except in the top, 
very much resembling the royal palm, and the fruit bunched to- 
gether at the top about forty feet above our heads, from which 
position they could not be secured except by climbing the trees, 
this being a rather difficult task. Some of the fruit was scat- 
tered over the ground but this was stale, and some of the nuts had 
burst in two, the shell and husk sprouting ncAV trees. 

About one hour and a half after halting a messenger came 
galloping into camp, his horse foaming and he himself laboring 
under great excitement. He inquired for General Chaffee, our 
brigade commander and on approaching that officer handed him a 
rough piece of paper. A bugler was summoned and the call to 
arms was given, and we were hustled into line. The cavalry 
division which had landed at Siboney and preceded us toward 
Santiago, had been ambushed and were being cut to pieces, and 



Landing at Baiquiri. 59 

we were to reenforce thcni. We passed tlironj^h Sibmicy where 
the Second Massachusetts were busily ene^a.^ed in intrenching 
themselves. They guarded the Siboney landing. Pushing rapidly 
on we heard volley after volley fired in the distance. There were 
Cubans along the trail we were now following, cutting poles and 
brush to fill in the swamps so our column could pass over. Our 
men were endeavoring to keep together in the line of march, some 
who were almost breathless throwing away knapsacks and other 
articles so as to be able to keep up with the brigade which was 
now on the run. Our companies were kept together in good 
order. The firing now became plainer and our brigade halted for 
a short rest; men cut open tomato cans and drank as much of 
the contents as they could, passing the remainder to the other boys 
so as to be relieved of a part of their burden. The bugle once 
more sounded forward and our colinnn started on double time, 
our commander leading on horseback. The firing had almost 
ceased now but we rushed on, some of the men tumbling out of 
the line, overcome by heat. The trail now became narrow and 
our companies proceeded in twos. A small stream was reached 
which flowed between two steep hills, when the command to halt 
was given by the bugler; blanket rolls and rations were ordered 
removed and our companies were ready for action. All was quiet 
in front of us, and we marched again to the foot of a hill where 
we halted. The Spaniards had been driven back, and the first 
battle, that of Las Guasimas, was over. 

Our rations and other articles were again secured and we 
started to follow the retreating Spaniards. We soon came to 
the field hospitals which had been erected upon the bank of a 
small but swift stream, and where the doctors were busily engaged 
in bandaging and dressing wounds amid the moans and groans of 
the wounded men. Some who had been overcome by the heat 
were raving mad. To the right of the trail the dead were placed, 
upon a green slope. They numbered twelve or fifte-en, and had 
been among those who led the advance. We learned that the 
Spaniards were in ambush there, but had been located by some 
Cuban scouts. As the force advanced the trail became narrow ; 
they allowed twenty-five or more of the advance guard to pass by 
before they opened fire, killing and wounding many of the Ameri- 
can force. The troops were then formed, but the dense under- 
growth which surrounded them prevented a direct advance against 



60 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

the enemy, who held their position on the steep hillside covered 
with underbrush and dense tropical growth. After flanking them 
they drove them from their position, the Spaniards retreating to- 
ward Santiago. Our brigade now advanced up this slope, and 
was not long in reaching the top. Before us spread a broad table- 
land where skirmishers soon advanced examining all places where 
it was believed the Spaniards might be located. After marching 
one and one-half miles, we came to the opposite slope of the hill, 
where as we glanced slightly to our left we came in full view of 
Santiago. No Spaniards in sight. Here on the edge of this 
plateau outposts were placed and here we went into camp for 
the night, several miles ahead of our main force and in plain 
view of a portion of Santiago, which was perhaps eight or ten 
miles distant. 

The cavalry division remained behind where they had been 
ambushed, taking care of their wounded and burying their dead. 
The little tableland on which we camped for the night had once 
been a plantation, but now lay waste, covered by tall grass, weeds 
and underbrush. We were in a favorable position against attack. 
The slope below us was steep and the paths which led down 
were narrow and rocky. Far ofif below us extended a beautiful 
valley in which we could see the ruins of a plantation. Here we 
remained for several days until the remainder of the troops had 
moved up and gone into camp. One evening a short time after 
this we broke camp and marched in the direction of Santiago. 
The edge of the valley into which we advanced was covered bv 
thick underbrush and tall trees. Our entire force moved into the 
valley to prepare for the advance toward Santiago and El Caney. 
Our rations were brought by pack mules for it was impossible to 
forward them with the army transportation wagons. The Cubans 
were busily engaged along these trails cutting away the under- 
brush and our field batteries of artillery soon began to arrive, fol- 
lowed by ambulances, and then later by the transportation wagons 
with supplies. These moved very slowly and with great diffi- 
culty on account of the daily rains making the roads almost im- 
passable. It was much easier to carry the supplies with the pack 
trains, as four or five men could handle a pack train of fifty or 
seventy-five mules, very easily; each mule was able to carry 500 
pounds. The leader of a pack train has a bell placed around its 
neck and is led bv a man mounted on another steed. If the rest 



Landinc; at r>.\i(jiMKi. 61 

of the animals stray away ivom this train the sonnd of the hell 
guides them back to the train; in this way they are easily kept 
together. These animals passed over the rough trails with ap- 
parent ease. 

The headquarters of General Shafter. cnnimander of the ex- 
pedition, were now moved to this place, accompanied by scores of 
reporters and military attaches. Everything was placed in readi- 
ness for a great battle. One morning shortl\' after this, niv com- 
pany received orders to roll up tents and fall in. W'e marched 
out beyond camp and were soon following the trail. There were 
several Cubans with us, also our brigade commander. We fol- 
lowed the stream that flowed at the foot of the hill, for about one 
mile. Then we halted and outposts were placed at the intersection 
of two trails, one of which led to Santiago, the other toward F,l 
Caney. Several Ctibans remained here also, as they understood 
the lay of the country around us. On the road leading to Santi- 
ago the outposts were ordered to halt no one, but fire immediately 
on any one who came from that direction. On the other trail 
however we were to be careful, as Cubans were located in that 
direction and scouting parties were sent out and returned from 
that direction. In camp here, we must be very careful about our 
fires. The company was some distance back from the out])osts 
who were relieved every four hours. The rain continued to fall, 
and owing to the very heavy downpour we remained on outpost 
duty here for two days. This is usually a disagreeable duty, for 
it is a strain on the men to be continually on the watch for the 
enemy. After two days we were relieved by company D of our 
regiment and we returned to the main camp, where we drew five 
days' rations. 

It was not necessary to again pitch tents as our division under 
command of General Lawton was to advance in the direction of 
El Caney, bivouac for the night as near to that place as possible 
and at daybreak make an attack on the place; then proceed to a 
small village several miles beyond, where the water supply station 
of Santiago was located. It was believed that if their water sup- 
ply was cut off the city could be more easily captured. At about 
four o'clock on the evening of June 30th, we marched out along a 
narrow road which passed through a rough and hilly section. 
About dusk a part of our division halted, our brigade continuing 
the march for several miles, where we bivouaced for the night — 



62 Around the; World with Uncle Sam. 

stacking our arms and lying down directly behind them. No 
fires were permitted as we were now only a short distance from 
El Caney. Sentinels were placed on the nearest elevations, and 
no one in camp talked aloud. Everything in camp was still. The 
second lieutenant of my company who was acting regimental 
quartermaster, had secured a mule which he rode when on the 
march. It was placed in a small hollow just a little to our right. 
We were all asleep and this animal broke away from the place 
where it had been tethered. After wandering around he had 
become frightened and came bellowing and roaring through the 
camp. This awoke us and frightened every one; the men made 
a dash for their guns. We all thought the Spaniards had made 
a charge on our camp, when some one called out, "hold on there ! 
its a blamed mule!" They captured him and again tethered him 
in the hollow, some of the boys threatening to cut his throat. 
Again all was quiet until three in the morning, when we were 
quietly awakened, ate our hardtack and cold tomatoes and were 
soon in line, following a narrow trail single file. We were soon 
strung out for miles. We crossed over hills, through small 
valleys and across small streams. Light in the east became 
stronger, and we could now distinguish large trees on the hills. 
These were covered with yellow fruit, which we learned were 
mangos. The doctors had warned us concerning this fruit. They 
somewhat resembled an apple, were juicy and had a large seed in 
the center. They looked very tempting as we passed along, but 
we were not permitted to leave the trail. It had now grown 
lighter when suddenly we heard a loud boom from the cannon. 
Capron's battery had opened fire on El Caney. 

Our pace quickened. We were to attack on the right. The 
long, thin blue line of men crossing the hills and twisting around 
through valleys must have resembled a huge snake making its 
way over the surface. We could hear the sharp crack of small 
arms mingled with the continuous roar of the artillery as we 
neared the place. When we came to a ridge we could see men 
in blue far off to our left on a knoll sticking their heads up over 
and firing. As we descended the slope of the ridge, our line ad- 
vanced in full range of a block house, which was located across 
a small ravine on the hillside to our right. As we came in view 
their bullets began clipping the leaves around us, but we continued 
our march paying no heed to this. The battalion of Cubans fol- 



Landing at Baiouiri. 



63 



lowing us was to attack this place and capture it, as it was be- 
lieved that would not be ditficult to accomplisii. As we passed 
along a 45 brass Remington bullet struck one of my comrades 
above the ankle shattering the bone and leaving an uglv wound. 
We halted for a moment to remove blanket rolls, blouses and 
rations, going on in our shirt sleeves. 




CAMP Al" i;kuAUM()(.)K DlklNC, DEI' AK lAl K M L(i M I'ETli I( i.\ . 



As we neared the foot of the hill the tiring became heavy. We 
could see nothing at which to fire, but noticed on the trees, large 
pieces of corrugated iron used to mark the range of the Span- 
iards. Under a large mango tree we found several dead, and a 
number of wounded. We had yet a small steep grade to descend 
where a little to our left was a large stone fort, over which 
floated the yellow and red flag of the Spanish. From the loop- 
holes just beneath it, bullets were pouring out like rain. Men 
w^ere dropping around us. We now came into an open space, and 
then we crossed a small stream. In this gullv one was not ex- 



64 Around tiik World with Uncle Sam. 

posed so much to the fire of the Spaniards. Along this stream a 
field hospital had been established and men were being carried in 
by the score. Our regiment was lined up and advanced up a 
gradual slope to a pineapple field, and we were again exposed to 
the fire of the Spanish. The Twelfth Infantry on our left was 
now firing volleys into the fort. We had come within about four 
hundred yards ; men were ducking behind ranges or anywhere to 
get out of the range of fire. It had become so terrible that one 
could not talk except by shouting. We crossed this pineapple 
field, gained the top of the hill and formed a line, along where it 
curved slightly to the west. Just across a small ravine on a low 
hill there lay El Caney, about two hundred and fifty yards distant. 
The buildings in this little village were nearly all constructed of 
stone and cement ; one looking over it could see temporary loop 
holes opened in the walls from which a heavy fire was pouring. 
Directly in front of us were two or three blockhouses ; the dirt 
was thrown up in front of these ten or fifteen feet high ; in front 
of that were intrenchments. We were ordered to fire at will, and 
it was certainly terrible the racket and roar this was creating. 

We could see nothing to fire at, except buildings and block- 
houses, for no Spaniards were in sight. The two other brigades 
of our division were attacking on our left, continuing nearly op- 
posite from where we were. We stuck to the top of the hill, lying 
prone; the Seventeenth Infantry to our right. Men were being 
carried back wounded. Every man was supplied with first aid 
bandages for the wounded and these were being used up rapidly. 
Our brigade commander would pass along with his field glass in 
hand, directing fire from time to time. There was no hope of 
charging, as barbed wire entanglements were strung in every di- 
rection in front of us, and it was certain death to any one who at- 
temped to pass over the line of the hill. No smoke was visible, as 
our ammunition was smokeless powder, as was also the Spaniards'. 
No one was noticing time and it was slipping away rapidly. Our 
artillery moved up closer and along in the afternoon a shell 
pierced the flag-stafl^ on the stone fort and the Spanish colors fell 
to the ground. They began racking this old fort with solid shot 
and shrapnel and it began to have an effect ; the fire had become 
weaker from that point. 

In the central part of the village was a church. Orders had 
been given not to fire on this, but there was so much sharpshoot- 



Landing at Raiguirt. 65 

ing- going on that tlie order was countermanded and the tire was 
directed against this cupola. And now we began to notice a few 
Spaniards dropping, but the tire w^as not quite so heavy. Soon 
the stars and stripes were waving from the fort, and a hltle later 
white fiags began to appear in the village. 

For a half hour our battalion had been firing volleys, for our 
ammunition- was running low, and we must take the ])lan that 
would bring the greatest results. At dusk the battalion to which 
we belonged was ordered back ofif the line. The tiring had almost 
ceased and we marched away to secure ammunition. 

We marched back until we met a pack train at the fork of the 
road, where we secured a fresh supply of ammunition and then 
proceeded on our way back toward El Caney. Near that place 
we passed the remainder of our regiment, which had captured 
several hundred Spanish soldiers. When we reached the battle- 
ground, five companies were left there to take care of the w^ounded 
and bury the dead. The rest of our division and brigade 
marched on toward San Juan hill, where there had been severe 
fighting all day. They had called upon Lawton's division to sup- 
port them and pr-event retreat. My company remained at El 
Caney. We soon had our guards out, and it was not long until 
all were ready for sleep, for we were almost exhausted. When 
we awoke in the morning, we seemed to be m a dream, for the re- 
sults of the previous day's battle were yet visible in every direc- 
tion. As we rubbed our eyes and looked toward the top of the 
hill we saw a line of men lying where our line of battle had been 
formed the previous day. About fifty bodies were lying there on 
the hill top and in the ravine below was the hospital, where sev- 
eral hundred wounded men were being cared for. Doctors and 
nurses were busy attending their needs. Men were at work build- 
ing a large trench on the hill, and when this was accomplished 
the dead were placed in it, side by side, a slip of paper with name 
of regiment and company was placed on them, they were then 
rolled in blankets, placed in the trench, and covered over with 
earth. This took almost all day. 

The dead in our company were Sergeant Jones and Privates 
Head, Sandburg, Vane, who was our company tailor, and To- 
manus, the barber of the company. Tomanus had acted strange- 
ly for more than a week before the battle. He had with him sev- 
eral fine razors, which, together with his other belongings, he 



66 Around thi; World with Uncle Sam. 

took one day to our lieutenant and told him how to dispose of 
them, remarking at the same time that he never expected to come 
out of the first battle alive. Lieutenant Nichols told him that he 
was only a little nervous, but Tomanus insisted that he was not 
afraid, but felt that his first battle would be his last. So here, 
when the American flag was raised on the old Spanish fort, he 
became excited, rose to his knees and began to cheer. A Spanish 
sharpshooter, from the cupola of the church in El Caney, shot 
him through the heart. The shot pierced the corner of his wife's 
photograph, which he carried in the left pocket of his blue army 
shirt. 

Our regiment suffered pretty heavily, having had forty-seven 
killed and one hundred and thirty wounded. After we had 
buried our dead, we began to explore the village of El Caney. 
The village was filled with dead and wounded Spaniards. The 
church was turned into a hospital and a detail of men from our 
battalion was sent with several doctors to bury their dead and care 
for the wounded. The village was full of Cubans — men, women 
children, who were half starved and half naked. The men were 
gathered up from around the village to help bury the dead 
Spaniards in intrenchments, around the blockhouses and town, 
from which places they had poured such a deadly fire. x\lmost 
everyone who had been in this garrison had been captured, 
killed or wounded. General Vera del Ray, who had been in com- 
mand, with his staft' of eight officers, were found at the edge of 
the town, dead. They had tried to escape, but had been shot by 
a volley from an American company. Some of the men who 
composed his staff were wounded in four or five places. 

Cubans were set to work at clearing up the streets and we oc- 
cupied the time in destroying the Mauser rifles and ammunition 
which we found. Many Spanish flags were found, but no one 
paid any heed to them, for we had very heavy loads to carry 
without trying to gather souvenirs. 

The severe climate had now begun to tell on our captain ; he 
acted queerly at times. A member of the company had captured 
a large Spanish mule, which the captain secured from him and 
loaded with souvenirs of every description. Some of the boys 
claimed that he even had a ]\fauser rifle tied to the mule's 
tail. One day the captain was missing, and several details 
were sent out to search for him. He was found about one mile 



Landing at Baic.uiki. 67 

beyond the town, near a Spanish hlockhoiisc, sitlini; with his hack 
against a tree, sonnd asleep, llis nnile he had tied to a small 
bush, after loading him down with all sorts of articles. He was 
almost sixty years old and the climate was too severe for him. 

On the morning of J«ly -h'd, we constructed stretchers from 
poles, blankets and shelter tents, to remove our wounded to a 
point about three miles from El Cane\-, which was as near as 
our ambulances and army wagons could approach to that village. 
The roads were impassable except by way of Cabcti and Santi- 
ago, but Spaniards lay between those points and 1",1 Canev. cut- 
ting off approach in that direction. It took all available men to 
hold San Juan hill at that time, so we were com|)elled to carry 
our wounded on improvised stretchers, to the point where ambu- 
lances Avere in w^aiting. From there they were conveyed to 
Siboney, where hospitals had been established. 

About nine o'clock in the forenoon we heard the booming of 
large guns, which sounded like the roll of thunder in the distance. 
This continued for several hours and then the sound died away 
like the passing of a thunder storm. We were unable to deter- 
mine what had happened, but thought that the navy had probably 
bombarded Elnora Castle, or had attempted to enter Santiago 
harbor. 

As time passed by we became anxious about getting our 
wounded away, as the Cubans informed us that General Pando 
was marching toward Santiago with six or seven thousand 
Spanish soldiers. We were not far from their supposed line of 
mafch and were liable to be attacked at almost any time. But 
if this occurred, we expected to hold them back by holding the 
old stone fort upon the hill. There were five companies, number- 
ing about 400 men. We had burned all of the blockhouses 
around the village, eight or ten in number. 

It took the help of every man in the battalion to carry the 
wounded to the ambulances. We arrived at the wagons at noon. 
There we learned that Cervera's fleet had been destroyed when he 
had attempted to leave the harbor. Every boat had been sunk or 
captured. Our wounded were placed in tbe ambulances and 
wagons and were soon on their way to Siboney. where they were 
to "be taken on hospital boats, bound for the United States. 
When all except ten or twelve had been placed on the wagons, we 
heard firing in the direction of El Caney, coming nearer and 



68 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

nearer. Our wounded became frightened, a line was formed be- 
hind them, and soon a company of eight drunken Cuban soldiers 
appeared. They were mounted on Spanish ponies and shouting 
"Cuba Libre" at the top of their voices as they passed. We felt 
like giving them a volley, but let them pass on unmolested, for 
they were going in the direction of Santiago, and we knew if they 
proceeded much further in that direction would soon meet with 
a volley from the Spanish guns. We finished loading our 
wounded comrades and then waited for orders. They soon came. 
We were ordered back to El Caney, which point we were to hold 
until further orders were given. We marched back and went 
into camp on the battleground, a strong guard being placed 
around the fort. Large flocks of vultures had gathered around 
the place ; they were perched upon trees and would sometimes fly 
so near that one could feel the air caused by the motion of their 
wings. They somewhat resembled the turkey buzzard, but were 
much larger. Dead bodies that had not been found in the under- 
brush were soon discovered by these evil looking birds, which 
gathered around these places in large numbers, fighting and 
squawking — making a hideous racket. 

A day or so after returning to camp, we saw^ a long line of 
people coming toward us from the direction of Santiago. Some 
carried white bundles of clothing, others furniture of every de- 
scription ; others came in carriages. These were refugees from 
Santiago. A truce had been agreed upon between the Spanish 
and Americans, and all non-combatants were permitted to leave 
the city. Thousands made their way to El Caney, which had 
now been thoroughly cleaned and was in a respectable condition. 

Here came the French and other foreign consuls, who estab- 
lished their headquarters in the village. All who came under 
their jurisdiction must be supplied with rations. They told us 
there was nothing to be had in Santiago and that the Spanish 
soldiers in that city were on half rations. This increase in pop- 
ulation in the village would sorely tax our commissary depart- 
ment, there being 20,000 extra persons to be fed. Up until this 
time we had been well supplied with every article which came 
in our list of rations, except salt. That had been overlooked in 
transportation, and soon bacon was at a premium on account of 
the salt it contained, many of the men eating it raw. After the 
refugees had arrived, two troops of the Ninth Cavalry came to re- 



Landing at Baiguiri. 69 

lieve us and we marched across the broad vahey to the foot of 
San Juan hill, and joined our regiment just beyond, on a low hill 
which sloped toward the Spanish intrenchments in front of San- 
tiago. Here we were supplied with picks and shovels and set to 
work digging large intrenchments, with approaches extending 
back toward our camp, which lay along the hill-side. These in- 
trenchments were drained perfectly dry. Sand bags were filled 
and it was not long until they were in first class condition. 

The Twelfth Infantry was intrenched on our left ; the Seven- 
teenth on our right. The hill on our right extended almost to the 
bay, thus partly encircling the city. Intrenchments were being 
made all around the slope of the hill, artillery being placed in po- 
sition one-half mile apart. The truce still continued. 

The Americans in the meantime were trying to persuade the 
Spanish to surrender, insisting that it was useless to try to escape 
from the city, being so completely surrounded. One of the 
foreign consuls brought his influence to bear upon the Spanish, 
backed by the Catholic priests, and every argument was used to 
persuade them to give up the struggle. In the meantime, how- 
ever, both Spanish and Americans were busily engaged in dig- 
ging intrenchments, and every point of vantage was fortified and 
implacements for artillery made. To our left and between the 
two lines stood a large tree, and there floated the flag of truce. 
Every day officers from both sides assembled beneath it, trying 
to arrange some peaceable settlement. Our camp and intrench- 
ments were now in very good condition. A clear stream of water 
flowed along the foot of the hill, from which we received our 
supply. 

On July 10th, we were ordered into the intrenchments, and at 
four o'clock a signal gun was fired, and soon amid the booming of 
cannon our regiment began to fire volleys against the Spanish 
trenches. The fire was not returned and a diligent watch was 
kept throughout the night. A battery of Spanish artillery lay 
between us and the city. The next morning they opened fire on 
us ; Capron's battery soon located them, and before an hour had 
passed, they silenced them. On this day very little firing was 
done except by the artillery, which continued to shell the city, 
assisted by the navy, which was eight miles away and which 
dropped shells in every part of the city. Re-enforcements began 



70 Around tiiE Woia.D with Uncle Sam. 

to arrive, consisting of volunteers. Our regiment was ordered 
out of the intrenchments, the First Illinois taking its place. 

As we moved out the Hag of truce was again raised. We 
marched about four miles to the right until we reached the San- 
tiago and San Luis railway; a part of the division continued to 
march toward the bay, but our battalion must dig intrenchments 
in the low, swampy region surrounding the railroad. This was 
a rather difficult undertaking, for each day we received heavy 
showers of rain. Our rations were diminishing rapidly, and men 
were searching every place for something to eat. I had to make 
several trips to brigade headquarters with my squad, before I was 
successful in securing rations, and then the supply was small ; the 
hardtack was first counted before it was passed to each man. The 
truce continued for several days longer, an.d during this time we 
received a visit from General Nelson A. Miles, commander of 
the army, who came to inspect our line of defense. He came 
with a large expedition from the U. S. It was decided that this 
expedition was not needed on the island, and they later em- 
barked for Porto Rico. It was believed that the Spanish would 
soon surrender, for we had control of the water supply of the 
city, from which we had cut them ofif. 

The evil effects of the campaign had now begun to tell upon 
the men of our regiment. Thev were suffering from the ex- 
treme changes of the weather, which occurred each day, usually 
a heavy downpour of rain, followed by the hot, glaring sunshine. 
Our position in the swamp, where we puddled in the water from 
day to da}-, did not improve us any. 

One afternoon a messenger announced the surrender of the 
Spanish. This was welcome news to us, but we were still kept in 
the intrenchments for fear they should change their view in re- 
gard to surrendering. On the morning of Jidy 19, 1898, we were 
marched out of our intrenchments, and amid the playing of bands 
and cheering of soldiers, the American flag was raised above the 
city, and the province of Santiago de Cuba had surrendered to the 
American armv. 




CHAFJ KR V. 

AWAITING OUR TRANSPORT — IIOMI'. AGAIN — SAILING I'OK MANILA 

KTER the excitement caused l)_v the surrender liad 
passed, our boys seemed to coUapse. Our camp 
was moved back several hundred yards to a shii^ht 
elevation and orders were issued to build bunks oft 
the ground. It was a ver\- easy matter to issue 
such orders, but to see that they were obeyed,, quite another thing. 
There were only two or three large axes and a dozen or more 
hand axes in the camp, but men were set to work with these, 
cutting poles. Sickness increased in camp, and a yellow fever 
doctor was sent for. After diagnosing several cases, he an- 
nounced that our camp was infested with yellow fever. ( )rders 
were given to break camp, proceed along the railroal until we 
reached Cabeti ; from there go into camp in the hills. Many of 
the boys could not stand the march, so were left there, and a tem- 
porary hospital was establislied. We bade our sick c(^mrades 
good-bye — it was the last time for some of them — and proceeded 
to the hills around Cabeti. 

We marched to the top of a long ridge, where we went into 
camp. \\'e now received large quantities of fresh beef and an 
abundant supply of rations. Large tents were brought out from 
Santiago and new khaki uniforms were furnished to us. The 
camp was in good condition, but sickness still increased. ( Hir 
regiment's loss was three and four each da}'. Many of the men 
had the fever, others malaria. 

Men who had been left at the hospital began to arrive at cam]) 
and told us of the suffering and deaths which occurred there each 
day. Some of the regiments had already departed for the United 
States, bound for :Montauk Point, where hospitals had been es- 
tablished, and the sick were to be cared for. \W^ eagerly awaited 
orders to embark, but were disappointed for many days. The 
two regiments, which with our own. formed our brigade, had 
been sent home, and it looked is if we were destined to stay on 
the island. Our captain became very ill, before the surrender, 
and was sent to Siboney hospital; ..ur first lieutenant had been 



72 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

wounded in the foot and a lieutenant from B company was placed 
in command. Hospital tents were placed near the camp and the 
sick moved there. The boys dreaded being sent to these, as they 
received very poor attention there. Men were detailed from each 
company to act as nurses, the hospital corps not being able to 
supply a sufficient number. 

All of the other regiments which had landed with the first ex- 
pedition, had now returned to the United States, and one day we 
received the order to leave. We were to take the train at Cabeti 
for Santiago and there board the transport bound for home. 

The following day we boarded the little flat cars which were 
drawn by a rough looking little engine. Everything was left be- 
hind, except rifles and ammunition belts. Our tents were to be 
destroyed. Before we had proceeded far, we saw hundreds of 
Cubans searching the tents for articles we had left. We passed 
our old campground, getting a view of the intrenchments which 
were alongside the railway, then of the Spanish trenches and 
blockhouses with all sorts of wire entanglements, but these were 
all deserted. 

As we entered the city we passed the guards of the immune 
regiments, which were stationed in all parts of the city. Many 
Spanish prisoners roamed about, waiting for boats to transport 
them home. They were very friendly ; many of them shook 
hands with us, making us understand that they were anxious to 
leave. The city was in a filthy condition and would require an 
immense lot of work to put it in good sanitary condition. We 
boarded the transport, Yucatan, and were to sail for home next 
morning. There were only half our number returning on the 
boat together, and a part of these were sick. As we moved out 
of the harbor next day our band, which now numbered only ten 
played Home, Sweet Home. 

We passed the Merrimac and a sunken Spanish vessel which 
men were engaged i^ raising. W'hcn we reached the mouth of 
the harbor we turned to look at Elnora Castle, high up on a rocky 
bluff, and over which floated the stars and stripes. The last ob- 
jects I remember seeing on the voyage were the wrecks of the 
vSpanish boats, and then I remembered nothing until I was being 
carried from the boat at Montauk Point, six days later. I had a 
very severe attack of the fever, but now began to recover slowly. 

Ambulances conveyed the sick from the boat to the hospital 



Home Again. 73 

and there we were placed under care of Sisters. We improved 
very rapidly, and after a week in the hospital, I made application 
for furlough, and in a few days arrived at my home in Eastern 
Ohio. There I was sick for several weeks, but with good care, 
soon began to improve. At the end of two months I reported at 
Columbus barracks, and received transportation to Fort Wayne, 
Michigan, which is along the Detroit river, in the suburbs of the 
city. There, early in November, I reported for duty. Our com- 
pany was small now, over half of the men being out on furlough. 

There were many recruits to be drilled, and soon we were busy 
again, drilling the new men and putting things in shape. We 
had a new captain, and new lieutenants. Our former captain 
had died at his home in Fort Logan, the climate and exposure 
in Cuba having been too severe for him. The boys of our com- 
pany were sorry to learn of his death, for we thought no com- 
pany in the army had a kinder hearted and better officer than our 
captain, Charles A. Worden, Company E, Tth U. S. Infantry. 

Our lieutenants were promoted and transferred to other regi- 
ments. 

Our regiment remained at Fort Wayne several months, and 
then companies were sent to different stations. Our company 
was sent to Jefferson Barracks, Missouri, where we relieved the 
Twelfth Infantry, with whom we had been in the campaign in 
Cuba. They were now ordered to the Philippine Islands, where 
trouble was brewing among the natives, they, having rebelled 
against American rule. Before the Spanish-American war was 
fully settled, our country was engaged in war against the natives 
of these islands. 

We remained in garrison at Jefferson Barracks until March, 
when our company was ordered to Fort Sheridan, Illinois, near 
the shore of Lake Michigan, and the city of Chicago. There we 
relieved the Fourth Infantry, which was ordered to the Philip- 
pine Islands. 

There I remained until May, when I received my discharge, 
having served my term of three years. I bade my comrades 
good-bye and returned to my home, where I visited a short time, 
i then journeyed to New York and on May 2Gth, 1899, re-enlisted 
in the corps of engineers at Albany, New York, where, with 
several others, I received transportation to New York City. 
From there we crossed to Willct's Point, Long Island, and found 



74 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

the battalion of engineers stationed there. I was assigned to 
Company B, first battahon, engineers. This company was being 
fitted for service in the PhiHppines. All men who had seen pre- 
vious service were assigned to this company. Much attention 
was given to pontoon drill, rowing pontoon boats, and building 
bridges. Very little of our time was given to infantry drill, as all 
had had experience in that form of service. 

On July ."ith, 1899, we received orders to start for the Philip- 
pines. Many of the boys had spent the Fourth over at New York 
City. On the morning of the fifth of July, we bearded a train at 
the Jersey City piers. We were to journey over the Chesapeake 
and Ohio railroad. We soon reached Philadelphia, then Balti- 
more, and then Washington, with the capitol and large dome, 
which we could see in the distance as we passed. 

At Richmond our train stopped for a half hour, thus giving us 
time to stretch our legs and freshen us for the journey before us. 
We then passed on through Kentucky and arrived in Cincinnati, 
the next day after dinner. There our cars were transferred to 
the Big Four railway and that night we were whirling away on 
our way to St. Louis. We had been given tourist sleeping cars, 
and were just as comfortable as if we had been sleeping in the 
barracks. 

We awoke next morning in St. Louis, and were transferred 
to the Missouri Pacific, which would carry us as far as Pueblo, 
Colorado. Soon we were speeding on through cities and vil- 
lages, past farm houses, orchards and groves. The next after- 
noon we passed through Kansas City, crossed the state of Kansas 
and the following day reached Pueblo. There we transferred to 
the Denver and Rio Grande, and at sunset had passed Canon City 
and soon entered Grand Canon, one of the most magnificent 
scenes of its kind in the world. Our train rumbled on through 
Salida and over the mountains. Next morning we passed down 
the Royal Gorge and arrived in Glenwood Springs. This we 
found to be a beautiful little city in the mountains, with fine ho- 
tels and bath houses, where patients spend months in taking daily 
baths to improve their health. We spent a half hour in this little 
city and passed away the time in roaming through its streets. 
As I walked along, I heard my name called and turned to find a 
former comrade of the Seventh, who after being discharged had 



HoMK Again. 75 

secured a position in a dru- store of that city. We chatted ah..nt 
old times until my train was ready to leave. 

We left for Grand Junction, where we were to translc^r t., the 
Rio Grande and Western. As we sped al-.n- we canoju olimpses 
of high and rocky bluffs, and the C.v;uu\ river, rushing madly 
down its rocky course. After leaving Cvaud Junction, we passed 
over the Great American Desert. As we rolled al-.ng over the 
burning sand, our eyes became tired and hot from ga/.ing on 
this waste plain. We passed no villages now, only little stations, 
where were located the water pools, and we felt' relieved every 
time we passed one of these green spots in the desert. All day 
and night we traveled through this waste land, which grew so 
monotonous, but next day we saw signs of civilization again. 

As we neared Salt Lake City, green fields appeared along the 
waterways wdiich have been made along the railroad. Before 
night closed in w^e caught a glimpse of Great Salt Lake awav in 
the distance. In the morning we strained our eves to catch a 
glimpse of the great Mormon tabernacle. We stopped in thc> 
city a short time and then proceeded on our way to Ogden, where 
we again transferred, this time to the Central Pacific, and then 
continued on our journey westward through the desert. The 
next day we reached Nevada; the desert wastes were now fast 
disappearing and our train whirled through large grazing tracts, 
past towns tilled with cowboys in their broad brimmed hats, llan- 
nel shirts, buckskin trousers and high-heeled boots with spurs 
extending back from heel and large pistols buckled to their sides. 
Oftentimes w^e saw large numbers of them following the herds of 
cattle wdiich dotted the plains as far as the eye could see. 

We next neared the mountains, wdiich appeared less formidable 
than the rugged Rockies, and which were covered wdth vege- 
tation. As we came along the mountain side we arrived at a di- 
vision where engines were changed and cars inspected. Kvery- 
one tumbled off the train on to the platform to limber up for the 
next ride. A short distance from the depot we noticed a large 
wooden cage on which was painted in large wdiite letters : 
THIS BAT WAS CAPTURED IN YUBA CANON. 

Everyone was eager to see it and w^alked up to the cage. On 
bending over so as to view the bottom of the cage, we saw a 
large red brick-bat. The boys never gave away the joke, but 
went back and sent others out to see the wonderful bat. This 



76 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

furnished anuiscment for us while waiting here. The sign caught 
the captain's eye, and he walked out to the cage, the boys laughing 
and shouting when he discovered the fake. But the captain took 
it good humoredly. 

We again moved on our way and soon neared the summit of 
the mountain, where snow sheds extended for miles and miles. 
They were constructed of large, heavy timbers, and during the 
winter season, when the snowfall is heavy, they must resemble 
large tunnels. After leaving these we soon entered California, 
and as our train descended the mountain side we could see thou- 
sands of acres of fruit trees — pears, peaches, apricots and figs. 
In the villages one could purchase large quantities of fruit for an 
exceedingly small amount of money. 

After leaving the foot of the mountains, we traversed the Sac- 
ramento Valley. This was very fertile and productive ; large 
wheat farms were passed as we went whirling by. We next 
passed through the city of Sacramento, the capital of the state, 
and in a short time arrived at Benicia bay, where the train was 
separated into two sections and pulled onto the large ferry boat to 
be carried across the bay. We arrived in Oakland at dinner time. 

It had taken us seven days to make the journey from New 
York, which in former years required a period of nine months. 
At Oakland we boarded a small boat and were taken across San 
Francisco bay to Angel Island, where we must remain in barracks 
until our transport was prepared to sail for Manila. 

Angel Island is a high, rough and irregular island on which is 
situated the artillery barracks and quarantine hospital. Any ves- 
sel entering the harbor and infested with any contagious disease, 
such as smallpox, yellow fever or bubonic plague, must deposit 
crew on shore at the hospital until the vessel has been disinfected 
and disease stamped out. Here, in the evening, as the sun sank 
between two high points of land, we beheld the Golden Gate. It 
certainly deserves the name that has been applied to it, for the 
sunset is a grand spectacle on a bright, clear evening. 

The weather was then very chilly there, although it was the 
month of July, and we could see many wearing overcoats. Passes 
were issued to us that we might visit the city of San Francisco. 
A large number of us took advantage of this and crossed over to 
the city. On the way we passed Alcatraz island, where is sit- 
uated the United States military prison. Here, soldiers who have 



HoMiv Agai] 



77 



committed crimes are imprisoned for terms exceedinj^^ Hve years. 
Stories were told to us there of many who attempted to escape, 
but, if successful in slipping- past guards are uslially drowned in' 
the bay. After reaching the city we made our way to the Presidio 
where we had friends we wished to see before leaving for the 
Philippines. 

We found the contour of the city to be very rough, the streets 
running up hill and down, which made us wonder how the street 
cars were able to ascend and descend them so successfully. At 
the Presidio, temporary hospital tents were placed along the 




CAPT. CHAS. A. VVORDEN LOOKING FROM A DESERTED HOUSE. 



hillside, and there, hundreds of sick soldiers were cared for as 
they arrived from the Philippines. These men told us wonderful 
stories of the severe campaigns and hardships they had endured 
in those islands. Some of our comrades were disheartened by 
these stories, for in two days we expected to set sail and be gone 
for three vears. Those of us who had exoerienced foreign ser- 



78 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

vice in Cuba, laughed at these stories for we knew they had been 
exaggerated. We knew that many things we would have to 
face would be severe, but were willing to face it for the sake of 
adventure and travel it afforded. 

Thousands of soldiers were waiting here to be transported to 
the Philippines. We w^ere to sail on the transport, City of Para, 
in company with two troops of the Fourth Cavalry, and five com- 
panies of the Twenty-fourth Infantry, who were colored. This 
was rather a mixed company of passengers, about one-half being 
colored. We spent the next two days in sight-seeing and on July 
15th, 1S99, boarded the transport bound for the Philippines. 
About four p. m. the boat backed away from the pier, and crossed 
the bay. The Twenty-fourth Infantry band which was on board 
our boat played "The Soldier's Farewell." On the way out of the 
bay we passed two boats containing volunteer regiments which 
were returning from the Islands. The weather was very rough 
and as we passed through the Golden Gate our vessel began to 
rock and heave, and we soon retired to our bunks on the berth 
deck. The weather continued to be rough and in the morning 
there were many who did not care to leave their bunks. That day 
the clouds cleared away and the sun came out brightly, and our 
boat plowed through the heavy swells of the Pacific. There was 
now no land in sight, and in every direction were large rolling 
swells which appeared like small mountains approaching us, caus- 
ing us to think it impossible for the ship to ride over the white 
capped waves. Groans were now issuing from all parts of the 
ship, and as I passed up to the cabin deck with mess kit in hand, 
I decided to postpone my breakfast, for my toes were tingling 
and there appeared to be a lump in my throat, making it difficult 
to swallow. Many of the boys were lined up along the rail with 
heads bent over, "feeding the fishes." Those who were not sick 
stood by laughing, with such remarks as "spit it out if you don't 
like it." I sought a quiet corner and sat watching the rolling 
waves, wishing I were anywhere but on the Pacific Ocean. 

A friend came with his breakfast and sat near by, eating. He 
insisted on my drinking a cup of cofifee, and taking my tin cup 
with him soon returned with the steaming beverage. Several 
swallows of this turned me upside down, and I was soon hanging 
over the rail, many of my comrades laughingly telling me to "spit 
it out," that I would soon be all right. Sickness continued for 



HoMK Again. 79 

several days, and then our ajj^etiles retunu'd, and il seemed im- 
possible to get enough to satisfy our hunger. Each morning after 
decks were scrubbed we had roll call, and then an hour or more 
was passed in setting-up drill, on deck, 'luerything was soon 
well regulated, this being a splendid ship of its kind. It had 
formerly been a passenger steamer, plying between San Francisco 
and the city of Para. It had been chartered Ijy the government 
to transport troops to the Islands, and had already made two 
voyages across the Pacific. The crew consisted of captain, who 
understood navigation thoroughlw and who commanded the boat; 
his assistants — first, second and third mates, wdiose duties it was 
to see that all of the captain's instructions were obeyed ; a chief 
engineer, who must see that fires and engines were in first-class 
condition ; a chief steward, who must look after the commissary 
department, and cooking for the boat's officers and crew. The 
entire crew was in two sections — one whose duties were scrtibbing 
decks, overhauling life boats, raising and lowering anchor, and 
keeping decks in good condition ; the other, a fire crew w hose 
duties were to fire boilers and pass coal from bunkers. 

The engine room and boilers were in center of ship. They 
were first-class marine engines, and ran a shaft which extended 
to the stern. Here beneath the water was the propeller wiiich 
was built from steel and which consisted of four blades, eight or 
ten feet long. It seemed hardly possible tliat this could force the 
large craft through the water at the rate of 300 or ;5.")0 knots 
every twenty-four hours. Directly behind the propeller was the 
steering blade which gave the ship the course, and which was 
manipulated from the pilot house. The steering was done by the 
boat's quartermasters, who had directly in front of them the chart 
or map, with route to be taken plainly marked thereon. In front 
of this and in plain view was the compass. On board this vessel 
was an electric light plant, which furnished light for every part of 
the ship. Also a condensing plant which separated salt from the 
sea water and made it fit to drink. We also found bakeries, a 
laundry, and an ice plant on board. On the sleeping decks were 
electric fans, which forced drafts of air through our quarters, 
making them more comfortable in warm climates. 

Time dragged slowly by on this long voyage, and all kinds of 
schemes were invented to wdiile away the time. We made friends 
with the men of the cavalrv and infantry. The men assembled 



80 Around tiik World with Uncle Sam. 

each day in groups — some telling yarns, some reading, others 
playing cards and gambling. We had a man in our company 
who was a typical Jew, and on whose countenance could be traced 
nearly every feature of the Jewish caste — hooked nose, sharp 
eyes, and cunning look, were all present. His name was Raven- 
croft, but he was known as "Ravenscamp." 

The colored troops were very fond of throwing dice, and 
"Raven" started a chuck-a-luck game. He had marked the num- 
bers 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 upon his poncho, and placed two dice in a tin 
cup. The men then placed their money on any one of these num- 
bers, and the dice were shaken and then rolled out on the board. 
The money that was placed on the number shown by the dice 
must be paid then by the man who conducts the game. But if 
the number covered by the money did not correspond with that 
shown by the dice, the man who conducted the game took posses- 
sion of it. "Raven" was very ambitious and we could hear him 
at all hours in the day calling loudly as he shook the dice — 
"one, two, and three — come see the old gamekeeper." He con- 
tinued this for several days, and was well patronized by the 
colored boys. But at almost every time "Raven" was the winner 
in the game. One day "Raven" was busy with his game, and 
had a large crowd around him, which rather excited him as he 
raked in the money, and at times paid out bets. Finally some 
other members of the colored regiment approached, and a large 
colored boy said, "boss, let me see dem bones." "Raven" re- 
plied "all right, look at them," he being busy. The colored man 
inspected them and said, "dem is all right," and passed them 
back. The Jew continued to rattle them in the tin cup. The 
new comers walked away, and after a while approached him 
again. They asked if there w^as any limit on the game, or if 
they might wager any amount they chose. "Raven" told them 
they might. He noticed that several staked their money on small 
numbers, but all the large money was placed on five. This soon 
became very noticable for each time this number won. The 
Jew's pile of money began to diminish, and he soon became ner- 
vous. He was compelled to pay from his pocketbook, and soon 
slipped aw^ay with his outfit under his anu. On examination he 
found that the colored man had switched dice, and had exchanged 
for one with fives on each side, therefore making it impossible for 
number five to lose. The "old gamekeeper" was not seen for 



Home Again. 81 

several days, l)Ut finally opened up aL;ain, this tiinr ])laein<; a limit 
on the bets and allovvetl no one to meddle with tlu' dice. The 
men of our company did ver\- little s^amblini,'^. f^r ihey had all 
experienced previous service, and understood tluir duties and 
went about to fulfil them willintiiy. 

We had several peculiar characters in our cnnipany. ( )ne whom 
we called "Circus Charlie," who could imitate clowns, whistle 
like a bird and talk like a lady ; when he tried to walk like one, it 
caused a great deal of amusement as he went swini^inc: alon^^ the 
deck. He had been very seasick, and one day while hang^ing 
over the rail he straightened up very suddenly, began to hawk 
and feel his throat. One of his comrades asked what troubled 
him, and he bent over to examine his toes, remarking at the same 
time, ■'! believe my toe nails came up that time." iCvery one 
laughed as "Circus'' walked gingerly down to his bunk. Our 
favorite storv teller was a member of the Twenty-fourth Infantry 
whose name w-as Sam. Sam would keep us roaring with laughter 
for hours as he related some of his exploits in the prize ring, or. 
of his travels with Barnum & Bailey's circus side show, represent- 
ing a wild man from some cannibal tribe, being obliged to eat 
five pounds of raw meat each day to make him look savage. He 
was the champion liar on board the vessel, and we spent many 
hours listening to the wonderful tales which he told. 

Seven days after leaving San Francisco we began to notice 
birds flving and the sailors told us we were near land. Soon after 
we wended our way into the port of Honolulu. Scores of native 
bovs. clad only in breech clouts, filled the water around the dock, 
crving in shrill tones, "dive, dive! throw money and watch me 
get it." Thev were out now in deep water, and when the coins 
which the boys threw struck the w^ater they followed its course 
downward, secured it and then rose to the surface like a porpoise, 
holding it up in the hand for us to see, and then swim off again 
calling, "dive, dive." Soon their mouths were bulged out like 
squirrels carrying nuts. ]\Iany people began to gather on the 
dock, some with wreaths of flowers placed around the hat and 
almost everv one wearing a bouquet. This was called the "land 
of flowers." A short distance back of the city was a large volcano, 
from which smoke poured constantly, and which we found on 
inquiry to be the volcano :\Iauna Loa, twenty-five miles distant 
from Honolulu. 1 was doing guard duty on the morning we 



82 Around the Wort.d with Uncle Sam. 

arrived here and was compelled to remain on the boat while the 
rest of the troops marched off for a holiday. Our boat was to 
remain here three days, to take on board a supply of coal, of 
which it took large quantities. The next two days I was allowed 
to go ashore, and passed many bathing in the waters or strolling 
along the roads beyond the suburbs of the city. We found that 
the people cultivated rice, and pineapples, and that cocoanuts and 
various other tropical fruits were grown. The natives were very 
friendly, these islands having become a part of the United States 
the previous year. 

The city contained many Chinese and Japanese traders and 
merchants, and the section of the city inhabited by them was in 
poor sanitary condition. IMany of the buildings in the city were 
built of rock or cement, in the residence portion, though, most of 
the houses were made of wood. Three days after our arrival our 
vessel slowly made its way out of the harbor, for there were 
many reefs near the island and the pilot must be familiar with 
every turn. A few hours after leaving the harbor we passed 
Leper Island, which contains a colony of lepers. Any one who 
visits this place or lands on its shore is never permitted to leave 
it, for the people of this island are quarantined against the world. 
Supplies of every description are landed here but nothing is ever 
removed. 

As we passed along we saw tracts of land which seemed to be 
covered with ripening grain, and we speculated as to how these 
people lived and under what form of government they ruled their 
colony, afflicted with the most dread disease known to the human 
race. We were told that the climate here was extremely mild and 
pleasant, the average temperature being 70 degrees Fahrenheit, 
sometimes varying 10 degrees either way. 

Once more we were out on the great Pacific, but the air was 
calm and the water as smooth as glass ; not even a ripple marred 
its surface, except where our boat plowed along leaving ripples, 
which liroadened for miles behind us. We now noticed small 
scliools of flying fish Avhich our vessel had frightened. They 
had wings like the birds and flew for hundreds of yards to our 
right and left. Also large bunches of jelly fish of beautiful rain- 
bow colors could be seen. Then we passed large schools of 
porpoises_ which the sailors told us attain a length of ten or 
twelve feet, their liodies beine" ver^• heavv and weiohiny- hundreds 



Home Again. 83 

of pounds. They appeared very l)eautiful as they rolled over the 
surface of the water, their dark hrown hodies oljstenin.c^ in the 
sunlight. A school of these followed us for hours, playing like 
children. Presently we came in sight of a fin above the surface of 
the water, and which moved ahead as though drawing a straight 
line. This we learned was a shark. Large, white sea gulls fol- 
lowed us for miles picking u]) the scraps which were tossed over- 
board from time to time. 

No one became sick after leaving Hawaii, and we rolled along 
day after day, over the glassy, smooth blue water, with no land 
in sight. After some time w^e occasionally sighted a great roll of 
smoke, and every one watched eagerly as this came nearer and 
nearer. Then small sticks seemed to appear above the water, and 
presently we could make out the masts of a vessel. As we passed 
by the steamer, both ships saluted by lowering the tlags on the 
masts at stern. By this emblem we could tell to what country she 
belonged and by looking at top of the foremast, to what port 
vessel w^as bound. There had been no land in sight for eight or 
ten days and one morning we were surprised to see a small rock 
peeping above the surface of the water. And as our ship advanced 
we could discern a small rocky island, whjch we learned was 
called :\Iidway Island. A few hours later we passed a volcano 
from which flashes of light were emitting and we wondered at 
this strange phenomenon in the middle of the ocean. The weather 
now became sultry. So far we had had no storms on the voyage. 
A few days later we observed water spouting up, off to our 
right; this we were told was the work of wdiales : but (xu" vessel 
did not approach near enough to get a glimpse of these monsters 
of the deep. Now drifts of sea weeds came floating by, flocks of 
birds were seen, and all knew that land was not far aw-ay. Our 
boat was passing near the Ladrone Islands, but we kept on our 
course toward the Philippines. 

It had now been twenty-six days since we left San Francisco, 
and in two more days we should arrive in Manila Bay. The fol- 
lowing day land was sighted, and we passed near the northern 
point of the Island of Luzon. We followed this shore line the 
next day at times going close enough to distinguish houses and 
villages on shore. In the evening we passed through the en- 
trance to Manila Bay, passing Corregidor Island, which divides 
the entrance into northern and southern channels. Our vessel 



84 Around the World w itii Uncle Sam. 

took the same course as that of Dewey's fleet, when they entered 
on that memorable day of May, the previous year. It had now 
grown dark, and shortly after this our boat was anchored along 
side several others. About five miles away we could see the 
electric lights sparkling along the shore, and this was Manila, 
the capital of the Philippine Islands. 




CHAPTER VT. 

LANDING IN MANILA CAMPAIGNING W ITII CK.NF.RAL m'aKTHUR's 

DIVISION — ON TIIK NOU'l'll LINK. 

LL were up briijht and carl\- on the morning of Aug- 
ust 13th. This voyage had lasted twenty-eight 
davs ; we had all grown restless and were tired of 
drinking sea water. Each one was eager to be on 
land once more. Lighters appeared around our 
boat, the infantry and cavalry were soon aboard and their tugs 
towed them in to shore, which was about five miles distant. 
Large vessels could not get nearer, as the water is too shallow. 
Men aboard the tugs had informed us that there had been hard 
fighting the day before with General McArthur's division on the 
north line. Eight or ten men had been killed and many wounded. 
Our captain had gone ashore, and on returning, orders were 
given to fall in and our company was soon filing down the gang- 
way lining two native cascoes. These are boats about forty feet 
long and perhaps ten feet wide ; as we got into these, they would 
rock and row as though they would tumble upside down. A 
tug threw us a line, and we were soon towed into the Pasig river. 
In a short time we landed near the walled city of Manila, and 
marched up a fine driveway along the shore to Malate barracks, 
which is in the suburbs of Manila. Here we took up our quarters 
in the -nipa barracks. These were long buildings, the roofs 
being made of palm leaves, and the sides of matting, which 
was woven from bamboo. Our company was to remain here for 
several days, until all our property was brought ashore, then join 
General McArthur's division on the north line at San Fernando. 
This was on the Manila & Dagupan railroad. 

Malate was a very beautiful place, being situated on the shore 
of Manila Bay. The majority of the foreign consuls had their 
residences here. This place was well guarded by American 
soldiers and native police, which had been established in all 
parts of the city. There were thousands of natives living in and 
about the city, the men being of small stature, black hair, and dark 
brown complexion. They wore white clothes, made of a very 



86 Around tjik World witji Uncle Sam. 

light material ; they wore no shoes and many were hatless. All 
were clean shaven and one would scarcely see any beards or 
mustaches. Some were nearly white, while others were very 
dark. The chief material worn by the women was calico, in 
varied colors. The greater number of them were barefooted and 
without any covering for their heads. 

Passing along the streets we saw here for the first time the 
caribou or water bufifalo. These animals have large heavy bodies, 
short legs, and are of a gray color, having scarcely any hair at 
all. Their large horns extend backward two or three feet ; these 
are the beasts of burden. They draw a two-wheeled cart with a 
pair of shafts, and a yoke hooked over front end of shafts, wdiich 
fasten over the top of the necks of the animals ; a small line fast- 
ened underneath to keep it from slipping off. These animals are 
very powerful, and can draw a. load of a ton or more with ap- 
parent ease. They move along very slowly. The boys remarked, 
that you had to look twice to see them move. They must have 
water every twenty minutes or half hour; this must be poured 
over the body or they must be released and allowed to wallow 
around in the water, as they absorb it through their hides. If 
they are not permitted to have water within an hour they become 
maddened and raise havoc in general. 

Numbers of small ponies are also found here, many of them 
being hitched to two-wheeled carriages ; these are covered and 
called "carrometos." These little animals travel very rapidly. 
Their driver will haul you to any part of the city or one hour for 
one peseta, which is worth ten cents in our money. It took us 
some time to learn how to make exchange of money, as one 
dollar of United States money is equivalent to two dollars 
Mexican money. 

Manila is situated on the east shore of Manila Bay. It is built 
on low ground, on the banks of the Pasig river. This river is the 
outlet to Laguna de Bay or lake of the bay, which is about twenty 
miles inland, southeast from Manila. At high tide the water 
runs back nearly to the lake ; at low tide the river is swift and 
rapid. It is a treacherous stream and many men while in bathing 
were drowned. It is navigable, and boats drawing ten feet of 
water can follow to its source and enter the lake. The walled city 
of Manila is built on the south bank of this river. The wall is 
built of stone, being about twenty-five feet in height and about fif- 



With GiixERAi. AIcArtiil-r ix tiik I'ihmimmnks. 87 

teen feet thick It has stood for centuries and is surrounded hy a 
moat which is filled with slimy orcen water. There are four en- 
trances into this city, one from the north, south, east and west. To 
enter these gateways you nmst cross- drawbridges over the moat. 
The walled part of Manila is the highest point in the city. This 
place contains the Governor Generars palace, various convents, 
soldiers' barracks and many Catholic churclies. All buildings in- 
side of the wall are built of stone and cement, each two stories 
high. The inhabitants all live in the upper story, as it is too dam]) 
on the ground. The lower story is used for business places. In 
the residence portion of the city this story is used for stables for 
the ponies and carriages. 

Passing out of the west gate you are on the shore of Manila 
Bay, extending from the river, at tlie end of which is located the 
Santa Cruz monument, Going south along the shore is a fine 
driveway, with beautiful palm trees on either side; this continues 
for about one mile. At the southwest corner of the wall is a 
large monument, built in memory of the great Spanish explorer, 
who discovered these islands, known as the Magellan monument. 
Here begins the Luneta, where native criminals and insurrectos. 
who rebelled against the authority of Spain, were marched and 
shot. This place has now been remodeled; beautiful lawns have 
been made, trees planted, seats erected and fine driveways built 
around it. Here are two band-stands and electric lights reaching 
every part. Concerts are given here by American military bands. 
In the evenings this place is alive with people and the driveways 
filled with carriages. Standing here in the evening you may see 
representatives of people from every part of the world promenad- 
ing in every conceivable costume. This is a very interesting place 
and one ma}- stand for hours gazing on this grand spectacle. 
Continuing on is Malate, and on the northeast, towards the river 
is Saint Anna. Here is Paco cemetery, where the dead are laid 
away in vaults. This cemetery is under the control of Spanish 
friars. People rent these vaults to place their dead in. The}- are 
l)uilt from cement and stone, being sealed up. When the rent is 
not forth-coming, the bodies are taken out and thrown in the 
boneyard, which is a square surrounded by a high concrete wall. 
Ascending the steps to this is a small platform and one looking 
down in can see thousands of human skeletons piled up on top 
of one another. 



88 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

As you reach the river you come to a large toll bridge, which 
spans this river. To the left of this bridge is a large market under 
roof; this has fine concrete floors and is scrubbed daily. Here 
thousands of natives are selling their goods. Such as tropisal^ 
fruits, bananas, plantain, cocoanuts, pineapples, oranges, limes, 
lemons, guavas, mangos, bread fruit, grape fruit, vegetables of 
all descriptions, sweet potatoes, onions, garlic, fish, shrimp and 
grasshoppers. These are considered an extra dish in this coun- 
try. In certain seasons of the year you can see people making 
large nets and gathering them in and selling them by the quart, 
or any quantity you wish to buy. The legs and wings are re- 
moved and they are fried or stewed. This is not a favorite dish 
in America as it does not please the palate of the American. The 
natives are very fond of this dish. Meat is also sold at this 
market, beef being a luxury, often selling for seventy-five cents 
per pound. Pork is plentiful as there are large numbers of hogs 
in these islands. Chickens are not sold on this market, as they 
are raised for fighting. Cock fighting is the native sport in the 
Philippines, Saint Anna having the largest pit on the island of 
Luzon. Among other articles for sale at- this market are corn, 
peanuts, sugar and molasses. 

Crossing the river to New ]\Ianlia, passing San Polac, one can 
see thousands of native houses. They are built of bamboo. Four 
poles are placed in the ground, steps being built up about ten 
feet high. Here the floor is built from boards or split bamboo ; a 
door and windows are cut out of each side. The roof is made 
from nipa or palm leaves woven together in bunches. The sides 
of the house are made of matting woven from long thin strips of 
bamboo. Everything is lashed on with rattan — a sort of vine 
which is as tough as whale bone — a nail not being used in the 
entire construction. In the poorer section beds are unknown, for 
natives sleep on the floor. Knives, forks, spoons and dishes are 
not seen here. The meals all are cooked in a large cast-iron pan, 
after which the family gathers around the pan each one helping 
himself, eating with his fingers. Oftentimes you may see the 
family squatted down around this pot rolling up a ball of rice, 
placing a small piece of fish on top of it and then putting it in 
their mouths and eating it. This looks odd and filthy to us at first 
but one soon grows accustomed to it. Wealthier natives have 
large buildings with several roouLS, their houses being furnished 



With Generaf, McArtiiur in the riin.iiTixKS. 



89 



with beds, chairs, tables and chinaware of modern style. These 
are nearly all imported, and, of course it takes a wealthy family 
to have these luxuries. The well to do Filipino dresses in 
modern fashions, many wearing clothing of latest style, shoes and 
straw- hats. The women dress mostly in black, the goods being 
woven out of thin material. This section of the city is the largest 
portion of Manila. It contains the IJonondo district, which ex- 
tends to the shore of the bav. The Americans have divided the 




BATTALION RETREAT IN A FIELD CAMP. 



island of Luzon into two parts. North of the Pasig river the 
north line, and south, the south line. The population of Manila 
is over 400,000 inhabitants scattered over a great area of ground, 
as the majority of the people live outside of the wall. 

The American army had captured this place from the Spanish 
in August, 1898, being assisted by the natives under Aguinaldo as 
their leader and general. The Americans secured thousands of 
arms and rounds of ammunition at Cavite. where the Spanish 
fleet was destroved. Here the American army had landed and 



90 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

supplied Ag'uinaldo with these arms, he arming the natives and 
dnlHng them, and organizing them into a small army, thus assist- 
ing the Americans in capturing Manila. After peace was declared 
between the Americans and Spanish, Aguinaldo had declared the 
Filipinos must have independence, and continued to organize a 
large armv. The Americans did not look favorably upon this 
movement. Conferences were held for several months. The 
natives were excitable and passionate, and in January, 1899, they 
had elected Aguinaldo president of the Philippine Islands and 
declared it a republic. 

On February 13th, this same year a clash came between the 
Americans and Filipinos. The Americans held Manila, the Fili- 
pinos holding almost everything outside the city. They were 
driven back and the Americans now held the section north of Ma- 
nila, the line extending about forty miles. West of Manila to the 
waterworks, which was about sixteen miles distant, the Ameri- 
cans held Cavite, Immuslacoor, which is along the shore of 
Manila Bay and Paranake, which is about six miles south of 
Manila. An American soldier did not need to venture far from 
Manila to get into trouble. 

The first capitol of the Philippine Republic was at Malolos, 
which is located on the north line. The Filipinos were driven 
from this place after the first day's fighting in February ; they 
then moved their capitol to San Fernando from which they were 
also driven. General McArthur had his headquarters now at San 
Fernando, his army holding positions a little farther north. Here 
one of Aguinaldo's principal generals had advised Aguinaldo to 
surrender. One evening as he was going to Aguinaldo's head- 
quarters he was shot by a sentry. His friends and family became 
very bitter toward Aguinaldo, or "Aggie,'' as he was known by 
our soldiers. This general's name was Luna, and he was a favor- 
ite among the Filipinos. Many blamed Aguinaldo for this man's 
death, which caused them to become loyal to the Americans. The 
Spanish soldiers in outlying districts had been captured or sur- 
rendered to the Filipinos and were now held as prisoners by 
them. This had increased their supply of arms and ammunition, 
so it was now thought they had an army of about 75,000 or 
100,000 armed men, and there was quite a task before the Ameri- 
cans, who were trying to capture their Spanish prisoners and 
transport them to Spain. Our company remained here at Malate, 



With General ]\IcArtiiur ix the PHirjrrixKs. 91 

drawing rations and khaki tdothinj^. which was of hf(ht material 
and of a yellow color. This clothing- was used in field service, as 
blue clothes are too warm in tropical countries. It was now the 
rainy season of the year and the rain seemed to fall in torrents. 
The government was building a large ice plant, and cold stor- 
age on the banks of the Pasig river, where fresh beef could be 
stored away, and ice furnished for hospitals and troops around 
in the vicinity of the city. One thing noticeable was the respect 
the natives paid to their churches. They would never pass these 
structures without stopping, bowing and crossing themselves. 
The churches throughout these islands were Roman Catholic and 
vou could see the cross extending from the cupolas of each one. 
There were no public schools established here and any one desir- 
ing an education must secure it through the church. The natives 
showed very little friendliness toward the Americans and they 
would pass the soldiers "looking daggers'' at us. \olunteer 
regiments were leaving here for home every day, they being state 
troops from the western states. They were glad to get away, 
as many of them had been here for one and one-half years, and 
had seen hard service. One day our company fell in and was 
marched off to the Bonpndo district, where we went aboard cars 
and were soon on our way to join General AIcArthur's division, 
on the north line. We were soon passing the line of intrench- 
ments around the city. These were all guarded and held by 
American troops, as it was necessary at this time to keep a strong 
guard around the city. Our train soon passed through Calumbit, 
where the railroad shops were, which had a heavy guard of Amer- 
ican soldiers. This road was operated and under the management 
of American soldiers. We passed along through ]vIalolos. the for- 
mer Filipino capital. These towns were filled with natives, and 
had strong garrisons of Americans, every one of them being under 
martial law. We made our way along slowly and soon crossed 
the Rio Grande river over a large iron bridge, which had been 
wrecked and had been repaired by a company of engineers. 

We passed along and could see natives at work, planting out 
their rice crops. Around these fields were "paddies" or small 
banks thrown up. Here the rice is transplarted or set out. Water 
must be kept over it until it begins to head, then, the water is 
turned off and the crop is allowed to ripen. When it is harvested 
vou can see thousands of natives taking in their crops. We now 



92 Around the World with Uncle; Sa 



M. 



came to Colocon, which is on the bank of the Bagbag river. Here 
Colonel Funston, of the 20th Kansas volunteers had crossed with 
a number of his regiment on a raft, flanking the Filipinos and 
driving them from their strong intrenchments. In the afternoon 
we arrived at San Fernando Here we marched to a large dwell- 
ing house of a wealthy native ; this was to be our quarters. We 
were soon engaged in putting up our canvas folding cots and ar- 
ranging our mosquito netting. It is very necessary to have this 
netting as it is impossible to sleep where the mosquitoes are so 
numerous. This dwelling house could not accommodate our 
entire company, so a part of them were sent to another building 
not far distant. 

About an hour after getting our bunks in proper condition an 
order came for our lieutenant and twenty-five men to guard a 
wagon train, which' was carrying rations and supplies to the front, 
a distance of about eight miles. A detail was soon made up and 
we were issued a day's rations and were soon marching away to 
the commissary building, where four or five army wagons with 
four mules each, and forty-five carts with caribous were strung 
out behind one another, each having a native driver. Soon we 
were marching along muddy roads and crossing swift streams. 
Our progress was very slow, traveling at the rate of one mile 
every two hours. The natives were compelled to stop and allow 
their animals to wallow in the water every twenty minutes. Otir 
course was along a railway which had been completely demolished. 
We passed intrenchments from which the Filipinos had been 
driven a few days before. It was now growing dark, the rain 
coming down in torrents. The native drivers holloing at their 
animals and chattering like droves of monkeys. At about twelve 
o'clock that night we arrived at the little village of Kulukit ; there 
we bunched our carts together and sought a shelter. We were 
awakened in the morning, and were soon busy getting our break- 
fast, making coffee, frying bacon and eating hardtack. We were 
informed here that the day before Colonel Smith had advanced 
with his regiment, the 12th infantry and a battery of artillery 
upon the city of Angelus, capturing it after a hard fight. We 
could now hear the booming of large guns, as we marched along. 

The guards informed us that a large detail from our company 
had passed through that morning at daylight intending to place 
several engines on the track so the natives could not destroy them. 



With Gknkrai, McAutiihr in tiU' I'm ii.i immxi-.s. 



93 



We learned later that this firino- which wc had heard look ])lacc 
while our men were at work in readjusting- tliese enj^ines, the 
Filipinos attacking" them and trying to prevent them from ac- 
complishing their work. Our wagon train now rtHn-ned to vSan 
Fernando and we were soon in our quarters once more. We were 
now busy on reconnaissance duty, scouring the country in every 
direction. These sketches were sent into Manila where our 




SOLDIERS TAKING REFRESH AIK.N T^ Al A AIOUNTAIN INN. 



draftsman would complete them into maps. It being the engi- 
neers' duty to furnish maps for the army in times of war. The 
24th infantry now arrived here and we met many acquaintances 
whose comradship we had formed while aboard the transport 
The "old game keeper" was soon busy, as it was hard to get him 
out on detail for he could play sick almost any time he wished. 

To the north was a large mountain about fifteen miles from 
San Fernando, known as Mt. Aryat. This was covered with trees 
and was a stronghold for the insurrectos. Between this place and 
San Fernando was the village of Mexico. The 24th was now 



94 Around Tiiii World with Uncle Sam. 

stationed here. One day a corporal and I were sent out there in 
company with our second heutenant, where a reconnoitering 
party was made up from the 24th infantry, to proceed in the 
direction of Mt. Aryat. We were soon marching along through 
mud and over streams with a small Iggorote as our guide. These 
are a mountain tribe and average about four feet in height, of a 
dark complexion and woolly hair. This guide was to lead us 
where the Filipinos were located, as we desired to find out how 
near they were. 1 he corporal and I were making a map of the 
country, being equipped with sketching boards and compasses, 
keeping the direction, marking roads and streams, pacing the 
distance as we passed along. 

Our small detachment had advanced about four miles and were 
following an embankment thrown up for irrigation. We had 
now overtaken the colored troops. The advance party with 
the sergeant and several men who were leading called back to 
their captain, saying, "there is a man up ahead of us with a gun." 
The captain said "take it from him." About that time the 
Filipinos in the village ahead opened fire, the bullets rattling 
through the bamboo, chopping ofif twigs. Our detachment be- 
came panic-stricken, shooting in every direction and running 
back, we having difficulty in keeping them from getting behind 
us and shooting over our heads. Their officers could do very 
little with them and had to return to Mexico again. One of their 
number had lost his gun and belt, and had pulled ofif his shoes so 
as to be able to make better time. When we met him a few miles 
back, we all laughingly asked him what the trouble was. He 
remarked: 'T tell you boss dat was a close shave." This was 
the first time he had ever been under fire, and be became so ex- 
cited as to scarcely know what he was doing. 

We were soon again in San Fernando and now our company 
was placed on various duties. Headquarters guard, outpost duty, 
guarding wagon trains and patrolling the railroad between San 
Fernando and Apeliet, where a large detail was made up to guard 
the old railroad depot, the town being about two miles distant up 
the river. Here the Filipino scouts had informed our boys that 
a large band of Filipinos were near the town, and were coming 
over to capture the depot, where our boys had their bunks and 
mosquito nettings placed for sleeping quarters. This was a dis- 
agreeable night and all were fast asleep when about ten o'clock 



With Gkxkrai, McArtiiur i.\ tiik Piiii.ii'imxf.s. 95 

it came the turn of a youiis;- member of llie (k'taclinK'iit to <:;o on 
post. The post extended one hundred yards forward alon^- the 
railroad embankment and across a rice field. Opposite this was 
a long row of tall bamboo trees, having thorny branches extend- 
ing out from the body and covered with small leaves, resembling 
willow leaves. This sentry was pacing up and down keeping a 
diligent watch, as he expected the Filipinos to attack any minute. 
The wind had begun to blow and as he was walking along looking 
across the line of embankment he saw the tops of these bamboo 
trees waving backward and forward in the wind. He started on a 
run for the quarters where the men were asleep, calling out loudl}' 
— "Here they are!" Here they come!'' The men tumbled out of 
their bunks, taking mosquito nets, some buckling on belts, over 
their imderwear and many going out in comic attire. On examin- 
ation there were no Filipinos to be found, and the sentry con- 
tinued on his post, feeling very much ashamed. The boys retired, 
once more rearranged their bunks and nets and were soon asleep. 
The railroad had been repaired by hundreds of Chinese coolies 
as far as Angelus, there being thousands of these orientals in the 
islands. A great movement was now being planned to capture 
Aguinaldo and his army. General Mc Arthur was to hold the 
line of railway with a large division, Gencal Lawton was to take 
the right flank around Mt. Aryat. and General Wheaton with his 
expedition on water was to proceed to the Gulf of Lingayen, and 
land at Dagupan. In this way the Filipinos w^ould be surrounded 
on three sides, forcing them to the w^est coast into the mountains, 
wdiere they w'ould be compelled to surrender. 

Large numbers of volunteers were now arriving from the states. 
These new regiments numbering from the 2()th to the 49th, the 
36th being organized from ex-volunteer soldiers, wdio were dis- 
charged in the Philippines. This was commanded by Colonel Bell 
an energetic and dashing officer, who hnci formerly served as 
lieutenant in the Fourth Cavalry. General Wheeler now arrived 
from the United States to take command of a brigade in General 
McArthur's division. About eight or ten miles from Angelus lie 
the mountains. At the foot of these was Porac. a boasted strong- 
hold of the Filipinos. A detachment from my company was 
ordered to join General Wheeler's headquarters at Sanareta, 
wdiere his brigade was to advance against Porac. This brigade 
consisted of the 9th infantrv, 3(lth infantry, one battery of artil- 



96 Around the; World with Uncle Sam. , 

lery, and our detachment of engineers. General McArthur ac- 
companied this column. Our detachment was fitted out with 
cooking utensils, as our company would now be split up in de- 
tachments from this on. A few days before this three of us had 
been on guard in the general's headquarters. 

This was a fine building owned by a wealthy Filipino planter, 
wdio now had a temporary residence in ^Manila. The ground 
floor of this building was covered with tile, and in the center was 
a fine billiard table. As we passed back and forth by this table 
the floor would sound hollow, and as we stamped upon it won- 
dered the cause of it. A day or so later the Filipino owner ar- 
rived. After getting permission he removed the billiard table, 
lifted up a few tile and took up a box which contained $40,000 
in jewelry and gold. When the boys heard of this we could see 
them digging everywhere, around buildings, and old sugar store 
houses, but no doubt what they found could be easily taken care 
of. One evening as we were marching to Sanareta we found 
empty houses, these offering us a shelter. We soon had our bunks 
in readiness and in a short time all were fast asleep. Many shots 
were fired into this town this night, but no one heeded them. 
The next morning found us on our way to Porac before daybreak. 

After a few hours' marching we came to sugar cane, and rice 
fields. Firing could be heard to the right, the direction in which 
Colonel Bell had advanced. The 9th infantry now made double 
time ; coming to a large broad field, they threw out a skirmish 
line on either side of the road. But we remained with the artillery 
keeping the road and advancing down it, firing shrapnel and often 
advancing three or four hundred yards at a time. An hour later 
Porac was captured and about one hundred prisoners taken by 
the cavalry, which had large American horses that covered the 
ground rapidly. Our brigade remained here all night, the next 
morning marching to Angelus, where General McArthur's head- 
quarters was then established. 

This was a large town on a high sandy point, there being very 
few natives living here. For as soon as they would come in. 
Colonel Jaky Smith put them to work, he having been com- 
mander here for over a month. The native men had been set to 
work cutting down weeds and brush, thus making the town as 
clean as if it had been swept with a broom. Here our detachment 
was to build a railroad bridge which had been destroyed. The 



With Oi;\i;k.\i. AUAktiuk i.\ tih-: I 'ii ii.i i'imnks. 97 

Filipinos were stationed on one side of the river and the Ameri- 
cans on the other. The Americans did not care to make an ad- 
vance now, as they were waiting for General Lawton's column 
to advance along the right flank. So we had to continue building 
our bridge under the Filipinos' fire. To protect us there were 
two pieces of artillery placed along side of us, and a watch placed 
in the church tower, with a powerful glass. A telcplrone was 
strung from this to the artillerymen, and when a band of 
Filipinos would come near us the watchman would telephone the 
direction from which they were approaching, then they would 
drop shrapnel near the Filipinos scattering and keeping them 
back. 

Infantry regiments were having target practice, placing targets 
out in every direction from the town. They kept firing away day 
after day while awaiting completion of Lawton's flank move- 
ment. Our bridge was now finished, and on the night of October 
17th the insurrectos made an attack on the towm This lasted 
from one o'clock in the morning until after daylight, the insur- 
rectos getting no closer than six or seven hundred yards. Tarlac 
the Philippine capital was about 35 miles north of Angelus along 
the railroad. Spanish prisoners coming in to our lines informed 
us that Banban on the edge of the mountains was verv strongly 
fortified. Here the hardest fighting would take place. \\^e knew 
that there were strong forces of Filipinos in front of the river, 
and of course it would be quite a task to rlrive them back. One 
morning all the troops were ready for the forward move. Scouts 
sneaking down and crawling across the river made their way 
along on their hands and knees to gain the large Filipino in- 
trenchments. Not a shot was fired, which led us to believe that 
some of their scouts had been in the town and had got news of 
our movements and had all retreated. The army continued on. 
passing through Alabalacet. There were no signs of Filipinos, 
but the railroad was torn up and the Macabebe scouts passed on 
to locate the enemy on the banks of the Banban river. Here our 
detachment joined the ITth infantry under General Jaky Smith. 
We were to be placed on the right flank, make our way in rear of 
Banban and try to cut ofif their retreat, at a small town bv the 
name of Capas. We had a running fight all day. several of our 
men being killed and wounded. We advanced onward and 
crossed Banban river and arrived in Capas that night about dark. 



98 Around the World with Unci.e Sam. 

The train had passed through there about one hour before we 
reached that place. Here we captured hundreds of FiHphios ; 
on the retreat from Banban, our detachment captured a large 
band of them, securing forty or fifty guns. Among these we 
recognized a native barber, who had shaved us in San Fernando. 
We had to build a bridge here to get the wagon train across, tak- 
ing us all day. The main column was now following the retreat- 
ing Filipinos as fast as possible, capturing Tarlac their capital 
without firing a shot. This broke up the army on the north line. 
Aguinaldo slipping by Lawton's column with a small body guard, 
was chased into the mountains by several troops of the 4th 
cavalry, they capturing the Filipino capital, which was traveling 
over land on a caribou cart. With this were quite a number of 
the cabinet officers and many Filipino generals. 

The railroad was now under American control. We were soon 
busy repairing bridges which had been destroyed. Natives and 
Chinese coolies were employed to lay track and fill in washouts. 
Our detachment then returned to Banban, built a large trestle 
work and repaired the largest bridge on the system, which had 
been partly wrecked and destroyed. Here we worked for about 
one month, and in December were able to run trains from Manila 
to Dagupan. Trouble was now arising south of Manila, and on 
the 20th of December we were ordered back into Manila to take 
part in several expeditions over the south line. 

As we were returning along the railway, natives were harvest- 
ing their rice, which resembled oats somewhat, when ripening. 
This grain is harvested by cutting off the heads with knives, no 
machinery of any description being used. Thousands of natives 
could be seen on either side of the railway, gathering this golden 
harvest. About one foot of straw is allowed to remain to the 
grain ; it is then flailed out, the hull resembling barley, still re- 
maining on the grain. They then have large tree trunks sawed up 
into about four feet lengths, hollowed out on the top in the 
shape of a basin. The rice is then placed in here and pounded out 
with a heavy sledge. This is made of heavy wood, large at both 
ends and cut down in the center. 

We were soon in Manila taking up our quarters at Malate. 
Here clothing was issued. The remainder of our company having 
arrived with Lawton's column, we now were getting ready to 
go with General Schwan's expedition on the south line Here the 



With Gi-neral McArthur in the Puh.ippines. 99 

insurgents were busy and there were thousands of Spanish 
prisoners who must be released. One evening news of General 
Lawton's death was announced, he having been shot dead while 
commanding his troops near San Mateo, about forty miles north- 
east of A'lanila. Several new regiments of volunteers being under 
his command, he became very anxious and was commanding the 
attack in person, wearing a white helmet and white duck suit, 
which made him very conspicuous. He was picked off by a Fili- 
pino sharpshooter. This was a great shock to our boys, as he 
was one of the favorite generals in the American army. His 
body was brought to Manila and placed in a metallic cofifin, to 
be returned to the United States for burial. 




CHAPTER VII. 

campaigning on the south line with general schvvan — 

the wonderful volcano at lagasri — with general 

bates' expedition to the province OE canierines 

in the southern portion oe luzon. 

ANIL A is known throughout the world for its won- 
derful rope. As you pass along the river front you 
can see thousands of bales of hemp being unloaded 
from small vessels and hauled away on carts. A 
small canal runs from the river, north through the 
Bonondo district ; here small vessels and cascoes are run in where 
there are large rope manufacturing estal)lishments. There the 
natives make this rope. 

Large quantities of tobacco come into the city thus furnishing 
employment for thousands of men in the large cigar factories. 
Many of these factories employ as high as 3000 cigar rollers, con- 
sisting of men, women and children. The cigars are packed in 
boxes and shipped to all parts of the world. 

Manila contains the largest prison in the Philippine Islands. 
This prison is called Bilivid and is far out in the suburbs of the 
city; there, thousands of prisoners were in custody many of them 
murderers and some of them, leaders of the insurrection, were 
placed here for safe keeping. These were transported later on to 
the Ladrone Islands. There they were held until they were willing 
to take the oath of allegiance to the Lhiited Sates. The great 
Mabina, called the brains of the Filipino republic was held 
prisoner here. He was a paralytic and was unable to walk with- 
out crutches. This man was given the honor of planning the in- 
surrection against the Americans — plans which would eventually 
have made Aguinaldo emperor of the Philippines, had his schemes 
been carried out. 

It was now the first of January and our great expedition had 
been fitted out for campaigning on the south line. Our detach- 
ment started on this day, marched out of Manila, keeping to the 
south side of the Pasig river, and arriving at San Peter Macarti. 
Here this great column was being mobilized, six or seven regi- 



102 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

ments of infantry, fourteen troops of cavalry, several batteries of 
artillery, and one mountain battery. These mountain batteries 
are arranged so as to take apart, place on mules' backs, where 
thev can be transported over mountains and hills, thus surprising 
the enemy. 

We advanced onward and soon left the main road and started 
across in the direction of Laguna de Bay. It was our duty to cut 
roads through and build bridges as they wanted to take a new 
route and surprise the enemy. Our first night's camp was on 
the edge of a swamp or lake. This was one of the most miserable 
nights any of us had ever passed in the Philippines. It was im- 
possible for any one to get a minute's sleep, some one remarking 
that the mosquitoes carried augers and bored holes instead of 
biting. They swarmed around us in millions on the banks 
of this swamp, and all we could do was to take the punishment, 
which they inflicted upon us. The next morning we made our 
way over hills and high ground along the shore of the lake. Be- 
hind us our column was strewn along as far as we could see. 
The next evening we came along the lake shore camping at 
night in a fishermen's village. The enemy was located about three 
miles farther on, along the lake shore. 

After daylight we heard the firing of guns and booming of 
cannons, and about noon we passed into Binyan, going over a 
beautiful level country, where there were thousands of acres of 
rice. The city had been taken by surprise and everything had 
been left behind, the natives leaving on short notice. This city 
was built on the lake shore, it being a place of about 50,000 
inhabitants. The insurrectos had retreated across the mountains 
in the direction of Ceylon. We remained in this city this night. 
Many of the boys secured fine straw hats. These were made 
from swamp grass, which is secured near this place, the hats 
being very valuable. They are also expensive, many of them 
costing five and six dollars. 

We had fresh pork here, having come across several large 
porkers which had been fattened on rice. Many of the boys here 
had found Beno distilleries. This is a drink distilled from rice 
and resembles whisky, except it contains more alcohol, is 
flavored with anise, and it certainly must be of great strength as 
it wonderfully afifected our fellows, some declaring they could 
whip the whole Philippine army themselves. The next day found 



Camtaicnmnc, ox 'n;i-; SdiTii l.iNi",. 103 

us following' the Filipinos, passing through a village at the focjt 
of a mountain. Here we saw stocks for the first time. These 
were made of two pieces of wood. A place was chiseled out for 
the neck and for each arm, and a l)ench ])l;ice(l in rear. 'I'he neck 
and arms being placed in the top piece extending over and being 
locked. This mode of imprisonment was still in practice here. 

It now became a race with us and the Filipinos; for we had 
overtaken the rear of their retreating- army and had captured 
prisoners and guns — securing quite a number of pieces of artillery 
and hundreds of Spanish prisoners. They were very joyous, as 
this meant their freedom and they would soon again be in their 
Spanish homes. As they passed,, us they would pat us on the 
back, remarking. "You are all right." We were now high upon 
a plain, and towards evening we halted and sought a i)lace for 
rest in a small, scattered village. 

Here were large quantities of nuts resembling hickory nuts ; of 
course everyone was soon busy helping themselves. A (lerman 
corporal of our company tilled his haversack with these nuts. 
Thev are verv delicious, but contain a large amount of oil. It 
was not verv long until everyone became sick, quite a number sit- 
ting along the roadside, pale and miserable, looking as if they had 
been deserted by all friends. Fritz Otto, our corporal sat there, 
rolling his eyes and groaning. We asked him what the trouble 
was and he replied, "dem nuts, dem nuts." An entire regiment 
had eaten of these nuts and could not proceed any farther, being- 
compelled to remain here in camp for tlv- night, many of them 
vowing they would never eat another nut. 

The next morning we started on, passing through two deep 
canons, and arrived in Ceylon about dark, the cavalry having 
preceded us, thus driving the Filipinos ahead of them. We re- 
mained here for two or three days, unable to get our wagon 
trains across these canons with supplies. It was necessary to 
draw them up the mountain sides with ropes, often taking a hun- 
dred men to» accomplish it. Through these mountains were large 
droves of monkeys. Often we could see them hanging with their 
tails twisted around limbs, chattering, jabbering and making 
faces. It was impossible to catch them, as the\- would scamper 
awav, wild and excited. Oftentimes we would secure ju-ts at 
native houses, these being deserted b\- the owners, v^■ho had 
left evervthing behind. 



104 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

In this country were hundreds of cocoanut trees. Here we 
seldom drank water, as the boys would chop down these trees 
and secure the green cocoanuts, cut the tops off with a sharp knife 
and drink the contents. The milk of these nuts is very delicious, 
some of them containing over a gallon. This is really the pure 
cocoanut milk, as it is in the htisk before the cocoanut is formed. 
After the cocoanut is formed with the hard shell, the milk all 
forms into meat, leaving the water the milk contains inside the 
ripened cocoanut. Many people are of the opinion that the co- 
coanut after being shipped has been tapped and the milk re- 
moved, but this is not true, as the three round holes which ap- 
pear on the ripened shell is where the stem fastens which holds 
them to the tree. It did not take us long to learn the way in 
which to obtain this cocoanut milk, as it must be secured from the 
husk before the nut is formed. 

Our column now was proceeding to the southwest, leaving a 
garrison of soldiers in each town or village. We were marching 
to Lake Taal, as there was a hotbed of insurgents in that vi- 
cinity. In the center of this lake was a small volcano. We were 
now marching over a tableland where there were acres and acres 
of tobacco under cultivation ; acres of corn, which was now about 
knee high, and large quantities of sweet pototoes. 

As our column moved across this stretch of land, white flags 
were displaved from every house and village, thus signifying 
that these inhabitants were not hostile to the Americans. As we 
passed them, they were very friendly, bidding us the time of day 
in Spanish, which most of us understood. Upon being asked if 
there were anv insurgents through this district, they would shrug 
their shoulders, remarking, "Insurrecto much a marlowe," which 
meant, insurgents are bad. 

Along in the afternoon our column arr'ved on the edge of a 
high, rocky bluff. On stepping to the edge of the high point of 
land vou could observe one of the most beautiful landscapes eye 
had ever beheld. Directly in front of us and far down below is 
Lake Taal ; every point of it can be seen from this place. In the 
center of this lake is a small rock from which oozes a thick stream 
of smoke, gas and steam, rolling upward in the air. Between us 
and this volcano and on the shore of the lake, is the village of 
Tallasie. Formerly this had been a city, but had been destroyed 
by an eruption of a volcano. It is now built up with native 



Campaigning on the South Line. 



105 



houses. The ruins of the old city are stiU visible. We advanced 
down this steep mountain side and were soon camping on the 
shore of the lake. There were a few natives remaining in the vil- 
lage, but the greater part of them had lied with the retreating in- 
surgents. We remained here for the night, and in the morning 
were on our way to Lipa, the capital of the province of Ratangas. 
This city is second in size on the island of TvUzon, Manila leading 
in population. This province is considered one of the richest in 




FUXER.\L SCENE. wrTH NATIVE BAND, NAICE, CAVITE TROVINCE, P. I. 



the Islands. We now^ passed through rice and cane fields, the 
cane fields having sugar houses on the edges. These sheds con- 
tain large earthen jars, holding about fifty gallons of molasses. 
The juice ground from the cane is boiled into syrup, placed in 
these earthen jars and shipped to Manila, where it is refined into 
sugar. 

About noon we were halted in a large orange grove. This was 
the orange season and the trees were covered with golden, ripened 
fruit; evervone soon helped himself, and the fruit was certainly 
delicious. Manv of the trees were of the navel variety, there- 



106 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

fore the fruit was seedless. As you remove the thin rind, the 
quarters all fall apart. 

We arrived in Santa Tomas in the evening. This town is sit- 
uated in the central portion of a large orange district. Oranges 
were now our principal diet. Our wagon trains joined us here 
from the direction of Colombo, which is on the shore of Laguna 
de Bay, in the direction of Manila. Spanish prisoners now ar- 
rived in our lines and were sent to Manila. The road was a fine 
macadamized highway, and it was easy to pass over this. Along 
the way were fine fields of tobacco, now under cultivation. The 
leaves of this plant were large and broad. Along this highway 
the country was thickly poptdated, but the houses were all de- 
serted and our wagon was soon covered with monkeys and chick- 
ens. The chickens were of the game variety, but this does not 
affect the soldier when he has been without fresh meat for sev- 
eral weeks. The monkeys jumped up and down and were very 
friendlv. When you get near them they will jump on your 
shoulders, throw off your hat, clutch you by the hair and begin to 
look for lice. They really are not looking for lice, but dead hairs 
The ends of these hairs contain a small oil cup of which the mon- 
keys are very fond. On finding one of these they jabber and chat- 
ter and continue their search. One thing is very peculiar about 
these animals. After an American has been about them for a few- 
days they seem to detest their former owners, the Filipinos, and if 
one approaches close enough they will not have anything to do 
with them, but attack them, biting them and squealing with all 
their might. 

We were now approaching Lipa. which is on a high tableland. 
This indeed is a beautiful city, but was now nearly deserted by 
the native population. Here are large convents and churches. 
l^.Iany of the Spanish friars, priests and sisters have remained in 
these convents. Our detachment went into camp here for the 
night, occupying fine residences. This was the home of the great 
Filipino general ]\Ialver, he being in command of the Filipino 
army south of Manila. The walls of his home were covered with 
beautiful paintings and mirrors. This home contained a beauti- 
ful piano, which was at our disposal. After supper, one of our 
boys, who was a musician, furnished us with music, and we had 
a stag dance over finely polished mahogany floors. Nothing 
here was molested in anv wav, and in the morning, before taking 



Campaigning on tiik South Link. 107 

our departure, the floors were swept and everythiiii^- was left in 
good order, and in charge of an American sentry, a memljer of 
the garrison, who \va.s to remain there. 

The Fihpinos thus far had shown poor fighting ahihtv, hut as 
for running, they could not be equalled. Their main army had 
retreated into the mountains to our left, and held a strong position 
at Majayjay, about fifty miles distant; but our column proceeded 
in the direction of Batangas, which is on the Bay of Batangas. 
Here transports were awaiting us, and we were to be given a 
fresh supply of rations, clothing and ammunition. As we ad- 
vanced over this road the cavalry attacked small bands of insur- 
gents, driving them into the mountains and capturing manv. 

This day we made our record march, covering a distance of 
thirty-five miles, from Lipa to Batangas. Some of our boys cap- 
tured a nice young beef along the way. and we slaughtered this, 
taking the meat with us. Arriving in Batangas in the afternoon. 
we secured a large residence for quarters. There we w^ere to re- 
main until supplies were furnished. The next day we went out 
to the bay. The natives who had all deserted the city were now 
returning, bringing with them their worldly possessions. As 
they approached our guards they waved large white flags, placed 
on the ends of sticks. They were permitted to take up their 
dwelling places again, following their former vocation. These 
cities all have a large population of Chinese, some of the wealth- 
iest merchants being Chinamen. Many are married to Filipino 
women. 

As we gained the shore of the bay. we saw a long pier extend- 
ing out into the water. Several boats were tied up here and un- 
loading large quantities of supplies. Near by was a small gun- 
boat which guarded it. Too many boxes were placed on the old 
dock at once and it broke through, manv boxes tumbling into the 
water. They called on the engineer detachment, and they were 
soon busy repairing the break. The whole column was fitted out 
and were soon under way again, going in the direction of !\faiay- 
jay. The roads w'ere rough and it was very difficult to get our 
wagon trains over many places. Our column was now advanc- 
ing over hills and mountains. W^liite flags were again prominent 
and we were forced to build a bridge across a swift mountain 
stream. There was not enough room for all the detachment to 
work, so while one part rested the other part worked. 



108 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

We were now in that part of the village where the natives 
were very friendly. A member of ovir company, a Jew, whose 
name was Gynsbury, poked around some of the houses, and on 
removing a plug from the end of a bamboo, he discovered that on 
the inside of the hollow was a sword. This interested us and all 
were soon searching in every direction. The men of the village 
now disappeared, their wives and children remaining. After an 
hour's searching we discovered four or five guns and fifty or sixty 
bolos. This was a Filipino bolo company, and our column ad- 
vancing so rapidly, they had secreted their outfits, placed out their 
white flags and remained at home. These bolos were about three 
feet long, with a handle; the back of the blade is made of heavy 
steel, the edge as sharp as a razor. They have often attacked 
American outposts with these, on dark nights, creeping up very 
cautiously and making a rush on them soon had them over- 
powered before they were able to defend themselves. The bolo 
men had now disappeared ; our bridge was finished, and soon our 
column was making its way over the rough mountain country. 

In the afternoon we passed a large town which the natives had 
fired, burning it to the ground. We went into camp in the next 
village, it being deserted. The next day, marching to San Pablo, 
the infantry passed us, as we were not able to keep up with the 
wagon trains, the roads being so rough. Night overtook us in a 
thickly wooded country, about four or five miles from San Pablo. 
The infantry guard was now a mile in the rear as it was im- 
possible for them to keep up. We bunched our wagons together, 
placing outposts in every direction. The guards had been or- 
dered to keep a sharp w^atch. as an attack was expected any time 
in this place. On this main road there were two Jews and one 
American placed on watch. We were awakened along in the 
night by the Jews challenging some one, one of them say- 
ing, "Halt! who is dare?" The other one saying, "Halt! who 
stopped?" the American challenging between. These challenges 
remained unanswered and the post opened fire, using their mag- 
azine fire, eighteen shots being fired in less time than it takes to 
tell it. Our detachment all hustled out with rifles and belts ready 
for the attack, but no fire was returned and we were soon back 
asleep again. The moon now arose and the outposts could hear 
a racket out in front, and upon investigating they discovered a 
Filipino pony which had two large packs of rice on its back. It 



Campaigning on tiik South Link. 



109 



was probably one of Ibe pack trains which was carrvinj^- supplies 
to the Filipino army, and on being tired upon this one had be- 
come frightened and turned upside down, the bags of rice hold- 
ing him on his back. This caused hini to kick the air with his 
feet, creating all this disturbance. The animal was released. 
In the morning, after passing through groves of cocoanut trees, 
we arrived in San Pablo, where great excitement prevailed. A 
large detachment of men who liad been sick in the hospitals in 





iH 



A GROUP OF SOLDIERS OFF DUTY IN AN ARMY TENT. 



Manila were returning to join their regiments, which were sta- 
tioned here. They had been ambushed by a strong force of Fil- 
ipinos ; some were killed, some wounded, others captured. The 
enemy was located on the top of a mountain, which was well for- 
tified. This was about five miles east of San Pablo, on the main 
road from San Pablo to Santa Cruz, which is at the end of La- 
guna. 

About 10 o'clock our advance guards were fighting their way 
up through underbrush on the mountain side. The battle lasted 



110 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

until evening. This was called Santiago hill and the Filipinos 
had put up a hard fight, but we had flanked them, forcing them to 
retreat. Our loss was heavy. Here our column went into camp 
on top of this hill or mountain, where our outposts were attacked 
through the night. The next morning the Filipinos retreated in 
the direction of Majayjay and Santa Cruz, the column following 
as rapidly as possible. 

Everyone was now out of rations and began skirmishing for 
pigs, chickens and rice, when near Majayjay, the main column 
going to that place, and the wagon trains, artillery and one bat- 
talion of infantry and a troop of cavalry going to Santa Cruz. 
Our wagon trains were attacked several times in the afternoon. 
Night overtook us near a hill where the Filipinos had expected 
an attack from the direction of Santa Cruz, but our column 
coming in from the rear, they had deserted it, going in the direc- 
tion of Majayjay. 

This hill was well intrenched ; at the foot was an intersection of 
roads, one leading to Majayjay, one to Santa Cruz and one to- 
ward San Pablo. There were large bands of Filipinos scattered 
in every direction, all making for Majayjay, their main strong- 
hold. Our outposts were attacked again this night and an ex- 
change of shots continued throughout the night. Early in the 
morning a messenger arrived from General Schwan, ordering 
every man to Majayjay. The fourteen troops of cavalry, which 
had been operating near Tyabas, southwest of Majayjay, began 
to press in around this boasted stronghold, where the day before 
Filipinos had been walking up and around their intrenchments 
daring the American soldiers to attack them. This day they re- 
treated without firing a shot, our troops not having time enough 
to make the complete movement before they had escaped. Upon 
examining this stronghold. General Schwan declared it was the 
strongest position he had ever seen, and ordered a complete map 
made of it and had it sent to the war department. 

General Malver had retreated to the east with his Filipino 
army. We began the march again and passed back to Magdelena, 
taking Santa Cruz without firing a gun. Here the cavalry and 
pack trains came in and rations and clothing were distributed. 
After being here two days a flag of truce was seen approaching 
along the main road, and in came three or four Filipino officers 
with their guards, approaching General Schwan's headquarters. 



. Campaigning on thk South Line. Ill 

They presented him a note, which informed him that if he did not 
surrender his complete army at once, the city would be attacked, 
and he, Malver, did not wish to have the responsibility of shed- 
ding blood on his shoulders. General Schwan informed his f)f- 
ficers that he would welcome an attack at any time. 

The following day, the Fourth of July, General Malver 
marched his entire army, numbering 1.0,000 men, into the city, 
each one taking the oath of allegiance to the United States, and 
making a complete surrender. 

Here an order reached our captain and our detachment re- 
turned to Manila. Our captain had been promoted to chief en- 
gineer of the Philippine Islands and he now held the rank of 
colonel. 

We placed our equipment aboard cascocs, and our monkey de- 
tachment was also brought aboard. We now had almost as many 
monkeys as men, eight or ten fine ponies and several game cocks. 
We were certainly a laughable sight as we marched through the 
country, our lieutenant remarking, "we had better quit soldiering 
when we reach Manila and travel as a circus company." We 
were all day in crossing the lake, being towed across by a tug; 
the distance was about one hundred miles. No cooking could be 
done aboard the cascoes and we were compelled to eat anything 
w^e laid hands on. Among our rations was a large can of dried 
apples. One of the boys cut the top out, a-.ul we were soon help- 
ing ourselves, eating dried apples and drinking water. In a 
short time the apples began to swell and we were thinking we 
had more than we bargained for. Some of the boys said they had 
to jump around to keep from exploding. Our cascoes arrived 
in Manila that night about twelve o'clock, and we marched to 
Malate, again joining our company headquarters, which were 
stationed permanently at this place. We were now issued new 
clothing and were ordered to proceed with General Bates' column 
to the extreme southern portion of Luzon. 

It was necessary for this expedition to travel by w^ater, as the 
southern part of Tayabas is crossed by a mountain range, extend- 
ing from coast to coast. South of this range are three large 
provinces, viz., AIbi, South Camarine and North Camarine. In 
these provinces the largest portion of hemp is grown, therefore 
making this part of Luzon a desirable tract to be under American 
control. 



112 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

Our detachment was placed on board the chartered boat 
Atheina. Near this boat were several men of war and several 
other vessels. We made our way across Manila bay, passing 
Corregidor, and headed for the south. After two days' sail, pass- 
ing between islands of every description and always in sight of 
land, the sailors one moonlight night pointed out to us the 
Southern Cross. This is composed of five bright stars and is as 
perfect as though marked out by a line. It can not be seen north 
of latitude 4 degrees, but can be observed throughout southern 
latitude. We ran into the cove of Albay, which is on the west coast 
of the islands, and there landed a garrison.. The next morning 
found us in the bay of Lagaspi. As we came on deck we beheld 
rising up before us on the edge of the water, the volcano ^layou, 
which is nearly 10,000 feet high This volcano is very perfectly 
shaped, the cone culminating in a point, from which issues a 
large column of smoke ; streams of lava wend their way down- 
ward. To the left is the city of Lagaspi, and there a regiment 
was landed. The gunboats shelled the shore, driving the Fili- 
pinos back. 

Our boats continued on their way, passing out of Lagaspi bay, 
going around the southern portion of Luzon, and passing up its 
eastern coast to San Miguel Bay; there preparations were made 
for our landing. The water is shallow and boats can only come 
within several miles of the shore, therefore, it was necessary for 
us to make our landing by being rowed in life boats to the shore. 
We were soon driving the Filipinos back to Nueva Caceres, the 
capital of the province. Here they resisted very stubbornly, but 
were forced back. 

Small gunboats and several transports proceeded to the mouth 
of the Vicol river, which is navigable for a distance of fifty 
miles, to the capital. As the gunboats passed along this river, 
shelling the shore, the natives began to retreat, the army following 
them out. Two days later we were in the capital of the province 
of South Camarines. Directly across the island the volcano ap- 
pears, being forty miles in the distance. 

Rations were brought up by boat and the general's headquarters 
established at this place. Directly across the island from. San 
Miguel bay to the west, where lies Pasacow bay, the island was 
only fifteen miles wide from one shore to the other. A garrison 
was now placed at Pasacow, on the bay, and our detachment or- 



C AM I'AICNINC, ()\ Till- Sol'Tll LlNK. 



113 



dered to repair the road and make a ferry acrdss the river, so 
rations could be carried from Nueva Caseres to I'asacow. 'i'liis 
was a very difificnlt task, as there were man\ streams to he 
bridged and we had very httle material to work with. After 
two weeks of tedious work, skirmishing after lumber, we covered 
the distance of fifteen miles, building forty-five bridges. 

Pasacow is a very interesting ])lact', as it is located in the moun- 
tains and on the shore of a beautiful ba\-. Here lare:e droves of 




WATER BUFFALOS AND NATIVE. 



bats can be seen flying hither and thither. They are very large, 
being as large as the crow or hawk. At dusk as they flew about 
flapping their wings, creating an awful noise, the soldiers imag- 
ined the Filipinos had attacked them in Hying machines. These 
mountain sides were covered with fine mahogany trees. They 
were of a great height and free from limbs, except in the tops, the 
trunks being straight. Beautiful boards are sawed from these 
trees. The water here in the mountains was very ])ure, there be- 
ing manv springs. Here some of us saw for the tirst time the 



114 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

largest birds in the world, the condor. This magnificent species 
of birds, as they sit on these mahogany trees, with their red, white 
and gray spotted heads, gray bodies and white wings, make a 
beautiful picture. Oftentimes we have tried our marksmanship 
on them, but never were cunning enough to secure one. They 
would fly ofif, screaming, and cause one to gaze after them in 
astonishment. Here in deep ravines we often saw a large animal 
resembling an alligator, except they have longer legs and a 
pointed nose. Their skin is dark, smooth and slimy, resembling 
a snake. Some of the largest are perhaps eight or ten feet in 
length. They are of a sneaking nature and as their small eyes 
glisten in the distance, they give one the creeps. They are known 
here as the lagarto. 

There are lizards of many descriptions, one specie being trans- 
parent and the color of the object upon which they perch. Here 
also grows the sensitive plant, which, on being touched, the 
leaves close up and wilt, reviving again after darkness. 

After passing two days in this mountainous country, we re- 
turned again to Nueva Caceres. One Sunday great excitement 
prevailed here. The sentry while on outpost, which is in the 
suburbs of the town, had a deck of cards, playing solitaire; his 
comrades were upstairs, asleep, it being his turn for duty. A na- 
tive approached him with a large basket and asked him if he 
wished to buy some eggs. "No." replied the sentry, and con- 
tinued pla}ing the game. The native stepped back, drew a bolo 
from under his clothes, slashed him across the back of the neck, 
severing the head from the body, and then ran away. The re- 
mainder of the guard hearing the noise, ran out. but were too 
late to see the retreating insurrecto. The alarm was given, scout- 
ing parties sent out, who secured several natives who had climbed 
trees to be out of the way, but were never certain if they had got 
the proper one. 

The volcano, Mayou, now had begun to show signs of unrest, 
the atmosphere became full of soot, and it was now impossible 
to see the sun. The natives informed us that it had been thirty 
years since the last eruption. It had then destroyed several vil- 
lages and towns. This haziness continued for one week or more. 
The atmosphere then became clear again, but the smoke con- 
tinued to roll out in greater streams than before. About a week 
later, late in the night, we were all awakened by a tremendous 



Campaigning on the South Line. II5 

earthquake, there being- separate shocks, one kisting about two 
minutes. Nearly everyone ran down stairs, all thinkhig the house 
would turn upside down. This was probably caused by the filling 
in of the cavity caused by the soot and ashes, which came out of 
the volcano. 

Our detachment was now ordered to Iriga, which is twenty-five 
miles distant, at the foot of Alt. Iriga. Here we were to repair 
roads and build several bridges so our wagon trains could carrv 
rations to this place. Approaching Palestine, which is about six 
miles from Iriga, is a leper hospital. What pitiful beings they 
were, as they came to the gateway which was the entrance to 
their grounds, to watch us pass by with our mules and wagons. 
About three miles further on we were attacked Ijy a small band 
of insurrectos, but we soon had them dispersed and passed on to 
the village of Peli and remained there several days, repairing 
bridges and roads. Here we captured quite a number of insur- 
rectos and put them to work on the roads. This is in the hemp 
district. These plants or trees are called paco, resembling some- 
what a banana tree, being about ten or twelve feet in height, with 
large leaves extending from the tops. The body is soft and juicy, 
being about one foot thick. They are cut down with bolos in 
three and four foot lengths, and then split in quarters. These 
are full of fine fibers. There is a wooden bench made with 
wooden teeth extending up and down, the ends being placed be- 
tween these teeth and drawn through, thus separating the fibers 
from the meat or juicy pulp. These fibers are then hung up and 
dried, placed in bales and shipped to ]\Ianila, where they are 
made into rope. The finest and whitest of these fibers are woven 
into cloth and make a beautiful, thin goods called pina. The na- 
tives make shirts from this, which serve as coat and vest also. 

Xear here is a large, pointed mountain, called Isarog. This 
perhaps, one day was a volcano. It is now covered with vegeta- 
tion and trees. This is a stronghold for the insurrectos and they 
cause a great deal of trouble, coming out and terrorizing the 
peaceable natives, robbing them and then returning to their hiding 
place in the mountains. We now came to a swift mountain 
stream, the bridge across which was old, had fallen in and it was 
necessary to ford this stream. It would have taken one vear to 
bridge it, even if we had had the proper material to build it with. 
Near here are low rolling hills, the road running along the foot 



116 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

of them. This is fine grazing ground, and thousands of large 
cattle can be seen here. We secured fresh beef, as the owner 
informed us we might help ourselves whenever we wished to. 
We passed through large cocoanut groves and here natives were 
busy baling hemp, cutting and separating it. We soon arrived 
at Irigo. The natives had set fire to this town, burning it nearly 
to the ground, but had returned again and were building it up. 
This is a health resort and there are many mineral springs boiling 
up at the foot of the mountain, the water being pure and clear. 
At the foot of these mountains are several perfume factories. 
Here a small flower grows on long, thin vines. The scent of 
these is so strong that one approaching may detect the odor hun- 
dreds of yards away. This. is called Lyanglyang. From this, 
perfume is made and shipped into Manila and other large cities. 

Passing on to the left, we traveled ten or twelve miles, passing 
through a district where there are large mounds, some of them at- 
taining quite a height. They are about one mile apart and con- 
tinue in the direction of the volcano as far as the eye can see. 
Returning in the direction of Irigo, we took up our quarters for 
the night in a Filipino barracks, constructed from bamboo. We 
were awakened at midnight by a number of shots. Holding a 
number of Filipino prisoners, we thought they were attacking us 
to recapture them. In the morning we were informed that a 
wealthy Filipino, living near, had disposed of his hemp crop and 
a band of Ladrones upon learning this, had attacked him, rob- 
bing him of his money and then killing him and his family. 
Authorities had been notified in Irago and were now searching 
for the robbers, who had made their way to the mountains and 
there was little hope of capturing them. 

We now returned to the capital of the province. The insur- 
gents here had grown very bold, as there were not sufficient troops 
to garrison small villages and the insurrectos would come out, 
rob the inhabitants and cause them to flee to larger cities, where 
there were American troops. Upon arriving in this town we 
found very few troops here, as the majority were out chasing 
bands of insurrectos. Guns had been issued to the military band 
of the Forty-fifth Infantry and they were doing guard duty. 
As soon as we arrived we were placed on guard duty, relieving 
them. About six miles up the Vicol river, above the city in the 
bend of the river, the insurgents had intrenched themselves and 



Campaigning on tiik South Link. 117 

allowed no one to pass up or down unless they paid toll. Larj^e 
quantities of hemp came dowm this river to the town ; they would 
hold up these cascoes and if the owner did not pay a certain 
amount on each bale, they would dump the lot into the river and 
send the owner to return home. A detachment of the Forty- 
fifth Infantry was sent to drive them out, and instead of accom- 
plishing this, the insurgents drove them back into town. Our 
commanding general sent our detachment, which consisted of 
forty-five men, fifteen mounted men, and two mountain guns. 
On Sunday morning we received orders to proceed. Crossing 
the river on the ferry which we had built, passing up the right 
bank, we were soon nearing the bend of the river, where the in- 
surgents were intrenched. On the way we passed through a 
large deserted town, from wdiich the natives had fled to the cap- 
ital so as to be under American protection. A comrade and I 
were in the advance on the point and when we came to the bend 
of the river the insurrectos fired a volley from the opposite side. 
Their aim was poor and the shots whizzed far above our heads. 
Our lieutenant came riding up and inquired what we had been 
shooting at, when about that time another volley came by and he 
dismounted, getting behind a rice paddie, and asked no more 
questions. 

Our detachment of artillery was now brought up and a tight 
ensued across the river. Our cavalry detachment, passing in the 
rear, slipped across the river above and attacked their left flank. 
The Filipinos were now approaching across a large rice field; 
these were their re-enforcements, and after several hours of firing, 
they w^ere driven out, retreating toward the mountains. The 
cavalrv, on crossing the river, had left their horses on our side 
and now a band had attacked them, and our detachment had to 
double time across to where they w^ere tied. After separating, 
the detachment executed a flank movement, one part charging 
across a long field, the other attacking on the right flank and 
driving them back and dispersing them. An order had been 
given that to any village from which the Filipinos were firing the 
torch should be applied. This was done, and soon there was a 
line of smoke pouring up in every direction and the president or 
mayor of Nueva Caceres, who had accompanied us, also several 
native police, were now in high glee, and as we returned they 
executed all sorts of side-steps, dancing along in front of us like 



118 Around thk World with Uncle Sam. 

a band of braves on the warpath. It was after dark when we ar- 
rived in town, and there an order was awaiting us to proceed to 
Pasacow at once. A detachment in the company at that was 
going to the capital for rations, and while crossing a long bridge 
which had been constructed by us, a large force of Filipinos had 
taken a position on a steep hill to the left and fired from ambush, 
wounding several and killing one. Being unable to drive them 
out, and the telegraph line being cut, they were unable to send 
messages, therefore they sent a force in a roundabout way, who 
had brought us the news. Furnishing ourselves with rations and 
ammunition, we hurried off through the dark, as our detachment 
was familiar with every part of this road, having worked over it 
a month or so previous. At daylight we divided into squads 
and approached from side paths from every direction, and cau- 
tiously crept up on their position. As we gained the top of the 
hill there was nothing to be seen but the remnant of their camp. 
"The bird had flown." These hills and mountains were hot beds 
for the insurgents and they could slip out and ambush a small 
squad of soldiers, return and hide in the mountain caves and 
canons, where it was nearly impossible to find them. There were 
not sufiicient troops here to handle the situation and a regiment 
of cavalry and one of infantry had been ordered here. All plans 
being carried out to try and capture these hostile bands, we re- 
turned to the capital. There were scarcely any troops there at all, 
as most of them were out chasing bands of insurgents. Here we 
went into quarters again, cleaning up, and awaiting another call 
to go out and chase bands of insurrectos. 



i^ 


1 



CHAPTER VIII. 

BACK TO MANILA — SAILING FOR CHINA — TlIK HATTLK OI' TIKXTSIN. 

ATR^E police had been organized in the towns sur- 
rounding the capital and presidents or mayors ap- 
pointed. The police were armed with Remington 
rifles so as to be able to protect themselves against 
insurrectos. At Calibanga, there were a large num- 
ber of native police. The city government had four thousand 
pesos in the city treasury. A large band of insurrectos had 
learned of this by two spies- who were around in the village. 
Thev had attacked the town at night, drove the natives all out and 
robbed the treasury of the money. 

The chief of police held his ground, but the odds were against 
him, and they secured the money and fled, he firing on them with 
his Winchester rifle as they withdrew. An order soon reached 
our detachment, and we were on their trail, capturing eight or 
ten of them. (3ne of the lieutenants of the band was among the 
captives. These w^e turned over to the civil police. We took up 
our quarters in the edge of the village and consulted with the 
chief of police. We then began a rigid search for the money. 
He declared that they had not been able to carry it oft" with them, 
and that it surely was hidden there. He suspected a native 
woman, who was the wife of the captain of the band. They had 
a fine residence here, she staying at home while he was out with 
his band of thieves. A number of us, in company with the chief 
approached their home and surrounded it. The chief then 
searched every part of the premises, but did not discover the 
money. The woman pleaded ignorance in regard to the matter. 
We kept close guard through the night, but found no clue what- 
ever. The next day the chief appeared again at their home and 
infonued the woman if she did not reveal the hiding place she 
would have to go to prison. This did not appear to frighten 
her and placing her under arrest, we took her a short distance 
from the house. Then the chief secured a large bunch of dry 
grass and after lighting it started in the direction of her home, 
savino- to her, "You know where that money is secreted, and if 



120 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

you don't tell me this minute, I will burn your house to the 
ground." She began to scream, "I'll tell you ! I known where 
it is !" and after going about five hundred yards in the rear of 
the house to a cocoanut tree, she removed a large amount of brush 
and grass. Then digging in the ground for a few moments the 
money was produced with a number of papers which gave the 
names of the members of the insurrecto's company. She was 
now told to tell her husband that if he did not come in and sur- 
render, there would soon be a large number of troops there to 
scour the whole mountain until they found him. We returned 
the money to the police headquarters and after counting it, dis- 
covered several thousand pesos more than the amount stolen. 
This money was turned over to the general's headquarters, where 
it was used in remodeling bridges and roads, hiring natives to do 
this work. 

The prisoners whom we had turned over to the police were in 
a pitiful condition. They had used bolos, cutting the leaders 
above the heel on the left foot. We shamed them and told them 
this was a cruel practice, to cripple men in this way. They told 
us this had been a Spanish custom and they thought it would be 
all right, as these were three of the most desperate characters they 
had in their community. 

A cavalry regiment had now arrived and we received orders to 
■return to the capital ; from there to Manila. Arriving in Nueva 
Caceres, we found a small boat awaiting us. This was to take 
us out into the bay to the transport, Lenox, which was to convey 
us to Manila. Having been in this portion of the island over 
three months, most of us had many acquaintances among the na- 
tives. They were very sorry to see us leave and shook hands, 
bidding us good-bye and asking us if we were returning to the 
United States and what kind of a country it was. As our boat 
pulled away from the dock, we gave them three cheers, and wav- 
ing them adieu, passed out of sight. A few hours later our small 
craft brought us alongside the Lenox and we were soon aboard. 
The anchor was lifted and our boat passed out of San Miguel bay 
for the island of Masbate. 

This boat was used for the transportation of horses and mules 
to the Philippine Lslands. It could accommodate about eight 
hundred animals on one voyage. In the hulk were thousands of 
bales of hav and we had to stop at the island of Masbate and 



Off Fok China. 121 

jMarincluque to deliver hay for animals at these places. When wc 
arrived at the principal port a rej^inieiit was just landing-. The 
insurgents had made a complete surrender, delivering- their arms 
and ammunition to the American forces. 

The next day we arrived at Marinduque. Leaving here the 
following day we arrived at the entrance to Manila hay at sinn-ise. 
Crossing the bay and dropping anchor, we were soon with our 
company headquarters at Malate. Here new clothing was issued 
to us and we were soon in respectable condition again. 

News was now brought from China, of a great movement there, 
to drive all foreigners from that country. An outbreak was ex- 
pected almost any time. A large expedition of marines had been 
landed at Taku and were making their way to Peking to protect 
the foreign legations which were located at the capital. This was 
known as the great Boxer movement. And now every one was 
reading of the murder of missionaries in the interior of the 
country. Many missionaries were making their way to seacoast 
cities, and stories were told of their hardships and trials. 

The movement seemed to be spreading over all China. Foreign 
countries were concerned, as all powers had ministers with lega- 
tions in Peking. The Chinese government had declared they were 
unable to protect the legations. They notified them to leave 
Peking and proceed to the coast where they could be protected 
by men of war. It was thought that each country would have to 
land an army and proceed to Peking to protect their legation 
and missionaries, which had poured into the legations at that place 
for safety and protection. Manila was making great strides to- 
ward improvement. A civil commission from the United States 
had arrived and public schools were being established over the 
city ; one could observe a decided change for the better. Natives 
were becoming more friendly and many were beginning to learn 
our language very rapidly. One disappointment was they ap- 
peared to learn the bad part of our language first. About the first 
thing they learned was to swear. 

Oftentimes upon asking them a question they would repl}' with 
a filthy remark, not knowing what it meant. This could be easily 
overcome with proper education, and the civil commission was 
using every means possible for their education and enlightenment. 
At this time the city seemed infested with saloons and low dives. 
A street running parallel with our quarters was named the 



122 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

Bowery. Here on one block were ten or twelve saloons. Native 
musicians were in these places with mandolins and guitars, and 
passing along this street it would remind you of the great 
Bowery of New York. Many soldiers frequented these places. 
We noticed in our company a certain portion of the men were 
never out on expeditions, but on our return we would see them 
around the company headquarters, neat and clean, spending most 
of their time in these dives, fighting their battles and having their 
skirmishes with one another over glasses of beer, while the Fili- 
pino musicians furnished them with music. Efiforts were made 
to get these men out on expeditions with us, but after the first 
day or two they would appear before the doctor, with such pitiful 
faces that they were sent to the hospital, then transported to the 
First Reserve hospital in Manila, where after a week's treatment 
they were sent back to their company and did such, guard duty as 
was necessary. These were soon named "coffee coolers" and 
"home guards." 

Of course there were some who really were sick, but on re- 
covering they were ready to do their share of duty. A certain 
per cent, of our company and I suppose of others also, were men 
who never did very much real work, and had fine hospital records. 
One thing remarkable among the natives was that not many were 
seen carousing or dissipating. On a Sabbath morning we could 
see them attending services with their famdies. After these ser- 
vices were over they returned home, and gathered up their game 
roosters and proceeded to the pits for the day. Here they made 
bets on the fighting qualities of these birds, and one could see 
money changing hands very rapidly. Sunday appeared to be the 
day for this sport and on holidays this is also a favorite pastime. 
There appeared to be a holiday once a week, and at times they 
had fiestas lasting one week at a time. Almost every village or 
town we passed through had pits for rooster fighting. I suppose 
if this favorite pastime was to be stopped instantly, it would 
cause a general insurrection throughout the island. Perhaps the 
proper plan would be to educate and teach them gradually, and 
show them that this is not right. 

It was now certain that an expedition would be called to China. 
Communications were cut off from Peking and it was not known 
whether the envoys were alive or not. The Ninth Infantry was 
brought into Manila and fitted out for this first expedition. 



Ofi? for China. 



123 



General McArthnr was now commanding- .general in the Philip- 
pines, the former commanding general, Otis, having returned to 
the United States. This Ninth Regiment of Infantry had been 
through the north line with General McArthur's division. They 
had seen hard service for nearly two years, were a good regiment, 
and were now to go on the first expedition to China. A detach- 
ment of twenty men from the Engineer Corps and a detachment 
of Signal Corps w^ere to proceed also. It was supposed another 
regiment and artillery would follow as soon as possible. 




A GROUP OF ARMY CORPORALS. 



One morning a list was hung up on our company bulletin board, 
and looking over this I saw ^ my name on this, ordering us to 
equip ourselves with clothing and be in readiness to leave in a 
day or so. This was a select detachment and no names could be 
seen of "home guards" or "coffee coolers." j\Iany were very 
anxious to go but if they had gone, they would probably have 
lasted about two days and they then would have been in the 
hospital. 



124 Around thu World with Uncle Sam. 

The Taku forts had been attacked and captured by the foreign 
powers. The Americans had not taken part in this, the govern- 
ment wishing to keep out of difificuhies as much as possible. This 
had broken the last straw and the whole Chinese Army had now 
joined forces with the Boxers, and the Chinese government was 
now helpless so they had to join forces also with the Boxers to 
save themselves. The marines which had proceeded in the direc- 
tion of Peking had retreated back near Tientsin. Here they were 
surrounded in an old Chinese fort and it was not known whether 
they would be able to escape or not. Along about the 8th of 
June we marched down to the docks along the passage, stepped 
aboard a tug and were soon on board the great army transport 
Logan. This great vessel had been fitted out for American sol- 
diers. This was the largest boat we had ever been on, and every 
effort had been taken to make it as comfortable as possible for 
the men. She was about 500 feet in length. The bunks were neat 
and comfortable and everything was clean. We were furnished 
with a mess deck, tables being arranged so one could eat with 
comfort. There was a library on board and if you wished to read 
you could secure a book at any time. The Ninth Infantry was 
now on board and there was plenty of room for every one. We 
were soon crossing the bay taking a look at Mount Aryat, as this 
was a land mark we all recognized. 

Passing by Corregidor, turning to our right we started our 
course across the China Sea, to the northward sailing for the 
harbor of Nagasaki. This great vessel plowed through the waves, 
there being no rolling or rocking and it seemed as steady as a 
clock as we made our way along. Every day the Ninth Infantry 
band gave us a concert, which was well appreciated. We would 
talk together with the infantry about our campaigning on the 
north line as our detachment had been with them on many expedi- 
tions and skirmishes. Many pleasant hours were passed in this 
way. After three days of uneventful sailing our lookout reported 
land, which proved to be the island of Formosa. At first it ap- 
peared like a mighty cloud in the distance. This island is con- 
trolled by the Japanese, they having acquired it after the war with 
China, about ten years previous. We followed the shore for two 
days and then sighted the island of Kinshu on which Nagasaki is 
situated. In the morning at daylight the pilot appeared in his 
boat stepped aboard and took charge of the wheel and we were 



Off for China. 125 

soon entering one of the most beautiful harbors in the world. A 
boat with a yellow flag approached, our speed was diminished 
and the quarantine doctors came aboard. The troops were all 
lined up along the decks and these two neat little men in uniforms 
passed along the line of large American soldiers peering into their 
faces for marks of sickness or disease, looking like schoolboys 
who are just attending school. They were very polite to our doc- 
tors, conversing in broken English. Directly our quarantine flag 
was hauled down from the foremast and we were making our way 
slowly past the forts on high bluffs ; we soon passed into the 
harbor. 

Here high hills and mountains can be seen in every direction, 
and our vessel was soon passing boats of every description. As 
our anchor was lowered about three miles from shore, small 
boats approached from every direction, swarming around us like 
bees. In these were Japanese selling souvenirs and trinkets of 
every description and tailors with samples of clothing, soliciting 
your orders for tailor made clothes. It appeared as though one 
did not need to land and go into the city, as these little brown 
men could supply you with anything you wished from their small 
bom-boats. Soon small vessels laden with coal were run along 
side and hundreds of natives, men, women and children, many of 
of the women with their children tied upon their backs were 
brought along side in large lighters. Then small round baskets 
woven from tough straw appeared, a small gangway was placed 
up against the ship from the coal bunkers, a double line was made 
from the coal barge to our vessel, the baskets were filled with 
coal and passed along from Irand to hand and soon the coal came 
streaming up. These were then passed back to be refilled, and 
passed on again on the opposite line. ^len, women and children 
were engaged in this, and it was certainly amusing to watch them 
—talking, laughing and singing all the while. Many of the small 
children who are tied on their mothers' backs pass the time away 
and amuse themselves by biting on chunks of coal. 

Perhaps no harbor in the world has a more ancient custom of 
coaling ships than this one. We received passes to go ashore and 
look over the city. Entering a bom-boat we were soon ashore, 
where there were hundreds of Japanese with "jinrikishas." 
These were tw^o-wheeled carriages, .very small and neat, with a 
top, and were drawn by men. One at first feels uncomfortable but 



126 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

they are so eager to haul you, that one can hardly refuse them. 
Stepping into one of these carriages, the two little husky brown 
men are soon drawing you over smooth pavements. One does not 
feel very comfortable, but then you can console yourself by the 
old saying "When you are in Rome do as the Romans do." But 
it does seem hard to see these human beings making beasts of 
themselves. 

We visited several places of interest, several temples and a 
park where General Grant on his tour around the world had 
planted a tree. This is prosperous and is well cared for; they 
point it out with great pride. Their method of agriculture seems 
odd. Most of the buildings are very small and neat. The streets 
are patrolled by police, who carry swords. Carriages were not 
seen as the "rikishas"' take their place. Small horses or ponies 
were used for draying purposes. There were no street cars here 
at this time, but a railway runs from this place into the interior of 
the island. The Japanese government has a shipyard here 
where small gunboats were made, and dry docks where larger 
vessels could be repaired. Quite a number of Americans were 
in business here, many of them being ex-soldiers from the 
Philippines. 

In two days our vessel was coaled up, the United States cruiser 
Brooklyn coming into the harbor while we lay there. The battle- 
ship Oregon passed out just ahead of us bound for Taku. Several 
of the Japanese men of war were being repaired as they had been 
damaged while attacking the Taku forts. Every one was now 
aboard and w-e left this beautiful little harbor, making our way 
out into the Yellow Sea, sailing to the northwest toward Taku, 
and after a day or two we passed into the Gulf of Pechili. The 
water now had a yellow cast, caused by the rivers of China empty- 
ing into this gulf or sea, their banks being of yellow clay. This 
is why it is called the Yellow Sea. We now passed in sight of 
Port Arthur. This great Gibraltar of the east had been captured 
bv the Japanese during their war with China, but was now under 
Russian control and is the termination of the great Trans-Siberian 
railwav. We now sighted the masts of many vessels and as our 
boat approached near one imagined that the whole gulf was filled 
with these vessels. We passed many Chinese junks. Their sails 
were the square rigging and they were perhaps modeled after the 
ancient type of two thousand years before this time. They looked 



Off For China. 



127 



much out of place as our lar.ye steamer went rollint; by them 
waiting neither for wind or tide. 

Our boat now passed vessels of every description. Our band 
was on the main deck playing- the national airs of England, 
Germany, France, Russia, Italy and Japan. As we passed by 
these flags soon the Stars and Stripes were sighted and the band 
took up the tune of The Star Spangled Banner, the men cheering 
and waving their hats. The Jackies on board appeared on deck 



-a^&*>« -s i^^.fff^^"^ 





Tr Jf 



it^ 




::iX>'^^^ 



UNLOADING HEMP FOR MANILA, NAICE, CAVITE PROVINCE, P. I. 



answering our salute. The anchor was lowered and we were ly- 
ing ofif Taku, China, where every world power was represented, 
and a mixed army of nearly every country was landing to go to 
the relief of their missionaries and envoys, who were now besieged 
in the capital of the most densely populated country in the world. 
Our commanding officer was soon in comnumication with the 
navy department, and they sent out small steam launches in 
search of lighters that we might land as we could not get nearer 
shore than ten miles. There were many Japanese transports, and 
thev were landing soldiers by the thousands, the English govern- 



128 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

ment landing; many East Indian troops, and the Russians sending 
over many troops from Port Arthur. After searching for one or 
two days hghters were secured; and now the transport Port 
Albert with mules, horses, army transportation wagons and 
ambulances arrived and we were transferred to this boat, loading 
up lighters wdth horses, mules and wagons of every description. 

The Ninth Infantry had already disembarked and gone to- 
wards Tientsin. Mules were taken into Taku and we made our 
way in there at night, in life boats towed by small launches, ar- 
riving at Taku about daylight. What a dilapidated place it is. 
Everything resembling mud. The water in the river is so muddy 
that it looks thick. We searched every place for water to make 
coffee ; at last we found it aboard an old United States gunboat, 
i\Ionocracy, which had been in service here in the Peiho river, 
around Tientsin and Taku, since the Civil War. 

A railroad runs from here to Tientsin which is about forty 
miles distant. The Russians had charge of this, and it was 
operated to within ten miles of Tientsin, wdiere a large bridge had 
been destroyed by the Chinese. That was as far as they were able 
to proceed until it had been repaired. The native portion of the 
town here looked as though it was all mud, most of the houses 
are constructed from clay, the roofs being woven in with corn- 
stalks and mud placed over the top, which is baked in the sun and 
allows the water to run off. There were no Chinese here now 
except a few servants of officers. Many missionaries were pass- 
ing down the rivers on lighters and barges. Many going aboard 
the transport Logan. There was a Russian garrison in this town 
and many of their wounded were now coming in here from 
Tientsin, where they had been fighting. We soon had many 
wagons and mules loaded aboard the train, traveling in the 
direction of Tientsin. 

For a distance the country is low and sw^ampy, very few trees 
are to be seen and it makes one about half homesick. After 
traveling several miles there was a rise in the surface of the 
ground, and to the right about two miles on a point there is a 
Chinese village, which looked like a large chunk of clay in the 
distance. No Chinese were in sight and a little farther on we 
passed a Russian guard. These were "Cossacks" and were patrol- 
ling with their Siberian horses. The horses somewhat resemble 
mustangs. These soldiers were rough looking fellows, heavy set 



Opp for China. 129 

and well proportioned, many liaxini;- l)cards and Ixini,'- coarse 
featured. \\'e passed many of these detachments aloni;- the rail- 
road; now they consisted of Russians and Japanese. Thev 
camped within a sliort distance from one another. 

Looking ofif several miles to the left one could discern 
long rows of green trees. The soil is now covered with green 
grass and it begins to look more like a civilized ])lace to live in. 
Boats ar-e visible on the Peiho river. The ground seems lower 
and one imagines they are crossing the land on wheels as the 
water is not visible. Small villages can be seen dotted among 
the trees that have a more respectable appearance. They are 
constructed from bricks, many of them being well designed. Our 
train had now reached the wrecked bridge, where a large force of 
Russian engineers were at work repairing it. Here we unloaded 
and began hitching the mules to the wagons and ambulances, 
loading them with rations and supplies. Here were Russian and 
Japanese guards. Our commander had a Japanese interpreter, 
and they were soon consulting in regard to the wagon road to 
Tientsin. The Japanese officer furnished us with a mounted guide 
as they were familiar wdth the country. As our large army 
transportation wagons with their white canvas covers and large 
covered ambulances drawn by four clean and sleek mules passed 
along, the Russian and Japanese guards stood staring at us with 
open mouths. Perhaps wondering where these curious looking 
outfits came from. The road was good and solid and our mules 
made good time. This country was under fine cultivation, and 
large gardens with straight rows of many different kinds of vege- 
tables were seen. To the right a short distance was a large Chi- 
nese arsenal, which the Russians had captured. They had a strong 
guard here and a Russian general was inspecting his troops. As 
we approached they gazed at us with wonder, the inspection was 
suspended and a sign was made for us to stop. A general and a 
large number of his staff approached us. One of our teamsters 
could speak the Russian language and he acted as interpreter. 
This general wanted to inspect our outfit ; then with our com- 
mander he observed every part of it, and declared it tlu^ finest 
army field transportation he had ever seen. He inquired what 
four mules like those would cost. Our commander told him in 
the United States they would cost about seven hundred dollars, 
but after transporting them to the Philippines and China it 



130 Around the; World with Uncle Sam. 

doubles their value and probably now, they would be worth 
fifteen hundred dollars. He remarked that our government must 
be wealthy. We now proceeded in the direction of Tientsin, 
where a great battle was being fought. We were now in a large 
Chinese village at the edge of the wall of Tientsin. There lay 
several dead Chinamen, and a large pack ol sneaking, ugly dogs 
were eating away at them. This gave me a hatred for Chinese 
dogs and I never could bear sight of one thereafter. The sound 
of guns came nearer and we crossed a pontoon bridge over the 
Peiho river, passing many Japanese and Russian guards. Here 
brick structures had been pierced by artillery. No Chinese were 
in sight for they had all been driven inside the walled city of 
Tientsin, where the fighting was raging. Russians, Japanese, 
English, French, Germans and Americans were fighting side by 
side. Our wagon train stopped at the American headquarters 
in a large Chinese coffin works. Gates had been battered down 
and troops were now forcing their way into the Chinese city of 
Tientsin, around which is a wall 35 feet high and 25 feet thick. 

The tops of these walls are loop-holed and Chinese artillery had 
poured a murderous fire from the top of this wall. The colonel 
of the Ninth Infantry had been killed and several hundred officers 
and men killed and wounded. These soldiers had advanced 
against this wall and had got within two hundred yards of it ; it 
is surrounded by a large moat filled with water. The Chinese 
had gathered their forces on the wall in front of the attacking 
partv, they being behind a mud embankment and were not able to 
advance or retreat. The battalion of marines under Major Waller 
in company with a force of English, had forced their way through 
the gate on the left. The Japanese forcing their way through the 
right gate and thus relieving them. The firing still continued for 
a week longer in every part of the city. The Chinese had left 
everything behind and looting was done in every part of the city. 
Men, women and children were shot and the soldiers fired on any 
one who resembled a Chinaman. 

This was a terrible spot for the next two weeks, and it was 
estimated that 30,000 dead Chinamen were in and about the city. 
Colonel Liscum's body was placed in a Chinese coffin, placed 
aboard a boat and taken to Taku, where it was buried. This was 
the greatest battle of the allied forces' advance toward Peking. 
Thousands of Chinese non-combatants were beginning to make 



Off for China. 131 

their appearance around the city. The fi^hlinj;- here was over, 
and the Chinese army had retreated to Peisans;-, where they were 
intrenching themselves. This place is on the Peiho river, in the 
direction of Peking. Detachments were sent out to secure 
Chinese, bringing them into the city, and setting them to work 
cleaning up, and burying the dead. These were pitiable looking 
objects with their blue cotton clothing, long cues and cloth shoes, 
many of them being filthy and dirty. This was the poorer class 
of Chinese, and they were the ones who suffered greatest at this 
time. 

Large quantities of rice had been secured in store houses and 
all Chinese working under American guard, were fed and re- 
ceived ten cents per day. This news soon circulated and the 
Americans had more laborers than they could take charge of. 

Tientsin is built along the banks of the Peiho river. This is a 
dirty, filthy stream, the water is at no time clear and is not even 
fit to bathe in. Small gunboats and boats of light draft can 
navigate as far as Tientsin. Junks are used north of Tientsin 
towards Peking, these being built with flat bottoms and about 
thirty or forty feet in length. They can carry heavy loads and are 
polled up the river or a rope is placed to the front end and men 
from the shore draw them along. Tientsin is built in two parts, 
the Chinese city and the foreign city. The Chinese population is 
about 1,000,000. It is surrounded by a high wall constructed 
from large gray brick, which are placed on the edges,, the center 
filled in with clay, which becomes baked, and tough and it is al- 
most impossible to break through this. There are four principal 
streets, tw^o running north and south, and two east and west. The 
side streets are very narrow, some of them hardly permitting two 
men to pass. These streets cross each other and run in every 
direction, and of course it will take an expert to keep from getting 
lost in these places. People live in here like rats and after one 
visits these places it does not surprise you at the amount of 
plagues the country contains. Wealthy Chinamen have more 
room to live in and finer residences, and in this country one may 
see what power wealth has. 

Foreign Tientsin is south of the Chinese city. This part is 
built on modern plans ; fine broad streets and avenues, shade trees, 
and it seems like going from darkness into light as you pass from 
one to the other. Foreign Tientsin is inhabited by Europeans and 



132 Akounh Til]-; W^jrld with Uncle Sam. 

Americans. Large missions have been built and missionaries 
gather in native children, educating them and teaching them 
Christianity. A great many missionary societies are represented 
here from all parts of the world. This city is spread over a 
great area of ground and at the southern portion along the banks 
of the river is an immense structure called the Tientsin Univer- 
sity. This was built by the Chinese government and English, 
German and American instructors employed. A certain number 
of Chinese scholars are placed in here each year, where they 
take a course and graduate. The president of this university at 
this time was Professor Tinney, an American. It was rumored 
that the Chinese government in order to save and preserve this 
building had transferred it to this man. Our detachment needed 
several draftsmen for completing our maps and upon recom- 
mendation from the professor of this college our officers em- 
ployed a graduate by the name of Chang. He remained with us 
all through the service in China. We gained very much valuable 
information from this man, he being one of the most intelligent 
Chinamen we had ever met, and able to speak English very 
fluently. The city now had a cleaner appearance, and thousands 
of soldiers were arriving daily, mostly Japanese, Russians and 
English. The English soldiers were East India troops, trans- 
ported from Singapore and other points ni India. Thev were 
tall, dark and neat in appearance, very superstitious, most of 
them being Mohammedans. It appeared as though every officer 
and soldier had a servant with them, they being in their native 
dress, with their large turbans bound about their heads and 
scarcely any clothing covering their bodies, looking as though 
they had too much head. The tribe most largely represented was 
Sikhs and we nicknamed these bands of servants, which followed 
their army in droves the "Ragged Sikhs." 

The Japanese army was very neat and when a regiment was 
lined up every man looked the same size, and as our bovs re- 
marked when you see one Japanese soldier you have seen the 
whole army, they resemble one another so much. The Russians 
were large, heavy, awkward looking fellows, moving about very 
slowly and clumsily, wearing boots and when a companv went 
marching down the street, their boots striking the ground, made 
a sound which would echo and could be heard quite a distance. 
The French soldiers were neat, with the exception of their uni- 



Off for China. 133 

forms, which looked as if they had heen made for clowns, instead 
of soldiers. The Germans were well uniformed and pleasant look- 
ing men. but on seeing them walk or march about you could plain- 
ly see the very severe training antl you would imagine they were 
machine soldiers, everything they did wa^^ precise and had a 
military air about it. 

The real English soldier somewhat resembles the (icrman. as 
their walk shows military training, and you never see them out 
of their tents without their blouses buttoned up. and when out 
on an ordinarv walk, or when turning to right or left executing 
flank marches as though they were tinder orders, or on the drill 
ground. It seemed odd to see the American soldiers mingling 
with this mixed army ; these tall fellow^s in their shirt sleeves, their 
light shoes and leggings taking their long easy strides, their broad 
brimmed campaign hats, making them look more like civilians. 
These could be marked as far as the eye could see. We had 
several Germans in our detachment and many German soldiers 
asked what America was doing with all these civilians over here. 

Here we were, all mingled together awaiting more troops so 
as to proceed to Peking and relieve our legations there. Several 
Chinese converts made their way from the legations in Peking, 
bearing notes from several of the ministers there, thus informing 
us they were hard pressed and had fortified themselves around the 
legations, and were fighting for their lives day and night. There 
were eight or nine hundred marine guards there, many of them 
were wounded, ammunition and rations were running short, and 
if help did not come soon, they would be compelled to surrender. 

The Fourteenth Infantry had now arrived from Manila and 
Captain Riley's battery of light artillery also. The Sixth United 
States Cavalry had come from the United States and with them 
General Chaffee, our commanding general. 1 had served under 
this man in Cuba, and knew that the government could send no 
better man to take command of their army under these circum- 
stances. As he stepped from the tug which bnuight him up the 
river, there were those lines of determination in his face, which 
one does not forget after seeing men of this type. We knew 
something would happen now and it would not be very long in 
coming either. The next morning after his arrival all foreign 
generals held a council of war. The majority were in favor of 
awaiting more troops declaring that it wcndd be impossible to 



134 Around Tiir; A\'()Rld w jtii Uncli; Sam. 

capture Peking with this number of soldiers — 18,000 in all. Gen- 
eral Chaffee informed them that his government had sent him 
there to proceed to Peking and relieve their minister there, who 
was in deadly peril, and that in four days he intended to depart 
from Tientsin if he had to take what American soldiers he com- 
manded there and make the attack himself. This threw a differ- 
ent light on the condition of affairs, and they finally decided to 
depart with him. So everything was now in a rush, and hurry. 
Junks were secured, rations loaded on them, and every one was 
busy working away, for in three more days, we would start on 
the advance to the great Capital of China. 




CHAPTER IX. 

TIIK AD\-.\XCK FROM TIENTSIN THE CAl'TlKE Ol' IM'.KINC, RELIEV- 
ING THE LEGATIONS. 

T had been decided on this advance that the generals 
of the different powers would consult with each 
other each day. and there would be no rei^ular com- 
mander of the allied army at this time, (icneral 
Waldersee had been chosen commander of the allied 
army, but he had not arrived yet and it would be better for the 
expedition to be made without a chosen commander. The largest 
number of soldiers was the Japanese, then Russians, English, 
Americans, French and Germans, respectively. ( )ne evening 
about four o'clock we proceeded through the foreign city, across 
into the Chinese city of Tientsin, passed beyond the walls about 
three miles and went into camp in front of Piesang. 

The next morning the Japanese were to lead the advance and 
in the morning about two o'clock we were awakened by the 
Japanese artillery shelling the Chinese position. The Chinese 
artillery returned the tire and one could hear the whizzing of shells 
as they passed through the air. some droppmg near, others going 
far above our heads. Now we could hear the popping of small 
guns, and soon there began a general roar. The Chinese were 
stubborn and hard to drive back, but after seven hours of hard 
fighting thev retreated toward Yangsung. We now advanced 
through Peisang going several miles beyond and going into camp 
on the banks of the Peiho river, where a large pontoon bridge 
spans the river. There the junks began to arrive from Tientsin, 
floating every manner of flag. These were loaded down with 
thousands of rations, which were to supply the army. The 
Aiuerican army had the only real first-class transportation on this 
advance, we being able to carry supplies enough on our wagon 
train to carry us through to Peking. Other countries had two- 
wheeled carts, with small mules and ponies, and they could not 
furnish their troops with more than two da\s' rations at a time. 
In the morning every one was up bright and early, for this day 
the Americans were to lead the advance. It was expected Vang- 



136 Around tiiiv World with Uncle Sam. 

sung- would be a hard battle. Marching over a dry sandy plain 
till about half past nine o'clock the Chinese outposts opened fire 
from a small village, about three miles in front of Yangsung. 
Here the Tientsin and Peking railroad crossed the Peiho river. 
There was nothing left of this but the embankment. Railroad ties 
and depots had all disappeared and the Chinese had begun to 
carry away the big iron bridge, which spans the river at Yang- 
sung. Their outposts were driven back across the railroad em- 
bankment, and there a great artillery duel took place. American, 
English, Russian and French batteries shelling the Chinese posi- 
tions. The Fourteenth Infantry, Ninth Infantry and two bat- 
talions of American marines and the English Sikhs charged the 
railroad embankment, driving the Chinese back through the city 
of Yangsung, the artillery following them up, shelling them as 
thev retreated, the Fourteenth Infantry losing very heavily. 
After four hours of fierce fighting, the Chinese retreated in the 
direction of Peking, the East India Royal Bengal Lancers fol- 
lowing them and capturing quite a number. Here it was neces- 
sarv to remain a da\', to send our wounded back and bury the 
dead. The Japanese continued following the retreating China- 
men. ( )n the following day we left Yangsung crossing the river 
again, making for Hosown. We passed through many Chinese 
villages, following close on the heels of the Japs. A line of 
smoke could be seen ahead and they were burning everything as 
thev passed along. This night we camped near Hosown, the 
Japanese still in the lead. The Chinese army was now making a 
run of it to Peking, many of them scattering to the right and left. 
We were passing through a rich fertile country, where there were 
thousands of acres of broom corn and fine gardens. Xo China- 
men were to be seen through the country. The next day found 
us in Matow on the banks of the river again. Here in the even- 
ing we found thousands of firecrackers. The boys took them out 
and lit them for amusement. We were passing hundreds of 
Japanese unable to keep up with their column. This day we 
crossed a long low line of sand hills, wdiere the English Royal 
batterv of artillery lost many horses, overcome by heat. 

Our armv mules passed over these very easily. At night we 
camped near a walled city. The next day we arrived at Tung- 
Chou, seventeen miles from Peking. This city is on the banks 
of the Peiho river and has a population of 800.000 inhabitants. 



TllK CAl'TrUM OF I 'K KING. 137 

There is a canal running;' from here to I\'kiii,n'. We could now see 
the mountains in the distance. A long range running from the 
northwest to the southeast. We had now overtaken the Japanese 
and this night all troops were marching towards Peking. The 
attack was to be made on the south wall of the city. There are 
four gateways or entrances in the south wall of the city. The 
Japanese taking two gateways on the right, the Americans. Rus- 
sians and English the two to the left, and two on the east wall. 

M troop of the Sixth Cavalry had now overtaken us coming 
from Tientsin. They were sent out in advance to scout and they 
soon ran across a large body of Chinese soldiers. They were 
attacked and sent a messenger back for re-enforcements. The 
Chinese were driven back into the city and our artillery was soon 
battering away at the walls of Peking. The Russians were 
pounding away at the gateway on our right, and the English on 
the left. We could hear firing across the wall in the city where 
the legations w^ere defending themselves, the Chinese making a 
last desperate efifort to capture them. 

The Fourteenth Infantry leading the American troops now ad- 
vanced up against the wall and a trumpeter of that regiment 
crawled up the corner of a projection on the wall fastening ropes 
for the regiment to crawl up on. he being the first American 
soldier on the walls of Peking. They were soon advancing 
against the pagodas at the gateway, the Chinese retreating to the 
walls which divide the Tartar city from the Chinese city, running 
through the center of the city from north to south. We soon 
passed through the Chinese city in the direction of the legations 
and arrived at Chinmen gate in the evening about four o'clock. 
Near this gate on top of the walls were hundreds of people of all 
descriptions, missionaries and ministers cheering and waving their 
hats wildly. One of the marines slipping down to the gate opened 
it and a strong American guard was placed in the pagoda above 
the gate, which is the main entrance to the imperial and forbidden 
city of Peking. We went into camp outside the wall opposite 
the American legations. Here- is a Ijirge open sewer, which runs 
through in under the wall, which had been closed up and fortified 
by the legations. This was now opened and we had access to 
the legations. 

The Chinese were still firing on the legation, but no one heeded 
this. Everv one who had been besieged was overjoyed and 



138 Around the; World with Uncle Sam. 

an American missionary woman got up on a high point and made 
a speech to the American soldiers. The boys all cheered her and 
everyone wanted to shake hands. There were certainly a great 
many light hearts that rested peacefully that night. We were in- 
formed that the German minister von Ketteler and the Japanese 
minister had both been killed. They were all gathered in around 
here in the American, English and French legations, holding the 
wall which divides the two cities, as a background. On the fol- 
lowing morning of August 17th, Captain Riley proceeding with 
his battery placed them on the wall to the left of Chinmen gate. 
They began bombarding the imperial and forbidden cities from 
this wall. An hour later this great American artilleryman was 
killed, being shot through the mouth. The Americans were now 
fighting hard, making their way toward the forbidden city. 
The Japanese were pounding away at the northwest part of the 
city making their way to the forbidden citv, from that direction. 
In the evening about sunset American guards were guarding the 
entrance to the forbidden city, they being the first soldiers of the 
allied army to enter. 

A large guard was placed around here, and our wagon trains 
returned to the former camp near the legations. There was 
still a great deal of firing being done by the Chinese, but the 
main force had retreated to the mountains in the southwest part 
in the direction of Housang, whither the Emperor and Empress 
Dowager had fled. The next morning we proceeded down Chin- 
men road through the Chinese city to the east gate. Here on the 
right, inside the wall was a large park, called the Park of Agricul- 
ture, surrounded by a wall fifteen feet high. There in this park 
we w^ent into camp and were soon cleaning up and making our- 
selves as comfortable as possible. Directly across from our camp- 
ing ground was the Park of Heaven. In this the English went 
into camp. 

The city was allotted into districts and each power represented 
took their district, patrolling it and placing it under martial law. 
Guards were soon patrolling the streets "and after a few days the 
Chinese began to return to their homes. Looting was carried on 
in every part of the city. The Chinese army was now powerless, 
and the poor were robbing the rich, and about the time they 
would accumulate a large sum, some soldier of the allied forces 
would come along and take it all. Our commander gave us strict 



TiiK Capti'ki.; of Pkktng. 139 

orders about looting and the guards were notified to arrest any 
soldier caught committing this crime. Several Sikhs, who came 
across to our district were robbing a Chinese woman of her 
jewelry. She screamed, and a sentry of the l-'ourteenlli Infantry 
appeared in sight, they began to run and he ordered them to halt. 
They did not heed, so he fired wounding one and killing another. 
This caused quite a little ill feeling between their troops and ours 
for a while. But the iVmerican guards were trying to protect the 
Chinese citizens, and soon our district was overcrowded. One 
could see thousands of Chinamen carrying American flags for 
protection. jMany of these were manufactured by the Chinamen 
themselves and were very odd. In many of them the stripes ran 
in every direction and sometimes the stars made in the shape of 
shamrocks. 

We now^ began to straighten our camp up. This park which we 
were in was forbidden ground; here the Emperor came to wor- 
ship and ofifer up sacrifices for the success of crops. There were 
many altars through here and large temples, which had images 
carved from wood, such as dogs, chickens and animals and fowls 
of every description. We soon had these temples cleaned out, 
fitting them up for hospitals, quartermaster storehouses, com- 
missaries, clothing storehouses, and our commanding general's 
headquarters. Supplies were brought up the river as far as Tung- 
Chou and these old temples were soon filled up with all kinds of 
army supplies. Large tents came on, and this ground was soon 
covered with rows of these tents lined up in perfect order. Can- 
vas cots were placed in them and we soon had a respectable 
camp. There were several fine wells in these grounds. A filter- 
ing plant was put in, a bath house made, bake ovens built, and the 
commissary department were buying large numbers of cattle and 
sheep, and this no doubt was the ideal camp around Peking. 

Large numbers of camp followers were now arriving and 
canteens or saloons scattered along the street. Our commanding 
officer would not allow any of these in our district. Soldiers 
would gather in these places and there would be rough fights 
among soldiers of different nationalities. 

It had now become difficult to pass through the streets. The 
Chinese were lined through here selling all kinds of articles, such 
as silks and furs. The populace had returned and the streets were 
crowded. Chinese women could be seen with their small crippled 



140 Around the World w itii Uncle Sam. 

feet, which are broken back when they are infants, thus stopping 
the growth of the foot. This is done by the wealthy class and 
these poor little children are tortured and crippled for life. As 
you see these little women hobbling along the street almost unable 
to walk alone, you feel very sorry for them and wonder why these 
people are so foolish. The commander of the allied army General 
Waldersee had now arrived and thousands of German soldiers 
could be seen throughout the city. The old legations were being 
cleaned up and plans for new ones were being drawn. Many 
Boxers were captured and the powers were trying to come to an 
agreement in regard to a settlement with the Chinese government. 
The great Chinaman, Li Hung Chang, had arrived here and he 
represented his government, trying to secure as good terms as 
possible. He visited our camp inspecting every part of it and 
everything had to be explained to him as he was very inquisitive. 
The Americans seemed to get along well with the Chinamen and 
many times as we passed through the streets they would get 
down on their hands and knees, butting the ground with their 
heads. This seemed very foolish to us and oftentimes the boys 
would stop and approaching them get them by the arm and raise 
them to their feet, giving them to understand that they did not 
care for that kind of foolishness. They stared at us then and 
wondered why these tall fellows did not care for this kind of 
homage. Large caravans of camels were now arriving, bring- 
ing in coal, furs and nuts of many kinds from the mountains. 
Hundreds of these came into our camp with coal, and it was sup- 
posed we would remain here for the winter. 

There are two gateways or entrances into the park on the north 
side of the wall. The park is laid off in squares, walls dividing it 
inside. There are long rows of cedar trees through the park and 
our detachment had our camp under two large cedars ; our cook- 
house being under one. In one of these trees we had noticed 
bees swarming in and out, but we were afraid to cut it open and 
get the honey, on account of our camp being so near. Facing 
south from the outside of the park, and near the left entrance of 
the gateway is a bell tower, two stories high, the bell being on 
the top story. Our lieutenant secured a permit to move our 
quarters into this for the winter, as we were a small detachment. 
On the ground floor there are four "large entrances or saleports ; 
one passing through from north to south, and the other from east 



Til)-. C\rTri<i': oi- Pi: king. 



141 



to west. We moved our l)elon^iii<;s to this tower. Around the 
bell is a wide corridor; in the center hanj^s the ])ell on four lar_sj;e 
beams. Measuring- across the bottom this bell is twenty feet and 
about twenty feet high. 

We placed our bunks in this corridor around the outside of 
the bell, thus having a fine sleeping apartment. Tlie north, south 
and west entrances we closed with bricks placing windows in the 
center of each. This gave us three fine rooms, one we used as a 




A GROUP OF SOLDIERS WITH AN ARMY MULE. 



kitchen, one as a dining room and one as a storeroom for our 
rations and engineer outfits. The east entrance we closed with 
wood and placed a large door in the center for passing in and 
out. We built a larg-e furnace in the center and had plenty of 
room as there were only fifteen members in our detachment now, 
several members being sent home sick and several having been 
discharged. After we had moved our camp, one evening we 
slipped over to our former camp with an ax and several of us were 



142 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

soon at work chopping for the bees. They were located and 
smoked out. We secured a large five gallon bucket full of honey, 
many of the bees sticking fast to this. As we removed it we did 
not brush them off, but placed the honey in the bucket at once for 
it was dark. After our pail was filled, we proceeded to our 
quarters in the bell tower, placed the bucket on a large table in the 
kitchen, washed our hands and went to bed. Our cook was a 
large German by the name of Huber, and when he arose in the 
morning to get breikfast he spied the bucket of honey. He had 
never had much experience with bees and selecting a large piece 
with several bees on it, began to sample the article. About his 
first mouthful four or five bees landed on his lips, stinging him in 
the mouth in about a dozen diiterent places. We could hear him 
growling and kicking pans around, and when the rest of us came 
down for breakfast, his lips were about three times as large as 
their natural size. He blamed it all on me and said I had no 
business to bring those blamed bees around in the kitchen where 
they could bite the cook. The boys laughed at him and told him 
he was so sweet they wanted to kiss him. Every one had a good 
laugh and Huber, who was a good natured fellow, was soon over 
his angry spell and joked with the rest of us over the matter. 

On leaving Tientsin -we had secured twenty Chinamen to assist 
us in our work. These' had,-been picked out and the most of them 
were large husky fellows. One of them., known to us as John, 
was very weH^developed, being over six feet in height. He was 
very bright and soon learned our ways. We soon had them all 
nicknamed. We called one "Liz," one "John the Baptist," but the 
greatest one was "Washy Washy." He was very stupid and 
everything we told him to do he would say, "washy-washy !" 
thinking that everything we told him to do he was to wash. So 
after an attempt to teach him we had him put in the kitchen to 
help the cook, allowing him to wash pans. This was the place for 
this fellow, for he kept everything scoured up bright and clean. 
For the first few days we guarded them, but after they learned 
our ways, they never needed watching as they were glad to remain 
with us. 

We had a large tent put up near our cjuarters for them and they 
were soon comfortably situated. They were paid ten cents per 
day and given their rations. This was enormous wages for these 
fellows, as the average pay for a common laborer in China is two 



Till'; C.\i"irRK ()!• PivKiNG. 143 

cents a day. We allowed them one of their men as tlu'ir cook, ami 
this was all he had to look after. They were nearly all willint; to 
work and soon became experts with picks and shovels. Our 
wagon trains were hauling in supplies from Tung-Chou, for the 
winter. They were brought up in junks to that place, then trans- 
ported from there to Peking with wagons. Several places in the 
road had become impassable and we were ordered out to repair 
them, so we started oiT one morning with our Chinamen, taking 
several days to repair chuck-holes. We passed several large 
temples along the road, most of them Confucius temples. In 
these many images were built in honor of the great Chinese 
prophet, they coming here and worshiping these idols and paying 
their priests who generally have charge of these places. 

China has a great many different kinds of religion. Followers 
of Confucius, Buddha, Mohammed, Brahma and Llamas, the lat- 
ter being nearly extinct. There are many converts to Christianity 
along the seacoast towns, and larger cities, where missionaries 
can be protected. These people are very superstitious and it is 
very dangerous for one to be out in Chinese settlements where 
there is no protection of any kind. We became well ac- 
quainted with our Chinamen and tried very hard to learn what 
their religion was, but were never able to accomplish this. We 
often watched them as we passed by temples where idols were 
destroyed, but they would pass by without noticing them. You 
never saw any Chinamen around these places. One thing we did 
notice about the Chinese here, they appear to be very fond of their 
children, the most of whom are healthy and robust, a great many 
having clear complexions. They were very backward and timid. 
We spent several days on the roads, and on our return secured 
quite a large number of sweet potatoes and vegetables, purchas- 
ing them very cheap. We were in our quarters again in the bell 
tower. And now it was our duty to make a map of this great city. 
Peking is surrounded by a wall forty feet in height and about 
thirty feet thick. This wall is built from large gray brick, placed 
on either side, the center is filled in with nmcky clay, which is 
dried and has become baked. It is built north and south ; and 
east and west. The length of the walls running east and west are 
twelve miles, north and south they are nine miles. The tops are 
paved with brick making them smooth. . 



144 Around the; World with Uncle Sam. 

On the outer edge is an extension five or six feet in height and 
about the same thickness ; this is loop-holed. About every five 
hundred yards a projection is built out from the wall, and in case 
the enemy should advance against the wall a fiank fire could be 
poured out from these projections. In the east and west walls are 
three gateways each entering into the city. The north and south 
walls contain four gatew^ays each, thus making fourteen entrances 
into the city. Beginning at central gateway on the east wall pass- 
ing south, then west and then back again to the starting point, 
the distance is forty-two miles. Outside surrounding the wall is 
a moat and upon entering the gates one must cross a bridge, which 
is built arch-shaped and constructed from granite. Each gate- 
way is built with double gates at the top of which is constructed 
a building called a pagoda. These are used for guards, or 
soldiers' barracks. Peking is divided and walled into four differ- 
ent parts, viz : — the Forbidden city, the Imperial city, the Tartar 
city and the Chinese city. Starting from the east wall going 
westward three miles is the Chinese city. At the central or Chin- 
men gate is the Imperial city, which extends north and south 
three miles each way. Here are government buildings and 
temples of many descriptions, where government offices are 
managed and conducted. Passing through three gates and sale- 
ports to the west is the wall of the Forbidden city. This city is 
about three miles square and is forbidden ground. No one enters 
here, except members of the royal family, concubines of the 
emperor and servants, the males all being eunuchs. In the direc- 
tion of the west wall are parks and temples. Here are monuments 
built to the different religions. In these grounds is a large hill the 
base of which is several miles in circumference. This is an 
artificial structure, built from coal, dirt being placed on the out- 
side, and covered with various kinds of trees. The former Em- 
peror had this work done and the coal placed in. During his 
reign his country had been at war. The city had been besieged 
during the winter and the inhabitants suffered severely from the 
cold. After a settlement and terms had been made, this precau- 
tion had been taken in case of another war. North, south and 
west of the Imperial and Forbidden cities is the Tartar city. 
After the great wall of China had been built, the Manchurians 
had crossed this vi^all and captured Peking, killing the Chinese 
Emperor and placing the Manchurian Emperor on the throne of 



Til I-: C Ai'Ti-Ki: di' I'l'KixG. 145 

China. The cit\- was then (hvidcd .iiul natives from Manchnria 
took up their residence in this ])()rti()n of the city, so as to l)e near 
their Emperor, in case of a rel)elhon. 

The ]\lanchu dvnastv is still the rei^nin;."; power of China, the 
])resent Emperor, Otianosu, heinj;- a descendant of that race. 
This first Emperor, to make the Chinese loyal subjects, had of- 
fered each one a dollar for raising- a cue; Ihat is, allowing- a por- 
tion of hair to grow over the crown of the head. This custom 
is still practiced; and you might as well ofYer to cut off a China- 
man's head as to cut oft' his cue. 

Peking had no sewerage system whatever, except a few old 
ditches. Waste of every description is gathered up by the Chi- 
nese and used as fertilizer on their gardens. An eft'ort had been 
made to put it in a sanitary condition, but this was nearly im- 
possible, as the population is very dense and people come and go 
from the citv every day by thousands. ( )ur c|uarters were near 
the Chinmen road, on the central street, which passed out the 
east gate of the Chinese city. We had made a ladder so as to get 
up on the wall, and here we would sit for hours, watching the 
people pass by. 

Along this street dozens of funerals passed every day. as there 
was a large burying ground east of the city in the direction of 
the Imperial hunting park. We noticed that in some of these 
funeral processions the coffins were placed on two long poles and 
accompanied only by the bearers, or men who carry the coffins. 
( )ur Chinamen told us this was a poor man and his family was 
not able to have an elaborate funeral. In a short time another 
procession passed along, headed by fine band, making a 
hideous noise bv banging instruments of every kind together ; 
then in line came the bearers with the coffin and behind them a 
long line of mourners, scattering fine pieces of paper, and last the 
family. The mourners were crying and making quite a noise. 
This was a rich Chinaman and these mourners are hired for this 
purpose. A certain amount of things are placed beside the body 
of the dead Chinaman, and also articles for his convenience in the 
hereafter. The wealthier the man, the larger the funeral. 

Jinrikishas can be seen here, sedan chairs and Chinese ponies, 
which are very short legged and have heavy bodies. \'ehicles 
are all two-wheeled carts ; many of them are covered and drawn 
bv mules or ponies. There are hundreds of dcMikeys in and about 



146 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

the city. All labor, such as garden and small field work is done 
by men, as it is cheaper to hire men than to keep animals. 

Pears and persimmons are the principal fruits which come into 
the city. Vegetables can be secured very cheap, and poultry 
and eggs can be had at a reasonable price. A large chicken can 
be had for ten cents, and seventeen dozens of eggs for fifty cents. 
As you pass through the villages you never see any poultry, and 
wonder how the Chinese manage to keep chickens secluded. 

The wealthy people dress in silks and fine furs ; the poorer class 
in the cheapest of material, such as light cotton goods, which is 
padded for the winter and resembles a large quilt. Hats or caps 
are scarcelv worn. A great many Mohammedans wear the fez. 
The fuel is principally coal, as wood is very scarce in this country. 
Coal is pulverized into dust, dampened and mixed with clay, 
rolled into small balls and burned in small clay stoves, the top 
being open and the draft passing in from the bottom, keeping 
these round balls red hot. These stoves are placed in the rooms, 
in which, if not properly ventilated, the sleeper is often overcome 
by the gas fumes. Houses are mostly constructed of brick made 
from clav and sun dried. The richer homes, government build- 
ings and temples, are all calcimined, the roofs being made from 
glazed tile of many fancy colors and the corners ornamented with 
clay animals and birds. The inner walls are frescoed in fancy 
colors, which never seem to fade. The poorer homes are very 
scantily furnished, the beds being built from brick and dirt. The 
windows, which are few, are covered with paper. In the wealthier 
sections they are furnished with beds, chairs, tables and fancy 
dishes of every description. 

Chopsticks arc universally used by all classes ; many of them 
are silver mounted. Gambling is carried on everywhere, games 
of all kinds being used for this purpose. Opium is used in pref- 
erence to drink. Sanshu is the Chinaman's most popular drink. 
This contains large quantities of alcohol and has a very detestable 
flavor. Prisons are unknown, and a man committing a crime is 
beheaded, except in petty offenses, and then he is tied to a post 
and sentenced to stand in the sun or cold with his hands lashed 
and the principal part of his clothing removed. Men of wealth 
and position have very little difficulty in removing a man or hav- 
ing 'him executed if they wish him out of the way. Executions 
are made public and thousands of people turn out to witness this 



The Capture oe Peking. 147 

spectacle. The work is done with a lari;o, licavy sword used by 
the executioner, and assisted by two helpers, 'i'he prisoner's 
hands are placed behind him and tied ; he then kneels on the 
g-round and a long- cord is placed in his mouth and the cue drawn 
forward. The helper then draws the cue and cord to the ground 
and the blade passes over the back of the neck and the execu- 
tion is over. 

There was once a rebellion in the central province. A body of 
troops was sent out to put down the rebellion. After executing 
30,000 Chinamen in this way they returned to Peking, the gen- 
eral being considered a hero, having ended the rebellion so easily. 
We w^ere now issued fur caps, gloves, overcoats, shoes and blue 
uniforms. We had enough rations to last us one year. The 
English were rebuilding the Tientsin and Peking railway, which 
had formerly come within eight miles of the city, this being as 
near as the Chinese government w'ould allow them to approach the 
wall with their locomotives. A street car line had been built from 
the terminus of the railway to the east gate. Every part of the 
powerhouse and street car line had disappeared. The English 
were now blasting a hole through the wall and expected to run 
their trains into the city. The road was to be in operation the 
first of the year. Our mail was being sent every day across the 
country from Yangsung. which was as far as the railway had 
been rebuilt towards Peking. 

We were now ordered to stake out a road as direct as possible 
from Peking to Hosown, this making their mail route about 
twenty miles nearer. The engineer detachment and about ten 
members of the Sixth Cavalry mounted, and forty Chinamen 
were to help us. We started out the east gate, following a 
sunken highway, which had been pounded down into the surface 
from continuous traffic to the depth of about thirty or thirty-five 
feet. This was in November and we were having a terrible dust 
storm, which frequent this country in the winter season. Trav- 
eling east about eight miles, w^e arrived at the Imperial hunting 
park. This is a game reserve, where the Emperor goes on hunt- 
ing trips. It is enclosed by a high wall and contains over ten 
acres of land. We passed in through a gate, following our road 
to the northeast, putting up markers printed in black letters, 
"Peking and Hosown," to mark the road. After crossing about 
eight miles of this park, we passed through a gate, arriving in a 



148 Around the World with Unci.e Sam. 

large city on the edge of the park. Here the Mandarin of the 
city with our officers, furnished us quarters to sleep in and or- 
dered the natives to bring us wood and water and any articles we 
might desire. He was very friendly and the natives gathered 
around us in large bunches, examining the brass buttons on our 
coats, feeling our clothing and inquiring of our Chinamen all 
about us. We all had light buckskin gauntlets. These they 
greatly admired, and we were careful not to lay them down. 
Sleeping here this night, we were compelled to have fires, as it 
was very cold. We now started out west, crossing the country, 
marking out the road, and making a map of the country. This 
day we covered about thirty-five miles, passing through hundreds 
of villages where the Chinamen fiocked out, having water all 
ready for our animals, offering us eggs and chickens, but no one 
took anything without paying for it. This night we put up just 
outside the wall of a large city, the Mandarin coming out and get- 
ting quarters for us and supplying us with wood. Hundreds of 
Chinamen came out of the city to look at us. 

The next day we arrived in Hosown, here remaining two days, 
then returning to Peking. The mail boys would now be able to 
follow the route which we had staked out. 




CHAPTER X. 

A WINTER IN CHINA BACK To Till". I'l I 1 1. 1 ITI N'F.S. 

T was near Christmas, and many of the missionaries 
who had returned to their home countries were now 
coming back, or new ones coming;- in their places. 
Xearh- all foreign envoys who had gone to their 
home countries were returning for duty again in 
China. We had formed an acquaintance with a Norwegian mis- 
sionary, who could speak broken English. He was an inde- 
pendent missionary, that is, he did not represent any missionary 
society, but carried on his work by popular subscription from 
friends in his own country. His building and school had been 
destroyed during this trouble, and when we tirst formed his ac- 
quaintance, a short time after the legations were relieved, he ap- 
peared in our camp with one shoe on and one boot, bareheaded, 
hair long and shaggy, and attired in a linen duster. While we 
were talking to him, he told us his trouble. He was trying to re- 
gain what he had lost by buying up goods, and then selling it. 

We obtained an old pair of shoes and a hat and gave him these, 
and his dinner. He still had a mule and a cart and one of his 
converts, who was mounted on a Chinese pony. He remained 
with us all afternoon and gave us an account of the siege at 
Peking. He had been captured, but was released, as he could 
speak ^he Chinese language fluently. Several years before this 
he had made a trfp from Peking to St. Petersburg, crossing the 
mountains and the great Mongolian desert. After he had formed 
our acquaintance, he visited us about once every week, remaining 
at our quarters all day. He often furnished us with eggs and 
articles of this J<ind, buying up old jewelry and selling it to the 

Chinese. 

He was undecided whether to rebuild his mission or not, as he 
had no means to accomplish this with. His brother was in the 
interior of China somewhere, he being a missionary also. He did 
not know if he was alive or not, and this seemed to trouble him 
wonderfullv He told us other missionaries would have nothing 
to do with him, as thev called him "the crazv Norwegian." 



150 Around tiik World with Uncle Sam. 

His country was not represented here by an envoy, and he was 
without friends. We helped him along as much as was possible, 
but told hint he had better stay at his missionary work and not 
get too deep in business ; but as time passed by he accumulated 
quite a sum of money. 

Rumors were now spread that the Chinese general was march- 
ing towards Peking with a large army of Chinamen, but no one 
was concerned, as there were troops enough here to defend the 
city against any number he could march against us. The Boxers 
had begun to get troublesome, and on the 26th day of December 
we were on our way to a walled city, about fifty miles away. It 
was very cold now, and we carried our Sibley tents and stoves 
wdth us, making forty miles the first day. The next morning we 
crossed the river on the ice and about noon reached a walled 
city, where the Boxers had been disturbing the peace. Here 
Germans, English and Japanese were coming in from every direc- 
tion, but the Boxers had disappeared. 

The next day we started on our return to Peking, by the way of 
Tingchow. There had been quite a thaw and we had to build 
pontoon bridges to get our wagon trains and artillery across. We 
returned to Peking after being absent six days. The Chinese 
were not frightened now and remained, in their villages and cities 
as we passed by, and they were still willing to accommodate us in 
all our wants. 

New Year's night we were all awakened by shouts and cries, 
across in the English camp. Getting up and looking out the win- 
dows we could see large flames and soon learned that a large num- 
ber of the Sikhs quarters had been burned down, destroying 
large quantities of ammunittion and rations. 

The railroad had now been completed, and on the first day of 
the year trains were running from Taku and Tientsin to Peking. 
We now had no further use for our Chinamen, and secured 
passes for them to return to their homes in Tientsin, where they 
had families. Two of them we kept. Washy Washy and Pete, 
they not having families, desiring to remain with us. On the 
evening before their departure, they came into our quarters, all 
in a row, each carrying a bundle. They proceeded to our table, 
undoing their packages, and filling the table with nuts, fruits and 
many Chinese dainties. Then their spokesman, speaking to 
Chang, our draftsman, informed him to tell us they thanked us 



PjACk rn rwv: Piiiliim-inI'S. 151 

very warmly for our kind trcalincnt and told us thi-_\- had bren far 
better treated by us than by their own people, in the morning-, 
as they were ready to leave our detachment all passed outside, 
shaking hands with them and bidding them good-bye. 

We had many Chinese acquaintances in the city. A Mrs. 
W'ung, who lived in our district, had invited several nieml)ers of 
our detachment to the wedding of her niece. She could s[)eak 
the English language, as she had been employed as a servant in 
the American legation. Her nephew was employed as a servant 
by our lieutenant, thus spending much of his time around our 
quarters. 

Several of us decided to attend the wedding, and it proved to 
be an interesting afifair. The bride and groom were both nice 
looking Chinese, she being about fifteen and he seventeen years 
of age. They went through many forms of Chinese custom. 
Pieces of fine paper were scattered over them, and they were then 
pronounced husband and wife. After this came the feast. They 
had Chinese dishes, chop suey. meats of many kinds, some of it 
resembling dog meat. We did not sample the meat, but ate of 
the fowl, Chinese cakes and puddings. Mrs. Wung was ac- 
quainted with the American customs and had knives, forks and 
spoons provided for her American guests, the other members 
using chopsticks. Fine tea was served, as the Chinese do not use 
cofifee, tea being used in every home, rich and poor alike. It is 
never sweetened and is drunk pure. The wedding was a success, 
and our hestess chatted away, trying to make things as pleasant 
as she could. We thanked them for their kindness, bade them 
all good-night and returned to our camp. 

Our lieutenant received orders to survey a new x\merican lega- 
tion, and soon we were busy witth our instruments and chains, 
driving stakes and running lines north and south, east and west. 
• All legations were to be built close together, a large wall built 
around them, and barracks constructed for guards. Soon hun- 
dreds of Chinese were busy at work on these, tearing down old 
buildings and leveling off the ground. The foreign powers and 
China had now come to an agreement, the Chinese pa\ing an 
indemnity for the cost of the war. Five members of the Chinese 
council who were so bitter against the foreigners and who were 
at the head of the Boxer movement, were to be publicly executed. 
The Chinese general who had taken a great part in the attack on 



152 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

the legation, was also to be executed. The court could now re- 
turn to Peking, as the integrity of China would be upheld. 

The execution part of the agreement was now being carried 
out, and on the one of the main streets of the Chinese city, thou- 
sands and thousands of people had gathered. These five mem- 
bers, under a guard of Japanese soldiers, were now av/aiting ex- 
ecution and were to receive the same punishment which, probably, 
they had been instrumental in handing out to their subjects. 
Here they stood, amid the cheering of thousands of their country- 
men. Some of them were not able to stand and had to be carried 
up to the place of execution. They were men of wealth, and this 
was something unusual to these poor, ignorant Chinamen, for 
men of power like these were to receive the same punishment as 
had been inflicted upon them for committing some petty offense. 
Large rugs were placed on the ground by their families, and one 
after another they were executed, placed in coffins and borne 
awav, the crowds cheering as the last of these passed out of sight. 
The Chinese general could not be found, as he was far out in the 
interior with a large army, and the Chinese government could not 
secure him. 

Manv stories were told here of the Chinese Emperor ; how he 
was under the power of the Empress Dowager. He had been 
brought up under her care and was still influenced by her. Mis- 
sionaries told stories of how servants came from the Emperor's 
palace, asking them for books. He desired very much to learn 
the English language and was fond of modern literaftire. This 
he had to read secretly, many of them believing that if he could 
have his way, great reforms would prevail in China, as the Em- 
peror appeared friendly to the foreigners. The Empress Dow- 
ager had a bitter feeling against them, she being afraid of modern 
civilization, knowing that if Christian ideas and principles were 
taught, the power of aristocracy and nobility would be broken. 
It was plain for any one to see that the power of the dynasty is 
held through superstition and fear. Their Emperor is wor- 
shiped. If he passes through the street, a subject dare not look 
upon him. but must bow his head on the ground, closing his eyes 
until his ruler has passed by in his fine sedan chair. 

Our troops had to remain here until the wall had been built 
around the legation, so that the guards remaining here would be 
able to protect themselves if necessary. After this was done the 



Rack to 'I'm': Pii ii.iimmn'Ks. 



153 



troops would ag'ain return Id the rhili])])in.'s and (leneral Chaffee 
would then become the coninianding- general of llie Philippines. 
Every kind of amusement had been invented in camp to pass 
awav the time. A baseball leai;uc had ])ct'n organized and dif- 




SOLDIERS IN FULL DRESS UNIFORM. 



ferent branches of the service had been represented in this league. 
The officers, infantry, hospital corps, cavalry and artillery each 
had a team. The weather now was fine and a ball ground was 
prepared and the games became exciting, and many an afternoon 



154 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

was passed pleasantly away in this manner. The Chinese and 
foreign soldiers came to witness the games, many wondering what 
these excited soldiers were cheering for when a close and exciting- 
score was made. The infantry had the best tc?am, and after doz- 
ens of games had been played, the best players from the other 
teams were selected and they endeavored to defeat the infantry, 
but this seemed impossible, as the infantry again came out vic- 
torious. 

Many hours were passed away on the wall, opposite our quar- 
ters. As the days became warmer, dozens of Chinese children 
gathered outside and we took hardtack, cans, and other articles 
which w^e had no use for, and pitched them out in front of the 
wall, watching them scramble for these. They had learned to 
know us, and of course watched us closely, and whenever we 
gathered on top of the wall they put in their appearance. Often- 
times large crowds of Chinese stopped and watched them 
scramble for these things. 

The Chinese are fond of dogs, and there were hundreds of them 
through the cities and towns. A great many of them were large, 
having long hair, and making an ugly appearance. Many were 
covered with sores and were so thin they could scarcely walk. 
Cats are seldom seen, and few rats and mice. Game comes into 
the city, such as rabbits, Mongolian pheasants, wild ducks and 
geese. We made sketches of the country within ten miles of 
Peking, oftentimes going out without any gun. The Chinamen 
appeared friendly, and when we stopped in villages they offered 
us tea to drink and pieces of corn-bread. They seemed to know 
the Americans and in passing, many, of them held up their thumbs, 
which meant we were all right. The troops had target practice, 
using the walls for a background, our artillery taking old pieces 
of captured Chinese guns out into the hunting park. Oftentimes 
the English artillery accompanied them. They had contests and 
the English had to do good shooting to keep in place with our 
boys, as the battery here was one of the best in the American 
army. 

The weather had become warm now and we could see soldiers 
drilling, many of them drilling in front of our park or camp, as 
there was a long, level tract between the American and English 
camps. Here Germans, English and Americans spent hours each 
day drilling, the cavalry often causing quite a sensation as they 



B AC K T( ) Till". P 1 1 I [ , H'Pl N ES. 155 

went galloping" over the smooth, even surface. There had been 
little snow during the winter season, but tlie weather had been 
cold. Oftentimes there would be winds which would blow the 
dust into clouds, these storms sometimes lasting for a week. As 
the warm weather approached, there were hundreds of cases of 
smallpox among the Chinese. It is a great wonder the soldiers 
did not take this disease, as we often passed Chinamen with the 
scabs falling ofif their faces. We were lucky and only had one 
case in our camp. You could see large numbers of foreign of- 
ficers going through our camp and hospitals, inspecting our sys- 
tem. The Japanese were very much interested and spent several 
days inspecting equipments, artillery, cavalry and quartermaster 
transportation. The weather was fine and our troops had parade 
every evening. Hundreds of spectators from the legations 
turned out to witness these parades. 

Large metallic cofilins had arrived, and the bodies of dead sol- 
diers were taken up and placed in these, sealed and sent back to 
the United States. 

The Chinese have one of the oldest observatories in the world, 
which is built on one of the walls there at Peking. The Germans 
were taking the instruments from this, which were of very an- 
cient pattern, packing them up and shipping them to their home 
government. The Chinese protested, but they were not heeded 
They appealed to the American commander and he notified our 
home government and directed a note to the commander of the 
allied army. This caused quite a little trouble. Our govern- 
ment protested and these articles were all returned. A large dele- 
gation of Chinese came to our camp and presented our com- 
mander with a large silk umbrella. This is one of the highest 
honors which they can bestow upon anyone. Their interpreter 
made a speech, thanking our government and the commander for 
the kindness they had shown them in this trouble. 

Our Norwegian missionary friend still visited us. He would 
now appear with his bible and would oftentimes preach a little. 
A few weeks later some one robbed him of the money he had ac- 
cumulated, and he was afterwards found by a company of Ger- 
man' soldiers, wandering over the country, insane. He was 
placed in a German hospital, and later transported to his home in 
Norway. The strain had been too much for him, and he broke 
down completely. We were now almost ready to leave China, 



156 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

as the new legation had been built, a large wall constructed 
around it, with loop-holes for artillery guns. Company B of the 
Ninth Infantry, 300 strong, was to remain as legation guard. 
Our camps were being torn up and the buildings placed in the 
same condition as we had found them. Our troops marched to 
the train, led by an English band. At the depot were thousands 
of soldiers, foreign ministers and generals of the different armi'es 
who had participated in the war, waiting to bid us farewell. 
Our train slowly pulled away, amid great cheering and waving of 
hats. The last band to play was the Japanese, and their general 
stood by with hat removed, bowing and smiling an adieu, amid 
the strains of Auld Lang Syne. As we passed through the Chi- 
nese section hundreds of Chinamen collected near the gate and 
watched us pass, probably very much puzzled at the trainload of 
cheering men that passed through the great wall of the city. 

This railroad was garrisoned by English soldiers, and at every 
station were crowds of English soldiers. Our train often stopped, 
giving the officers of each army an opportunity to say farewell. 
The English and Americans were on very friendly terms and had 
been very friendly during the entire campaign. 

As our train rolled along the plain we could see thousands of 
natives at work in their gardens. The water for irrigating pur- 
poses was drawn from wells by hand, as there was not suf- 
ficient rainfall in this region for the growing crops. All crops, 
except corn and broom corn, were irrigated. Weeds were used 
for fuel, and almost every article was utilized, nothing being al- 
lowed to waste. We seldom passed a habitation in the country, 
as nearly all congregate in villages. We often wondered at the 
large population of some of the villages through which we passed, 
oftentimes passing through throngs in villages which covered no 
more ground than that occupied by ordinary farm buildings in 
our country. As we passed, they popped out like ants from an 
ant hill when disturbed by some intruder. 

Previouslv we had visited the Great Wall, which is one of the 
Seven Wonders of the world. This is about 40 miles from the 
city. This great wall, beginning at the Gulf of Pechili at Shang- 
hai Gaum, extends over the mountains for a distance of 1,500 
miles. It is built of large, gray brick, is about 28 feet high and 
14 feet thick. In some places the wall is forty-five and fifty 
miles from water. This must have taken many hundred vears of 



F> AC K T( ) •nil', r 111 1 , 1 1 ' r 1 \' i:s. 157 

labor, but one does not wonder so nuicli when you considc'r the 
large population. Some of the boys secured pieces of brick from 
the wall for souvenirs. 

After several bours of travel our train passed throut^h ^ aug- 
sung. Here, almost a year before, a f,^reat battle had been 
fought, but now everything was peaceable and (|uiet. The ap- 
pearance of the place had changed, too. There was a large 
French garrison here, and they turned out to see us off. At 
Tientsin a new depot had been built upon the site of the old, which 
the Chinese artillery had choi)ped to pieces. The great wall that 
had encircled the city had now entirely disappeared and the city 
had taken on a more respectable appearance. The city was full 
of life, and men of all nations could be seen with uniforms of va- 
rious colors and styles. Here, a few weeks before our arrival, 
the Russians and English had almost clashed over a valuable 
piece of railwav property. They had both made intrenchments 
there, and for a time it looked as though there would be battle 
between the two, but an arbitrary settlement w^as made and war 
was averted. After a short stay here our train started for Taku, 
where we boarded a boat which carried us out of the river into 
the gulf. On the way we passed Chinese junks by hundreds, and 
manv muddy and dirty looking villages, with swarms of inhab- 
itants. The Japanese, Russian, English, German and French 
flags still floated over the Taku forts as we passed. 

Our tug ran alongside the United States transport, Sumner, 
which we soon boarded, and found comfortable sleeping quarters 
for the night. We lay here two days, waiting for the remainder 
of the troops. After our commander arrived, anchor was 
weighed and our boat started for Manila, after first coaling at 
Nagasaki. Five days later we anchored in the bay. 

Our detachment soon went ashore and later went marchmg 
past Quartell, Malate, to our headquarters, which were situated 
in a large convent in Malate. There w^e received a warm wel- 
come from our friends and spent days here relating our ad- 
ventures' and listening to theirs. We had been away from the 
company a year, and had much to talk about. They told us that 
Aguinaido had been captured and was held a prisoner in ^lanila. 
The Island had a civil governor, civil courts had been established 
and Manila was patrolled by police instead of soldiers, it being 
under civil government. Schools were established all over the 



158 i\R0UNn Tiii; Wori.d with Uncle Sam. 

city and the Islands, and hundreds of school teachers were arriv- 
ing from the United States. A large school was established 
just across the street from our headquarters; this was over- 
crowded and they were compelled to have night school also. 
Hundreds of natives were turned away, as there was not enough 
room to accommodate all who came. The city had made rapid 
strides since we had left. 

The Fourth day of July was celebrated in the city. A large 
parade was held and the Governor made a speech, which was 
listened to by thousands of natives, being given in their language 
by an interpreter. A large number of the natives could now 
speak English and many spoke it well. Many of the low dives 
and saloons had disappeared and reading rooms and libraries were 
established over the entire city. This city had formerly been 
overrun by dogs. There were thousands of these mangy animals 
to be seen in every part of the city. A tax was placed upon them 
and soon the streets were filled with native dog catchers. These 
went about every day with caribou carts, on which were placed 
cages. With a rope attached to the end of a long bamboo pole, 
they lassoed the dogs, which were then placed in the cages. This 
was rather a hard task to gather up these useless animals, and 
took months to accomplish it. 

Several thousand Filipinos had been sworn into the service of 
the United States as constabulary and scouts. Over these were 
placed American officers, and one could see almost as many na- 
tives in uniform as Americans. They were very proud of their 
uniform and were soon expert in drill. In the evening at the 
Luneta band stand the Filipino constabulary band rendered fine 
selections of music, at the close of which the Star Spangled Ban- 
ner was played. It is the general order in the army that when 
this air is played, all must stand at attention, remove the hat and 
place over the heart. 

Here on the Luneta, when this selection was rendered, one 
could see the promenaders stop, remove the hat, as did those in 
the service. They were not long in learning this air and re- 
spected it as did the soldiers, 

The engineer corps had now been increased to a full regiment 
and the Second Battalion was on its way to the Islands to relieve 
us. It was decided that we return by way of the Suez Canal, 
therebv makino- a tour of the world in the United States service. 



Back to titk Piiii.ippinks. 159 

The men of our company were highly elated over this news and 
eagerly awaited the coming- of the transport. We had served 
over two years in foreign service and in many rather severe cam- 
paigns. Many had been discharged here and had returned to the 
United States ; others had re-enlisted on receiving their discharge. 
Early in September the news flashed over the cable that Pres- 
ident McKinley had been shot while visiting at Bufifalo. Manila 
now had four daily papers, printed in English. Extra editions 
gave a long account of the attempt to assassinate the president. 
This caused deep regret among both Americans and natives. A 
week later news of his death was announced and flags were or- 
dered at half-mast. Funeral services were held on the day of his 
burial. All regimental colors were ordered into j\Ianila and all 
troops near the city marched into the Luneta, wdiere thousands of 
natives had gathered to witness the services. Prayers were of- 
fered and "America" was sung by the troops. The service was ob- 
served throughout the entire Island. That day a great man had 
been laid to rest. He had risen to the highest position in public 
life and had left behind him a clean record. The fanatic, who 
took his life, probably had never known of any of his good qual- 
ities. This deed had now been repeated twice in our history and 
great care and precautions were taken to shield the men in high 
positions from danger. 

The great ice plant had now been completed, and this had low- 
ered the price of that precious article in the city. Filipino busi- 
ness houses were now selling ice cream, ice cold lemonade and 
many other cold drinks, wdiich they had not able to ofifer two 
years previous. Many of the natives did a rushing business on 
the streets by selling ice cream that had been made from con- 
densed cream. Their trade was principally with the natives. 

Each dav we read criticisms in the paper that were made by a 
certain class of people in our own country, concerning the war m 
the Philippines. It seemed incredulous to us that they should 
thus condemn the policy that had been pursued by the govern- 
ment, for we could plainly see the opportunities that had been 
opened to them. Before, they had been ruled by an iron hand; 
they were overtaxed, given no privileges, no freedom of worship, 
and no freedom of the press. Government and religion worked 
hand in hand, and the people were held in bonds of slavery. 
Missionaries now arrived and introduced the idea of freedom of 



160 Around the Wcki.d with Unci.k Sam. 

worship, which these people had never known. The priestcraft 
had a hold upon them like a grip of iron, and had Filipino .c^ov- 
ernment been allowed to proceed, this chain would doubtless never 
have been broken. Under American government the power of 
this great order of friars was dissolved and the Filipinos were now 
at liberty to receive an education and worship as they chose. 

Doubtless some of the American soldiers had followed un- 
principled practices, after which some of the natives would pat- 
tern, but after everything has been properly adjusted these can be 
overcome. We find the good and bad element in the army as well 
as in civil life. It seems that in every undertaking both good and 
evil influences are set in motion. 

The relief battalion had now arrived and were sent in sections 
to all parts of the Islands to relieve our detachments, who were 
at work remodeling roads and bridges. These men directed the 
work and the labor was mostly performed by Filipinos who were 
usually employed at the rate of 50 cents per day. This was ex- 
tremely high wages for them and hundreds were turned away 
each day who sought employment from Americans. 

An order had been issued by the governor for an improvement 
of the harbor at Manila. A long pier was to be erected and 
dredges were set to work to make a channel for boats, that they 
might load or unload at the pier, thus saving thousands of dollars 
of expense, and it was thought that this would increase trade. 

The fresh battalion having been stationed, we were now in 
readiness to return to the United States. 






CHAP) KR XI. 

I'ROM MANILA TO NI*A\ NOKK BY WAY UI' SUKZ CANAI,. 

HE army transport, ^IcCkllan, had arri\(.'(l in the 
harbor and was engaged in tuiloading the cargo of 
rations. This was the boat on which we shotild 
make the return. Oin- clothing was inspected and 
placed in lockers and disinfected, so there would be 
no danger of carrying disease aboard. One morning near the 
middle of October, we fell in line and marched by the IvUneta, 
where we had spent so many enjoyable evenings. But these 
were forgotten for the present ; we walked as if on air, for this 
day we should go aboard the boat, bound for home, the boys re- 
marking in the meantime that we were going back to God's coun- 
try again. An Infantry band furnished us music as we marched 
down Malacolm drive. At the Pasig river we went on board 
lighters and the tug soon drew us out into the bay, the band 
playing "Good-bye, My Lover, Good-bye.'' 

We had been on so many transports that we knew just how to 
arrange things so that we might be comfortable. These were to 
be our quarters for the next two months, and we knew we should 
have to endure many rough gales before we reached New York. 
This transport was used for carrying supplies and rations from 
New York to Manila, but there were sufificient bunks for our three 
companies. The cabins were filled with many officers of the dif- 
ferent branches of the service, who were returning from Manila. 
Guards were placed on the deck and we were not allowed on the 
stern or aft, thus limiting our quarters to one-third of the deck 
room of the ship. This was to prevent the officers' wives from 
being molested as they reclined in their easy chairs on the deck. 
They could not bear to have an enlisted man pass them. So 
there we were, in rather cramped quarters. It is always in the 
commanding officer's power to allow freedom of decks if he 
chooses, and we thought as long as we conducted ourselves prop- 
erly we should have been given that privilege. But we suspected 
that the women had played the main part in issuing the orders, 
and all we could do was to obey and keep silent on the subject. 



162 ' Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

We soon reached the China Sea, and our course was directed to- 
ward Singapore. These, we were told, were the most treacher- 
ous waters seafaring men have to contend with, and oftentimes 
vessels fight their way through storms for weeks. They seem to 
draw the vessels in and hold them, carrying them with the storm. 
Tarpaulins were spread across the main deck, and when all the 
men were on deck, it was thickly crowded. Squatting on the 
deck, stories were told, some read, others argued, played crib- 
bage, high-five dominoes, checkers or chess. There was no band 
on this boat, but we had several splendid quartets, guitars, mando- 
lins and banjos. In the evenings we entertained ourselves with 
familiar songs, sometimes a hundred voices taking part. Very 
little rough weather was had at the beginning of the voyage. 

We anchored at Singapore one day about ten o'clock. There 
were no docks here, but life boats were lowered and passes were 
given to all who desired to go ashore. Singapore, on the Malay 
peninsula, is the largest seaport. It is under British control, and 
inhabited by East Indians — tall, dark, black haired, and with 
piercing black eyes. Here there were thousands of Chinese who 
pushed about jinrikishas. A large garrison of English soldiers 
was stationed here, and the city was clean and well regulated and 
in fine sanitary condition. There were fine parks, filled with 
beautiful flowers. In the natives' portion of the city there were 
beautiful streets and many business places. Our boat remained 
here two days and we visited many places of interest. Beyond 
the city we found beautiful roads, and thick vegetation. We 
visited several temples which were controlled by priests. There 
were many missions there, for that seemed to be one of their im- 
portant fields. 

Our boat left Singapore on the third morning after our arrival 
and we passed through the Strait of Malacca, approaching with- 
in one-half degree of the equator. Then our course was changed 
to northward, passing along the shores of Sumatra. This is 
under Dutch control. We passed through the strait, and were 
soon in the Indian Ocean. The weather was now a little rough, 
but there had been no storms. After seven or eight days we came 
in sight of the Island of Ceylon, and our vessel anchored about 
three miles ofif shore. We saw several queer looking objects ap- 
proaching and as they came alongside our boat we knew they 
were native bovs who were divers. They sat in line on a piece of 



From Manila to Nkw ^'oKK. 



163 



timber, which was kept in motion l)y their hands, which they used 
as paddles. Each stick was aljout hfteen feet long and accom- 
modated a dozen boys. They would rise on the log and dance 
and sing, calling out to us, "dive, dive." When we threw a coin 
into the water, about a dozen dove after it, jumping oil the log like 
bull frogs. The one who secured it always held up his arm above 
the water, showing the coin in his fingers. They remained near 




TARGET PRACTICE ON AN ARMY RANGE. 



our boat so long that we were almost of the opinion that they 
lived in the water. Their hair was bleached so as to be almost 
white. Again, all who wished were allowed to go on shore to 
the city of Colombo. Here we found many thousands of Boer 
prisoners and we spent some time visiting their camp, which was 
several miles beyond the city. They were well cared for, and their 
camp was clean. Many of them were restless and discontented, 
not being used to close confinement. The English soldiers were 
verv accommodating and allowed us many privileges. On our 



164 ARouNn THE World with Uncle Sam. 

return to the city we visited the Botanical and Cinnamon Gar- 
dens. The former was a large park, with animals, snakes and all 
sorts of creatures which inhabit the island. We wished that we 
might spend hours here looking at the plants, trees, flowers and 
birds of all curious varieties. This island being under British 
control, the seaports were well regulated. The natives here some- 
what resembled those of Singapore. Many of the women wore 
rings in the noses and ears. Carriages were drawn by cattle and 
it was very amusing to us to see a cow trotting along the street 
drawing a covered carriage, filled with American soldiers, laugh- 
ing and chattering. There were many temples in the city, and 
this was a good missionary field, as it was well protected by the 
English. We noticed that all small children were without cloth- 
ing, some having a locket and chain around the neck. It seemed 
that these people were fond of jewelry. 

When we boarded the boat we found the Hindoo magicians 
there. They had with them a large cobra. They first took up a 
collection and then began on their tricks. One began by remov- 
ing hard round stones from his mouth. He drew five from his 
mouth, each one in turn growing larger. Then he insisted that 
he must have more money before removing more. Another con- 
tribution was made for him and he took three more out, each 
larger than the preceding one. The boys called for more. He 
agreed to take a very large one from his mouth another sum of 
money. This was raised and he removed a large, hard, round 
stone from his mouth. In the meantime his comrade was talking 
over the snake. He performed several other small tricks, and 
then told us that for one dollar he would make the mango tree 
grow. The dollar was soon produced and he produced the seed 
from which the tree must grow, his partner still talking to the 
snake. He placed the seed on the deck, took a large cloth, shook 
out its folds, and then placed it over the seed. Then stepping 
back he passed his hands in front of him, humming in a low 
pleasant tone, "Gildy, gildy, gildy grow," repeating it again and 
again, still passing his hands in front of his face. The other man 
was still busy with the snake. In a short time the cloth began to 
rise. Higher and higher it went, tie soon removed the cloth, 
and we found that the mango seed had split open and from it had 
grown a tree twelve or fourteen inches high, covered with green 



FRO^[ -M.wii.A To Ni'.w York. 165 

leaves. This he took up, \vrapi)e(l it in his clolli and takin^- up 
their snake they soon departed, hidding us o()o(l-l)yc. 

Small native boats loaded with curios and trinkets of all des- 
criptions came out from the city. After these came boats with 
fruit, oranges, bananas, and coral of the most beautiful colors. 
Our boat remained here three days, taking on large quantities of 
coal and fresh meat. We then continued on our way across the 
Indian Ocean. We next passed Aden, but did not stop there. 
In this city on the Arabian coast it is necessary to condense water 
for use. This we were told was a city of little interest. Next we 
passed through the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, with Arabia on 
our right, Africa to the left. To the left we could see a large 
flag staff. This we were told was English Aden. The coast line 
and rocks which were visible on either side were red. From this 
the Red Sea derives its name. This sea is long and narrow and 
we were in the path of ocean steamers which we passed every few 
hours, most of them flying the British flag, and we could form 
some idea of the great commerce carried on by that country. 
Many of the large ocean liners sped past us, they being faster 
boats than ours. On Sunday as we journeyed along this sea, the 
chaplain on board held service and preached to us. He told 
us that if we arose early enough the next morning we could see 
Mt. Sinai from the boat. Many of us were up earlier than usual, 
and an old sailor, who was on the lookout pointed it out to us. 
Here the great leader of Israel had received the commandments, 
written by the finger of God, on a tablet of stone. There it stood 
like a grand monument, soon passing from our view. Our next 
stop was at Suez, a Turkish port. There \ye anchored and 
. awaited our turn to pass through the canal. 

A small boat rowed along side and a large Turkish doctor came 
aboard to inspect our boat, after which the quarantine flag was 
hauled down. The water here was very clear, and we could see 
the bottom far down beneath the boat. Large sharks could be 
seen swimming around our boat, piloted by a long neat fish, 
which remained under the jaws of the shark, and is called the 
pilot fish. With every one that came near we saw that it was ac- 
companied by its pilot. Other fishes of many sizes and varieties 
could be seen in the water which was clear as crystal. 

After waiting several hours, anchor was drawn and we pro- 
ceeded on our wav through the canal, one of the great engineer- 



166 Around 'ni' \\\ rid with I'xci.k Sam. 

ing feats of the age ; a waterway which allows the largest ocean 
steamers to pass from the Red Sea into the Mediterranean and 
covering a distance of eighty-seven miles. A French pilot came 
aboard and a searchlight was placed in the bow of the vessel. We 
made our way slowly, passing many vessels and crossing a large 
lake. ( )n one side of the shore we noticed several boys with 
dark hair and dark complexions, wearing gowns which came to 
the knees. We soon secured a lot of hardtack, which we pitched 
ashore, and had them racing after us. One of them soon became 
winded and gave up the race, but the other continued running, 
puffing and sweating, his gown ilapping mcrrilv about his legs. 
This interfered considerably with his progress, so he removed it 
and then was able to make better time. But our boat started at 
a more rapid movement and he was compelled to fall behind too. 

On awakening next morning we found that our boat had tied 
up at the docks at Port Said, and was coaling there. No one was 
allowed to go ashore as they were under quarantine, the city be- 
ing infected with Bubonic plague. Large tin shields were placed 
on the hausers, which were tied to the dock. These were to pre- 
vent rats from going aboard the boat, and carrying the disease 
with them. After coaling, our lines were loosened and we made 
our way into the Mediterranean, bound for Malta. The weather 
was now delightful, the sky blue and at night the water seemed 
to be tilled with lights. This was the Bosphorus and many times 
the water seemed to be filled with electricity. 

After many days of pleasant sailing land was again sighted and 
we made our way into a small and beautiful harbor, with a city 
on either side of us. This island is directly south of Sicily. Here 
Paul was shipwrecked when being taken from Jerusalem to 
Rome. This we found to be a beautiful little island with an ideal 
climate. The natives were dark but verv nice looking, being 
very well proportioned, and very friendly they were too. We 
learned that there were a large number of English soldiers here 
on account of a threatened outbreak, caused by a tax which had 
been levied upon them for Boer War expenses. We were here 
allowed ashore again and many of us went far out in the country 
beyond the city. We saw many queer looking castles, surrounded 
by stone walls. Along the roads were stone fences and many of 
the fields were separated by similar structures. Large quantities 



FkM M.WI a T-; Xi.W ^'<:I<K. 



167 



of veo-etables were raised and tisliins;- was carried on extensively 
in the waters immediately surroundini^- the island. 

Here we staved three days and then continued our journey 
across the Mediterranean, and it was not lon.u' milil we saw the 
point of Gibraltar loomino- up in the distance. We i)assed behind 
this sea wall and remained here until the vessel had a,u:ain coaled. 
The weather was very stormy and roui^li. but we were well pro- 




A GROUP OF ARMY SERGEANTS. 



tected from it as long as we remained here. Shore leave was 
granted again, and many of the men stepped for the first time 
upon European soil. We found that the place was stronglx' 
fortified. Large caves have been cut in the rock and it has been 
said that the English have these stored with ammunition and 
rations, there being enough to last a large garrison twenty \ears. 
This is a naval base and the British Mediterranean fleet has its 
headquarters here. We crossed a small drawbridge into Spanish 
territory. On one side of the bridge were English guards, on the 
other Spanish. We could see many Spanish villages along the 



168 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

shore line, and a railroad extending inland. Twenty miles distant 
across the strait could be seen the coast of Morocco. 

Our boat remained here three or four days waiting for the 
storm to subside. We then left the harbor passed through the 
Strait of Gibraltar and were soon out on the great Atlantic. We 
took the southern route for New York, passing the Canary 
Islands on our way. Several days later we were overtaken by a 
great storm. In the evening the sky looked extremely gray — and 
the hatches were battened down, and the sailors went about with 
serious faces, one old sailor remarking that from all indica- 
tions we were running into a terrible storm. He said the wind 
was heading direct from the northwest, and we could expect a 
terrible blow. He was an old man, and had been a sailor all his 
life, so we felt that we were nearing danger. The wind was then 
rapidly 'rising and soon everything was a continual roar. The 
boat pitched and rolled. IMany had placed their mess pans over 
their bunks, and these w&re shaken and dislodged from their posi- 
tions and went rattling backward and forward on the deck. It 
was impossible to stand now without holding. We had noticed 
that in the evening the pilot had been lashed fast to the pilot 
house, so he might be able to handle the wheel. We did not 
wonder now at this precaution, for we were unable to stand at 
all without a firm hold on some object. 

Our boat's course was directly against the wind. Oftentimes 
when on a large swell the propeller was clear of the water, the 
wind would drive us back for quite a distance, then the bow would 
strike a large swell and divide it, the water flying high in the air, 
later to come down on the deck like a ton of brick. The boat 
quivered and seemed to crouch, as though another wave like that 
would splinter it to pieces. A few became sick and now and then 
we could hear some one faintlv singing. 



"O ! Air. Captain, stop the ship, 

I want to get ont and walk, 

I feel so flippcrty, flopperty flip. 

And I think I'll never see New York. 

O ! .Mr. Captain, stop the ship, 
Methinks of the wrecking main. 
High, high! Send me a cab, 
To take me home again." 



From IMaxh.a to New York. 169 

Some laughed at the storm, but as another swell struck us 
others would remark, "she is going this time sure." 

Three days passed in this way and there were no signs of the 
storm abating. The wind was now blowing a gale and the 
sailors claimed it was traveling at the rate of sixty to seventy- 
five miles an hour. Our boat reeled like a drunken man as she 
crossed these swells, going from side to side, then pitching for- 
ward. Sometimes she would ride a large swell and as this passed 
from under her it seemed as though the bottom of the ocean had 
dropped out letting us down with a heavy jerk. After six days 
of storm the wind began to abate, but the rollers seemed larger 
than before. Sails were used to steady the vessel for it was light. 
The coal was almost gone from her bunkers and it was impossible 
to reach New York with such a small amount. Our vessel was 
then headed for Bermuda, ofif the coast of the United States, and 
opposite Charleston, South Carolina. After several days had 
passed these w^ere sighted, and there our grand old boat anchored. 

We felt very respectful toward her, now that she had with- 
stood the storm so heroically and carried us through the danger. 
On our wav into the harbor we passed many wrecked vessels. 
Some with masts and smoke stacks blown completely away. A 
number of them were fowled into the harbor by tugs, to receive 
repairs before continuing on their way. They had not been so 
fortunate as we, for our boat . _ . come thus far without an ac- 
cident. Coal barges ran alongside our vessel and men were soon 
busy filling the bunkers. This took several days for our supply 
was almost exhausted. In the meantime we were observing the 
islands. We were near the beautiful little town of Hamilton, and 
could see cottages and houses in the distance, which appeared as 
mere dots. We found that a great man>' wealthy people w^ere 
accustomed to spending the winter there; that large quantities 
of vegetables were raised there, but the principal one was onions. 
These were large yellow Spanish onions, some of which would 
weigh several pounds. 

Our boat having been supplied with coal we started again on 
the homeward voyage. The weather was extremely mild, as our 
course lav now along the Gulf Stream. We all went about in 
shirt sleeves. But this did not last long and as we journeyed 
northward, the air became chilly and the boys were soon search- 
ins- for overcoats and gloves. Two days later we sighted the 



170 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

great Scotland light, which marks the entrance to New York 
Harbor. This we soon passed, then Sandy Hook and Staten 
Island. Snow covered the ground, making us feel very chilly. 
To our right on Long Island was Ft. Hamilton, to our left Ft. 
Wadsworth on Staten Island. These were familiar places to us, 
for we had often visited friends there. Then the Statue of 
Liberty could be seen in front of us on Liberty Island. What a 
great harbor this is ! Boats darting in all directions, ocean liners 
passing in and out, large ferry boats ploughing their way through 
the water, giving the harbor a confusing appearance. 

This well deserves the name of being the greatest harbor in the 
world. As we passed on we were all admiring that great structure 
— the East River suspension bridge. Next we turned to observe 
the great city in front of us, dotted with its tall skyscrapers, which 
appeared like tall chimneys beside the smaller buildings. After 
passing quarantine the boat ran in to the Jersey pier, thereby com- 
pleting our tour of the world, with Uncle Sam. Here we found 
many anxious friends awaiting us for most of our comrades' 
homes were near the city of New York. It was now very near 
Christmas time, December 20th, and all whose homes were near, 
were granted a twenty day furlough. The remainder of our 
number proceeded on to Jefferson Barracks, Missouri, arriving 
at that place the day after Christmas. Jefferson Barracks had 
been changed since my short stay there three years previous. 
The place looked unfamiliar to me since improvements had been 
made. As we marched up the steep hillside we passed the new 
headquarters building in front of which was ' placed a large 
Spanish gun, which had been captured and taken from the Reina 
Mercedes. Here we had a good view of the Mississippi, which 
now appeared so small to us after the voyage. Our company 
was soon comfortably settled in the new barracks, and we were 
set to work at drilling recruits, who came in to fill up our com- 
pany, which was far below the required number. I had been 
promoted to corporal during the campaign in China and now 
spent many hours drilling "rukies." We were to remain at the 
barracks until the coming spring, when we were to proceed to 
Ft. Leavenworth, near Kansas City. This was the military 
school for officers and was to become one of the largest garrisons 
in the United States. 



From Manila '("o Ni;\\ "S'okk. 171 

Engineers, infantry, cavalry, signal corps and artillery were to 
be stationed there. Old buildings were put in l)ettcr condition 
and new ones erected. Winter passed quickdy by, and many of 
us witnessed the breaking of the ground for the World's 
Fair to be held near St. Louis the next year. In the month of 
April we were sent to Ft. Leavenworth, where many thousands 
were arriving for garrison duty. We were kept busy here drill- 
ing our company in making spar bridges, going on reconnaissance, 
making maps, surveying and various other duties. The weather 
was pleasant and the different troops engaged in many exciting 
games of ball. This was a favorite sport with the soldiers and 
many of them were expert players. There was a splendid target 
range here and in May our target season began. A large military 
prison was erected and many hundreds of convicts, who had 
received hard labor sentences, were here carefully guarded. Most 
of these were from Indian Territory, New Mexico and Arizona. 
All criminals from these territories were sent to the militry 
prison. 

My term of service expired on May 25th and I decided to 
leave the service. After receiving my discharge I bade my com- 
rades good-bye, and left Ft. Leavenworth to enter civil life; thus 
ending my six years' service in the United States Army. 




CHAPTER Xll. 

ARMY HAPPENINGS. 

UR lieutenant colonel often drilled the regiment when 
the captain was absent. He was a tall fleshy old 
man and had a very high-spirited horse of which 
he was very much afraid. He liked to put on airs 
when he was drilling us, but was always very ner- 
vous and fidgety and soon received the name of "Old Man Afraid 
of His Horse." We often had some very hearty laughs over his 
antics. He would tell us he was going to give a very difficult 
command to execute, then he would start to give the command. 
When he would raise his voice the horse would begin to canter and 
jump and he would finish up with "fours right," then before fin- 
ishing the command, would say to his horse: "Whoa boy! 
Whoa boy! March!" and would forget all about his wonderful 
command. One day while at drill the horse became frightened, 
throwing his rider off and breaking his leg below the knee, laying 
him up for several months. He turned his horse over to the cap- 
tain of Company G to break in for him. This captain we called 
"Dandy Pat." Dandy soon had him under control. Oftentimes 
when giving a command the horse would jump, and "Dandy" 
would hit him between the ears with the hilt of his sword. 

We often had quite a lot of amusement with new recruits while 
on their first guard duty. One of our most exciting drills was 
bayonet exercise. The gun is thrown forward in parries and 
lunges, placed in many different kinds of guards, butt of the 
piece forced to the rear, right and left, front and rear passes are 
executed with right and left volts in conjunction with the move- 
ment of the piece and making a very beautiful and exciting drill. 
This drill is always taught to the recruits, so as to accustom them 
to the use of their piece. We had a new German recruit and of 
course the boys made him believe that this bayonet drill covered 
every dutv, to afford them some amusement. It came the turn of 
this new recruit for guard duty. He was placed on post, which 
was around the corridor of the cell in the inside of the guard- 
house. This was his first tour of guard duty and he was very 



174 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

much excited, forgetting almost everything except bayonet exer- 
cise and a few instrvictions in fire orders, which some practical 
joker had given him before going on duty. The officer of the 
guard always visits sentries on posts to see that they understand 
their orders properly. On approaching this German sentry he 
asked him several orders, then inquired what he would do if two 
of the prisoners would try to take his gun. He remarked, he 
would step back and go through his bayonet exercise. The officer 
explained to him it would be his duty to shoot and pay no atten- 
tion to the bayonet drill. He next asked him what he would do, 
if while guarding the building it would catch fire, he said he 
would shoot ofif his gun and then pile on more wood. The officer 
was compelled to remove him from post and have the corporal of 
his relief instruct him in guard duty. 

Two great characters in our company, were Becker, a bugler 
and Kennedy a private. They were bunkies and one would al- 
ways see them together. They were both great "tipplers." Becker 
had been in the service twenty-nine years and was very seldom 
sober. His clothes were generally greasy and every one called 
him "Piggy." Kennedy we called "Chicken Thief." The way 
this name originated he and "Becker" were out one night and as 
they were returning to the barracks they passed a Chinese laundry, 
which was in the garrison. Sam, the Chinaman, had a number 
of chickens. Kennedy had seen these and this night stole a large 
rooster, bringing it to the quarters under his overcoat, he had 
placed it in the bottom of his locker. The next morning about 
da}-break the rooster began crowing from his locker. Kennedy 
slipped the door open and meant to wring the fowl's neck. The 
rooster slipped past him and started down the room squawking, 
with Kennedy in pursuit in his underwear. The rooster landed 
on Sergeant Porter's bunk, squawking, flew against a window 
knocking down a few flowers which the Sergeant had near his 
bunk. The segeant collared Kennedy placed him under arrest, 
but later on relented and Kennedy was given a week's duty in the 
kitchen for disturbing the peace of the squad room. That night 
Becker had taken his blanket and made a bed on the veranda. 
He was bald-headed and it being a very cold night the top of his 
head was frozen ; it then turned black and peeled off. Several 
weeks later Kennedy had been on a "jamboree," and had been out 
dissipating all night. The next day it was his turn for guard 



Army Haitknings. 175 

duty. He was guarding- prisoners, kcci)ing" Ihein at work and 
preventing their escape. They had been hauhng ashes to the 
dump ground, which was located about one-lialf mile back of Q. 
M. stables in a deep ravine. Kennedy being tired had sat down 
on a box while they were dumping the cart. He was in charge of 
two desperate prisoners. He dozed oiT into a light sleep and while 
sleeping the prisoners approached him stealthily, grabbed his gun 
and made him their prisoner. They marched him back about 
three miles from the fort. Here they halted him and made him 
stand bv a tree. They proceeded onward about onedialf mile, 
where they leaned his gun against a bush and then i)assed on 
over the hill out of sight. Kennedy proceeded, secured his rifle 
and as it was impossible to recapture them he returned to the 
guardhouse and gave the alarm. Here his belt was removed and 
he was placed behind the bars. A general court-martial was 
ordered, he was tried by eleven officers and sentenced to three 
months' hard labor and thirty dollars fine. This seemed to 
straighten him out, for after returning to the company for duty 
he was a much better soldier. After "Piggy" had served his 
thirty years he was retired on three-ciuarter pay and allowances. 
The last news we had of him he was a messenger for some de- 
partment commander, but if he continued his drinking like he 
did while in the company the chances are he did not hold his situa- 
tion very long. 

It is often very comical to watch an inexperienced corporal 
trying to drill a company of recruits. One day the corporal was 
drilling a squad of recruits and was explaining the dift'erence be- 
tween quick and double time, that in quick time a step is taken in 
thirty inches and two steps to the second. Double time the men 
take a run and increase the speed. He had not explained to them 
that when they return from double time to quick, they should take 
their former pace. After he commanded quick time, they being 
in double time thought he meant that they should go faster and 
they ran away from him. he following up calling on them to stop, 
but they did not hear him and continued on imtil some one cross- 
ing in front of them checked their movement. The corporal now 
came up out of breath telling them he had meant that they should 
take up the march instead of running a foot race. It is very easy 
to become confused as a drill instructor and one must understand 
drill regulations and explain them very carefully. 



176 Around the World with Uncle; Sam. 

A German member of our company while on the firing hne at 
El Caney was conversing with comrades on both sides of him ; the 
one on the right ceased to talk to him and he remarked to the 
comrade on the left that he must be asleep. The fire continued 
and after a while the one on the left ceased talking also. The 
German after firing from his position for awhile, having no one 
to talk to moved back several yards, where there was a rise ; 
later on he found that his two comrades had been killed and he 
had been lying between them for several hours thinking they 
were asleep. 

At El Caney a number of us were visiting the village the day 
after the battle. Going down a road we crossed a bridge which is 
on the edge of the village. We had left our guns at our tents a 
couple hundred yards up on the hill. We explored the town 
with its awful effects of battle, viewing the bodies of the Spanish 
general and staff. On the general's light blue uniform were three 
silver stars on each shoulder. A friend of mine began cutting 
off several of these stars with his pen-knife. We told him we 
would not take these, but he remarked that he wanted them for 
souvenirs. They never did him any good, as he died about four 
weeks later with dysentery. After looking over the town we 
started to return to our camp. "Fatty Allen", a large jolly cor- 
poral had captured a small pig. He would hold it under one arm 
and twist its tail, making it squeal. Crossing the bridge on our 
left was the blockhouse ; several of the boys had gone here to in- 
vestigate it, there being a Cuban with them. They found the door 
barred and upon trying to open it, a Spanish captain inside asked 
them what they wanted. This surprised them, as they did not 
know there was any one inside. The Cubans told him they wanted 
him to surrender. We could now hear their conversation and the 
Spanish officer remarked that he would never surrender to 
Americans and began firing from the loop-holes in the block- 
house. The men nearest the blockhouse jumped into an intrench- 
ment near by. We were in plain view about seventy-five yards 
distant, and he opened fire on us, we starting up the hill on "a 
jump, "Fatty Allen" dropping his pig which ran away squealing. 
About every fifteen seconds a bullet would whiz by our heels or 
over our heads, as we ran up the hill as fast as our legs would 
carry us. After reaching our guns several details were made up 
of sharpshooters, which directed a fire against the blockhouse, 



Army Happenings. 



177 



from several directions and in about one-half hour the Spanish 
captain was wounded and taken prisoner. 

While hiui;- in our inlrenchments near S;nUiat;(i, aloni;' the San 
Luis and Santiag:o railway, a few days after the surrender of this 
place, the Commander of the Fifth Army Corps moved his head- 
(juarters to a rang-e of low hills on our ri^ht. I lis outtlt ])assed 
b^• our camp. The general, who was a large, tleshy man, weigh- 
ing over three hundred pounds, was bringing up the rear in a 




SCENE IX ARMY SLEEPING ROOM. 



four-wheeled runabout, drawn l)y two large army mules. Over 
him was a large umbrella. His face was purple with heat and 
he was mopping the perspiration from his large, massive jaws. 

Evervone began laughing as he came into view, nearly all of 
us getting out of sight behind bushes. Tied to the back end of 
his buggv was a cow, and following it was a small calf. I ])on 
seeing this, several of the boys who were hidden, began to call, 
"Baa! Baa! Baa!" then from some other clump some one would 
call — "Give that calf more rope!" The general looked about in 
everv direction, but could see no one of whom he could incjuire 



178 Around the; World with Uncle Sam. 

to find out where this noise was coming from. As he passed out 
of sight, we no longer wondered how he managed to keep on such 
large proportions of flesh, as he had a cow from which he could 
receive a large supply of milk at any time. 

Great honor should be given to the Y. M. C. A., as they man- 
aged to keep the soldiers supplied with writing material and 
large quantities of reading matter, such as newspapers and mag- 
azines. Their tent could always be seen near soldier camps and 
the boys certainly owe them many thanks for their kindness. 

While stationed near St. Louis, just after the outbreak of the 
natives in the Philippines, I was conversing with a Missouri 
farmer, who hauled the slop and garbage away from the kitchen, 
and at length he brought up the subject of the Spanish- American 
war. As he drove away, he said: "Well, Sergeant, I don't 
reckon this squabble is squashed yet." I laughingly remarked 
that I didn't suppose it was, but he perhaps meant there would be 
more fighting before this matter was settled. 

While enroute for the Philippines, a member of our company 
who was a Kentuckian by birth and very high tempered, had a 
dispute and quarrel with one of the boat's crew. The member of 
the crew was a New Yorker, and had a reputation of being quite 
a pugilist. The Kentuckian was detailed as a helper in the mess 
galley, where he assisted the cooks. The New Yorker tormented 
him and kept trying to have a fight with him, and one day he 
struck the Kentuckian in the face. There was a large butcher 
knife lying near and the Kentuckian started after his enemy with 
this. Overtaking him, he cut two long gashes down his back, 
and tlien broke the knife ofif in his right shoulder blade. As the 
New "^'ork boy turned to defend himself with his hand, the Ken- 
tuckian slashed his hand several times with the broken knife. 
Several men caught him and forced him back. The injured man 
was carried to the hospital, where it took over one hundred 
stitches to shape him up again. The Kentuckian was taken to 
the brig, where he was locked up for safe keeping. The other 
man recovered, and after we landed in the Philippines, a court 
martial was ordered for the soldier, but the case never came to 
trial and nothing more was ever heard of it. 

While repairing a bridge near Paranake, we were digging out 
an old abutment, built from stone and mortar. Several members 
of our detachment were working together, among theni a Jew, 



Au.\n- 1 1 Ai'i'i-.Nixcs. 17!J 

whom we called "Ravenscaiiip." Several boys warned "Raven" 
not to g-et too near, as they ex])C'cted the abntnienl tn topple over, 
but he only laughed at them and walked \\\) and struek it with 
his pick, when it came down, burying him under it, all except his 
head. We soon had him dragged out. 'leaking him under a 
large tree, everyone thinking he was dead, water was brought and 
thrown over his face and after several minutes he began to show 
signs of recovery. His right leg had been crushed and as he 
opened his eves and began to spit, the first words he uttered were : 
"My hat!" No one heeded him, and he kept on, "My hat! my 
hat !" After carrying on about his hat for several minutes, one 
of the boys secured it and brought it to him and i)laced it in his 
hand. The first thing he did was to turn the inside rim out and 
remove five hundred dollars in American greenbacks, which he 
had hidden on the inside of his hat. ]\Iost of this he had won 
from the colored boys on the transport and while we were sta- 
tioned at San Fernando, with his game of chuck-a-luck. He 
now turned his money over to the lieutenant for safe keeping and 
he was sent to the First Reserve hospital. Here he remained for 
about a one year, and then received his discharge for disability, 
and the last we ever heard of him he was drawing a pension of 
thirty-five dollars per month. 

A queer character in our company was a man 1)\- the name of 
Palmer. He could hardly open his mouth without uttering an 
oath. He spoke very loud, and one could usually hear him 
farther than you could see him. After we had been on the 
Islands awhile, one day Palmer was trying to purchase some 
eggs. He could not speak the Spanish language sufficiently to 
make the native understand him, so when he arrived near the 
native he motioned for him to come to him. Motioning among 
the Filipinos has just the opposite meaning to what it has in our 
language. H you wish one to come towards, motion away from 
vou ; and to go away, motion towards you. Palmer motioned 
towards himself and the native started the other way. Palmer 
began to curse and rave, as he usually did. when he became ex- 
cited, frightening the poor native nearly to death. After he made 
him understand he wanted something, he then inquired of the na- 
tive how many denero he wanted for the eggs. All the native 
could understand was denero and he said something resembling 
chicken. Palmer started in on him again — "Now you know I 



180 Around tiik \\'( ki.d wrn: L^xci.i-; Sam. 

don't want chicken. I want eggs. All the r.ative conld say was, 
"Me no sabe." (I don't understand.) After Palmer had ex- 
ploded several times, raving like a maniac, an interpreter was se- 
cured and the deal was completed for five gull eggs, which the 
native had for sale, Palmer going away growling to himself. 
One night we were in a dangerous locality, where we expected an 
attack most any time. Palmer took a nervous chill from fright. 
We had a hospital nurse with us, whom we called "Doc." He 
understood medicine nearly as well as a doctor. Palmer was 
carrying on, moaning and shaking, when we called for "Doc." 
He examined him and told him there was nothing wrong with 
him. Palmer said, "You know I am dying now!" Then he began 
again, saying, "Rub me, Doc, rub me. I'm dying all over." In 
the morning he became better and was able to eat a hearty break- 
fast for a sick man. The boys said he had taken this means of 
getting out of doing his guard duty. Later on he w^as discharged 
for disability and the communication came to our company head- 
quarters from the pension department, asking if there was any 
member of the company that knew of Palmer being struck over 
the head by a piece of bamboo. No one knew of this circum- 
stance, and we never learned whether he received a pension or 
not. 

While lying at Angelus, in northern Luzon, awaiting an ad- 
vance, our hospital nurse, "Doc," hired about two dozen natives 
for litter bearers to carry wounded ofif the field. One of these he 
made boss over the rest, as he could talk and understood Spanish 
well. After he had been placed in this position he became very 
dignified, putting on quite a little style. He obtained a fine white 
helmet, a suit of khaki clothing and a pair of army shoes. He 
strutted around, making his native helpers believe that he had 
been placed in command of the American forces. We soon had 
him nicknamed "El Capitan." It was comical to see him trying 
to walk in American shoes. He would hobble along and it looked 
as though he needed crutches, but it was impossible to make him 
give up his shoes and red socks, and his red, white and blue neck- 
tie, which he had secured while visiting in Manila. As we ad- 
vanced on the right flank with the Seventeenth Infantry, under 
command of Colonel Jaky Smith, "El Capitan" became very tired, 
his shoes blistering his feet severely, but his dignity would not 
permit him to remove his shoes and go barefooted as the helpers 



Ar.m\- TTai'I'I'.nincs. 



181 



did. "El Capitan" kept a close watch, and as \vc passed a vouii.o- 
native with a caribou, "El Capitan" pulled the vouno- fellow off 
and he took the animal for his own use, riding- it along, holding- 
its tail with one hand and guiding it with the other. He man- 
aged the caribou nearly all day. Towards evening we passed a 
squad of soldiers, resting. He looked so comical that they 
thought they would have some fun with him. They began cheer- 
ing and frightened his caribou, and soon "\\\ C\-i])itau" was going 




AN ARMY CAMP KITCHEN. 



up the road along the Banban river as fast as the caribou could 
gallop. The road turned into the river, which was crossed by 
fording. The caribou dashed into the river with "El Capitan" 
still clinging to its tail. As he came into the water he laid down 
to cool himself, Init his rider still clung to him. "El Capitan" 
became wet to his ears. After the caribou had wallowed in the 
water awdiile "El Capitan" managed to get him out again. He 
kept this animal for several months and returned with it to his 
native village. Later on the owner made a demand for it through 



182 Around the; World with Uncle Sam. 

the authorities, but we never knew whether "El Capitan" was 
compelled to return it or not. 

One day we were busy rebuilding a large railroad bridge on 
the Manila and Dagupan line. Our supplies were all kept at the 
depot, about one and one-half miles distant. We used a handcar 
with a rope attached, to pull our saws, sledges, hammers, nails and 
other supplies back and forth. Our Jew, "Ravenscamp." was 
placed in charge of this car with five of our Chinese coolies. The 
Jew was good for nothing else except some light work like this. 
We needed a quantity of large bolts, which were stored 
away at the old depot. "Raven" was dispatched to bring these 
as soon as possible, as we were waiting for the material. We 
waited for an hour or more, but still there was no sign of 
"Raven." After waiting for two hours, our lieutenant became 
impatient and went in search of him. As he rode up, he found 
"Raven" sitting in the shade, with one of his Chinese helpers 
fanning him and chasing off the flies. Our lieutenant, who was 
very quick tempered exploded at once. . The Chenos were 
hustled after the bolts at once and soon had them aboard the car. 
When they were ready to start, the lieutenant said, "Now, Ra- 
venscroft, you have just three minutes to get this car down to 
the bridge, and if you don't get there on time, I will have vou 
court-martialed and bobtailed from the army." "Raven" glanced 
at him a moment, then turned to the Chinamen, saying, "Now, 
Chenos, I just give you two minutes and a half to get this car to 
the bridge, and if you don't, I will shoot you all at sunrise in the 
morning." Of course the Chinamen could not understand him, 
and the lieutenant rode away, laughing and remarking that that 
Jew was the toughest proposition he had ever come across. 

At our company headquarters in Malate barracks, we had a 
large cage, and as the detachments returned from the campaigns 
in the north and south, all the monkeys they secured were placed 
in the cage to be kept for pets. We sometimes had four dozen in 
the cage at one time. Our oldest and favorite pet was Fanny, 
a female monkey. She was always kept outside the cage and 
fastened to a long chain, which was fastened to a strap buckled 
across her back and just in front of her hind legs. She was a 
very cunning little animal, and had her favorites among the boys 
in the company. If on the shoulder of one of her favorite friends, 
no one could persuade her to leave, for she would cling to them 



Arnh' 1 I.\i'I'i;nings. 183 

and bite and scratch if anyone attempted to remove her. Iler 
friends fed her mangos, peanuts and bananas. When they ap- 
proached with these articles of food in their pockets, Fanny al- 
ways knew it and began tugging away at her chain. tr\ing to 
break loose. When they came near enough she would leap to their 
shoulders, make a great fuss over them and then search for the 
dainties. Sometimes the boys came without them and then she 
would remove the hat and search through the hair. Anyone who 
had ever frightened, scolded or used her roughly, she would not 
allow to approach her without biting and scratching, and never 
made friends with them again. A comrade who had been in the 
service twenty or twenty-five years came in one evening slightly 
"hors de combat." It was very late, so he lay down on the grass 
near the cage and was soon fast asleep. In his pockets were 
twenty-five Mexican dollars and Fanny was soon busy removing 
these. She hid them in every part of her nest, which was in a 
box near the cage. One she secreted in the pocket in under her 
lower jaw. In the morning, when a friend approached, this she 
removed and gave to him. When the old soldier awoke, he found 
his pockets were empty. We searched the place and secured all 
but five or six pesos, wdiich she had either thrown away or had 
thrown them to the monkeys in the cage, where they had probably 
hidden them in some nook or corner. We often took several of our 
favorites out to catch spiders. They were very fond of them and 
would climb over the trees for hours, hunting for them. They were 
deadly afraid of ants, and if we pretended to take one from the 
ground to place upon them, they would run and scream with 
terror. Near Queen Isabella monument was a large fountain, 
where we often took them and threw bright objects into the water 
to see them dive. These they would secure and then swim 
through the water with great enjoyment. The largest monkey 
we called "Chauncey." He escaped and made his nest on top 
of the barracks, in a long ventilator. iMost of the boys had small 
hand mirrors, combs and other toilet articles, which were placed 
on shelves at the foot of our bunks. When all were absent from 
the sleeping quarters, "Chauncey" would leave his hiding place, 
slide down the center post and help himself to combs, mirrors and 
everything in sight. Later we would see him sitting on his lofty 
perch. There he would sit and turn his head from side to side, 
making uglv faces at himself in the glass. At length he would 



184 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

think it was another monkey and reach out his arms to embrace 
it, when the glass would drop from his paws, breaking in many 
pieces below him. Oftentimes when the men were asleep in their 
bunks he would creep cautiously out with some article in his paw 
and when directly over some bunk, let it drop on the sleeper and 
then scamper back to his retreat. We often tried to capture him, 
but were unable to do so. We kept our pets until we were ready 
to sail for home, when we were compelled to leave them behind, 
for we were not allowed to transport them to the United States. 
While stationed in Bell Tower, in Peking, we were one day 
very much stirred up over a quarrel between several members of 
our company — Lyle, a Kentuckian who had been engaged in a 
cutting scrape aboard the transport, and Mouthemont, or "Mon- 
key-monkey," as we called him. ''Monkey" was a draftsman in 
our engineer office, while Lyle was a servant or "dog robber" for 
our lieutenant. We were all in the dining room awaiting our 
dinner, and Lyle was somewhat under the influence of liquor. 
"Monkey" was relating an amusing incident which had occurred 
the day before, while Lyle was waiting upon the lieutenant. As 
"Monkey" told his tory, Lyle, who was about half asleep in his 
chair, would raise his head and remark: "'Monkey,' you ah a 
dahned liah." "Monkey" again repeated the tale and again Lyle 
remarked, "You ah a dahned liah." "Monkey" turned to him, 
saying : "Lyle, I am going to repeat this again and you had bet- 
ter be careful what you say." Again "]\lonkey" repeated the 
story, to which Lyle answered, " 'Monkey,' you ah a dahned 
liah." This time "Monkey"stepped to his chair and landed a 
blow on the Kentuckian's nose. Lyle jumped to his feet and the 
blood flew in every direction. Glancing to the right he spied a 
large butcher knife, which the cook had used to cut bread. He 
made a leap for the knife, and "Monkey," fearing the result of an 
encounter with him, turned and fled through the little door, which 
was the only avenue of escape. Through this he dashed like a 
rabbit with a dog in pursuit. Lyle was about two paces behind 
him, vainlv trying to slash him with his knife. "Monkey" made 
a bee line for our detachment headquarters, covering the distance 
in less time than he had ever done before. Lyle soon gave up the 
chase and returned to the dining room, and as the fierce light died 
out of his eves, soon became as meek as a lamb. He then felt 
verv sorrv for what he had done and asked me to intercede for 



Army Haim'Knings. 185 

him and persuade "Monkey" to let the matter (h-op and not report 
to the Heutenant. • In that case he would probably have been 
court-martialed. His term of service would expire in three days, 
and he had no desire to spend months in prison. I started in 
search of "Monkey" and found him standing- near a sentry for 
protection, shivering with fear and awaitino- the return of our 
lieutenant, who was away in the city. I persuaded him to return 
to the quarters with me, but in my hand 1 carried a club, which he 
made me promise I would use in case Lyle made another attempt 
to injure him. We soon got the boys together and they shook 
hands and agreed to be friends, but "Monkey" was still very shy 
and made sure that the knife was placed out of Lyle's reach. 
Three davs later Lyle secured his discharge and left the company 
for good. 

English officers and their East Indian orderlies were very con- 
spicuouslv brought to our notice in Peking. The officers were 
mounted upon fine horses and would dash out of camp toward the 
city, the horse galloping, followed by the orderly on foot and try- 
ing to keep pace with the horse. When he arrived at his des- 
tination, the orderly would dash up, out of breath, and assist him 
to alight, then hold the animal until he had made his call. When 
he was readv to return, the servant nuist again assist him to 
mount and then follow the galloping horse. This practice shows 
a lack of good judgment. The government of which this of- 
ficer was a representative, had controlled India for years ; Chris- 
tianity had been taught to the people, and here was a representa- 
tive of the same government using his servant more like a beast 
than a human being. Missionaries had been at work in China 
for years, preaching and teaching a good cause and there were 
representatives of a Christian nation practicing outrages which 
we did not see even among the pagans. Doubtless the Chinese 
observed these things as closely as we, for they are very keen. 
A missionary was traveling in a sedan chair or jinrikisha, with 
natives sweating and toiling to carry him over the ground. This 
man was preaching and representing a cause which can never be 
equaled, a doctrine which is far reaching and for the betterment 
of mankind. But these teachers of Christianity in a pagan em- 
pire were practicing pagan customs, wdiich would doubtless have 
a tendency to hurt the cause they were sent to proclaim. 




THE AUTHOR 

AS HE APPEARS AT THE PRESENT TTME. 



PROLOGUE. 

When hope lies dead within the heart, 

By secret sorrow close concealed, 
We shrink lest looks or words impart 

What must not be revealed. 

'Tis hard to smile when one would weep; 

To speak when one would silent be; 
To wake when one should wish to sleep. 

And wake to agony. 

Yet such the lot by thousands cast, 

Who wander in this world of care. 
And bend beneath the bitter blast 

To save them from despair. 

But nature waits her guests to greet, 

Where disappointments can not come; 
And time guides with unerring feet 

The weary wanderers home. —Turner. 

Fate appears to play a peculiar part in maiw people's lives. 
One does not know what is before him in this life. 

While in the service my friends worried and were very much 
concerned about me lest I receive some mjury or lose my life 
while campaigning- in Cuba, the Philippines and China. 

But these I survived without any serious results. After re- 
ceiving my discharge I secured a situation at construction work, 
which" consisted in laying water mains and erecting water tanks 
The territorv which our work covered was Iowa, Minnesota and 
Missouri I was very much pleased with the work and after be- 
ing with them for some time, the contractor selected me for one 

of his foremen. 

About eighteen months after leaving the service, we were en- 
gao-ed in laying water mains in the central part of Iowa. W e 
had begun the work early in the autumn and expected to com- 
plete it before the cold weather would set in. But there were 
many difficulties in the way and we found that it could not be 
completed until near Christmas. 

The ground was frozen and dynamite was used to assist us in 
excavating. Holes were drilled in the frozen ground, a pound 



190 Around the Would with Uncle Sam. 

or more of dynamite placed in each, fuses were lit and with the 
explosion of the dynamite, large pieces of frozen earth were torn 
loose, thus saving a large amount of labor. 

One cold afternoon of December, 1903, we prepared one dozen 
of these charges and after lighting them, went to a safe distance 
from them to await the discharge of the shots. After sufficient 
time had elapsed for the explosion to take place I returned to the 
place and found that one charge had not exploded. Thinking 
that the cap was bad or fuse defective, I determined I would re- 
move it, for it would be dangerous for the men to work around it 
with picks, for they were liable to strike it and set it off. I bent 
over and secured the fuse with my right hand, but just as I 
grasped it the shot exploded, tearing ofif my right arm, blowing 
out my eyes and fracturing my jawbone. 

As I staggered back, one of the men who accompanied me 
caught me in his arms, thus preventing me from falling. Doc- 
tors were summoned and were soon busy trying to straighten me 
out. I was taken to the hospital and for several days it was 
thought I would not recover. But after a week had elapsed I 
began to improve. I then learned that I would never be able to 
see again and would only have the use of my left hand. I sat 
up every day as long as I possibly could and thus gained strength 
more rapidly. 

After being in the hospital six weeks, the doctor thought I 
was strong enough to make the journey home to Ohio. My 
brother, who had been summoned when I was injured, accom- 
panied me on the journey. Months passed before my injuries 
were perfectly healed, and not until then did I begin to realize 
my actual condition. My nerves were badly shattered and I 
would have nervous attacks which lasted for several days, in 
which I had severe chills and any loud noise would set my nerves 
tingling. I found I must have something to do to keep my mind 
occupied ; something in which I would receive physical exercise 
also. My first attempt was to learn to read from the raised let- 
ters, but I made verv little progress at this, only having one hand. 
I then decided to invest in a small confectionery store. The busi- 
ness was not very prosperous, and after a few months I secured 
an order of small household articles, a small boy to lead me, and 
then started on a journey through the town to sell these articles. 
I went from house to house and at the end of a half hour became 



Prologue. 191 

so fidgety and nervous that I was compelled to return home, hav- 
ing made one or two sales. The next day I again proceeded on 
my round and was in time able to stand four or five hours' work a 
day. 

I was at first very sensitive as to the attitude of the people to 
whom I offered my small wares for sale. Some were kind and 
very considerate ; others indifferent and curt in their replies, which 
was very discouraging. I soon visited neighboring towns and 
villages to sell my wares and soon I realized that my health was 
slowly improving. But I was unable to travel in the hot sun- 
shine and must do most of my work in the mornings and even- 
ings. In this way I met many people who were pleasant and in- 
teresting in conversation, which had a good effect upon me. One 
who has been deprived of sight has a rather difficult problem to 
face, for one's misfortune is so apt to be uppermost in the mind. 
The mind is busy always, but when one has the eyes to assist in 
changing the current of the thoughts, one can adapt himself to 
almost any circumstances. 

One passing along the street sees flowers, trees, and so many 
objects of interest that the mind is easily diverted, but one does 
not realize the effect these have, until deprived of them, by loss 
of sight. These must all come at secondhand to the blind. I 
could soon distinguish between the voices of friends, and knew 
them at once by the sound of the voice. Another blind man lived 
near me and often came to the store. We soon became warm 
friends, and spent many pleasant hours together. There was a 
closer bond of sympathy between us, which drew us nearer to- 
gether. Business in the store began to wane, and in October, 
almost a year after opening the store, I decided to close shop. 
The weather was disagreeable and my health not so good as it 
had been in the summer. Near Christmas another blind friend 
visited me. He was engaged in selling pencils, and advised me 
to do the same. 

This I finally determined to do, and after securing a stock of 
goods I once more began visiting towns and even ventured to 
cities, doing a very good business. The boy who accompanied me, 
caused expenses to be much higher than tney would have been 
otherwise, but my health was much improved by these journeys, 
and the experience of much benefit to me. One great drawback 
to me was the city ordinances prohibiting the sale of articles 



192 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

from place to place. In one city the chief of police stopped me 
and asked me where I was from. On hearing my reply he 
instantly informed me that I would be obliged to return there or 
at least get out of his city, for they had enough beggars there. 
After showing pencils to him and telling him that I had a good 
line and was trying to make this an occupation, I was told that 
it was against the city ordinance and he would not permit it 
there. I then made my way to the mayor's office and there was 
granted a permit to canvass the town. 

I decided to erect a small stand in the town of which I am a 
resident and carry on a small business there. This was built on 
the principal street in an offset made by one of the churches of 
the town. The church officials had granted me permission to 
place it there. The stand was built according to my own plans. 
When it had been completed I arranged my little stock of goods 
so as to be able to find them readily. I did well at this for some 
time, but after a short period business began to wane, and I 
found that I must have some one to dust and keep the place in 
neater condition. I then secured the assistance of a small friend, 
and again tried it for awhile. All through my business experi- 
ence I found that the children seemed to be my best friends. 
They were my best customers, and when closing out my little 
store they patronized me till the last. Yet T had a number of other 
friends who had stood by me. 

One always holds a warm and tender feeling for those whom 
you know to be loyal and true friends. Those who always are 
willing to step out of their way at any time to do you a favor. 
Life indeed would be hard if the world were without such as 
these. There are times when a cheery "good morning," or a 
hearty word of greeting means so much in people's lives ; much 
more than many can comprehend. But when we find that our 
lives must be spent in ways not of our own choosing, the sooner 
one resigns to the inevitable and adapts himself to the circum- 
stances which surround him, the easier it is to get along. 

I became restless and decided to travel again, leaving my 
helper in charge of the stand. I made several journeys to sur- 
rounding cities, being absent eight and ten days at a time, and 
sometimes doing a very nice business. In one city in particular, 
I was very much surprised at the numerous sales we made. This 
was a large manufacturing town in northeastern Ohio. A large 



Proi.ogui?;. 198 

element of the population were foreigners ; many Italians hav- 
ing business places on the principal streets. These 1 found to be 
the most liberal and kind hearted strangers that I had ever met 
on my journeys. I had always been of the (opinion that this class 
of people were selfish and greedy. P.ut after observing the differ- 
ent classes of foreigners I found that Italians, Chinese and 
Germans were my best patrons, and were nnich more consider- 
ate in their conduct toward me than Americans. This was in- 
deed a surprise to me as I had always believed that Americans 
were the kindest and most generous people. 

I now desired to make a more extensive trip than any I had 
yet made. I decided to go to Minneapolis and to Iowa, where I 
knew I would meet friends whom I knew before I was injured. 
Early in September in company with my little friend, 1 started 
northward toward the Great Lakes, stopping on the Avay for an 
interview w^ith our district representative, who was at that time 
interested in securing a pension for me. Early one mormng, 
while passing through the northern part of Ohio, we were en- 
gaged in selling pencils, and had just made a sale to a butcher, 
when we heard a loud crash, followed by a noisy clatter in the 
street. Wagons and ambulances went flying by at a rapid pace. 
People rushed madly along the street and stopped about one-half 
block above us. There the east wing of a large automobile 
factory, which had been constructed from concrete and cement 
had collapsed, killing six or eight workmen and injuring a large 
number. They soon set to work to remove those who were im- 
prisoned beneath the debris, taking the injured to the hospital in 
automobiles and ambulances. The friends of those who were 
dead and injured gathered about the place, lamenting and crying. 

We then contiued on our way, passing through large fruit dis- 
tricts, where thousands of bushels of large yellow peaches and 
grapes were raised. These I could not see, but my little com- 
panion gave me information concerning them, also new friends 
whom I met on the way. We spent Sunday in Toledo, where 
we attended church service. This we enjoyed very much espe- 
cially the sermon, which gave me a new inspiration for the commg 
week. We spent several days in that city, selling many pencils 
in the large office buildings there. In these we would go up on 
the elevator, then starting on the top floor walked down until 
the ground floor was reached. In one nine story building the 



194 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

boy became confused in the stairways and we got into a back 
stairway or fire escape, which was filled with dust and cobwebs. 
I remarked to the boy that these two floors must be a long dis- 
tance apart, not knowing that we were going down the entire 
flight of steps until we emerged from the stairway in an alley, 
covered with dust and cobwebs. Two men across the alley called 
to us, and laughingly asked us if we were chimney sweepers. 

Our next stop was in Detroit. In the suburbs of the city at 
Fort Wayne I met several members of Company B, Ninth In- 
fantry with whom I had soldiered in China. There I remained a 
day, chatting with the boys. We then crossed to Ann Arbor, 
Jackson and Battle Creek. Saturday we spent in Battle Creek. 
There are large sanitariums here which are conducted by Seventh 
Day Adventists, and we found that there was a large settlement 
of them there. Their places of business were all closed that being 
their Sabbath. The following day we reached Kalamazoo. That 
day being Sunday we spent the day resting, and attending ser- 
vice, where we met warm friends. A few days later we reached 
Grand Rapids. There we were forbidden to sell, as it was con- 
trary to the city ordinance. Our sales in Michigan had been slow 
with the exception of a few towns. Most people were indififerent, 
and at many of the business places they made motions for the boy 
to lead me on and not enter. At Grand Haven we secured passage 
on a lake steamer, and that night journeyed across the lake to 
Milwaukee, arriving there next morning. Here we sold several 
gross of pencils. 

The Brotherhood of Firemen were then holding their conven- 
tion in that city, and I made the acquaintance of their official 
chaplain, who was blind. With him I had several interesting 
conversations, and learned that his home was in Philadelphia, 
Pa. There I also met my blind friend who had advised me to 
enter the pencil business. lUit he had now ceased to handle 
pencils himself, for he could do better he said with household 
articles. A blind friend of his from Highland Park, Illinois, was 
visiting him and we spent several pleasant evenings together, 
talking over our experience as blind salesmen. It is peculiar 
how soon the blind become warm friends on short acquaintance. 

We boarded a car here for Chicago, stopping at the towns along 
the line, Zion City being one. There we were told that Dowie, 
the builder and ruler of the citv nnist leave it the following week 



Proi.oguf; 195 

in disgrace. Our sales were increasing and we slopped at l'"t. 
Sheridan, where I had heen stationed for a time while in the 
service. There were no l)oys here whom I had known. We 
arrived in Evanston v^alnrda\ night, having sold al)out "i.OdO 
pencils. We spent Sunday there and attended service. Next 
morning we proceeded t)n our way to Chicago. Arriving on 
Madison street, we at once had our stock of pencils replenished. 
We did not attempt to make sales here for my boy was too small 
to pilot me through the crowded streets. From there we jour- 
neyed to Elgin; from there westward to the Mississip])i. From 
there we proceeded on our way to La Crosse and Winona. We 
spent Sunday in the latter place. This we found to be a pleasant 
city, situated on both the river and Ivake Winona. 

We now sold large numbers of pencils, people were very kind 
and pleasant, and we spent much time in talking to those who 
became interested in us. All towns that we now visited were 
small and we passed on to Redwing, taking the train there for 
Minneapolis. While on that train many of the passengers in the 
coach came back to our seat, shook hands warmly and after pur- 
chasing pencils, spent some time in conversation. Several hours 
were pleasantly spent with these newly found acquaintances. 
The next day we sold pencils in Minneapolis. Here we were very 
busy selling in the of^ces and business places; many people also 
stopping us on the street to purchase. We were in that city five 
days and sold more on the last day of our stay than on the first. 
Thousands of harvest hands were returning from the great wheat 
regions of the northwest, a large number of wdiom were Swedes 
and Norwegians. Our next stopping place w^as St. Paul, where 
I met many friends that I knew before I became blind. Here we 
spent several days, but the weather now became somewhat colder 
and a light skift of snow covered the ground. We then started 
on the return trip, after visiting the place where I had received 
my injury. There I met scores of acquaintances, and old friends. 
C)ne bright sunshiny morning we went out to the place wdiere I 
had been injured. Near it now stands a large coal chute and 
roundhouse of forty-six stalls. After spending several days here 
and at Waterloo, we returned to Chicago. 

On -our homeward journey we passed through Indianapolis, 
where we spent Sunday. There we attended a very impressive 
church service. There were three sermons given by three genera- 



196 Around the World with Uncle Sam. 

tions. The first minister was ninety years of age, and preached 
in the same manner as he did in former years, when he was a 
young minister, riding" a circuit and receiving no salary, except 
what his congregations saw fit to grant him. The second minis- 
ter, sixty years of age, who spoke of the spread of the gospel and 
the increase in the membership of the church and the progress 
that had been made during the time of his ministry. The third, a 
young man of thirty years, who showed how the gospel is spread- 
ing to foreign fields, pointing out to his two aged brothers in the 
ministry, a class of fifteen' Chinese converts, who were then mem- 
bers of his congregation. 

The afternoon we spent in listening to the Salvation Army 
preaching and singing on the street corner. After these had 
abandoned the corner it was occupied by the Israelites, who 
preached on the immortality of the body. After these had passed 
on the place was occupied by a man and small boy with guitar 
and mandolin, who sang songs. Then we heard a sound of boxes 
being slid along on the pavement, and soon we heard the voice of 
a Socialist, who spoke on political subjects, and how his party 
could benefit the poor and the working men. Thus the afternoon 
was spent on the corner of one of the principal streets in the city. 
Next morning we started for Ft. Wayne, stopping at small towns 
on the way, and one cold morning listened to William Jennings 
Bryan speak on the political issue, in Peru. Our sales in Indiana 
were few. In Indianapolis the police prevented us from making 
any sales, until I had received written permission from the 
mayor. After crossing into Ohio our sales again increased and 
on Saturday we reached Columbus, where the following day we 
attended service and visited the Blind Institution, and spent a 
pleasant afternoon in conversation with the superintendent, a 
very kind and pleasant man. After we had spent several days 
here we returned home, having been absent two months. 

I then planned for a trip to Washington, where I desired an 
interview with the Pension Committee. I secured another stock 
of pencils and in company with my little friend started on my 
way. On this journey we traveled through West Virginia, and 
from there into Maryland. Here it was very difficult to make 
sales and in many towns we were forbidden to sell at all. In 
Baltimore we spent several days, but had little success. We were 
not permitted to sell in the office buildings and these being our 



Prologue. 197 

main hold, we left for Washington, arrivini; there tvv(j days after 
the beginning of the session. 

Our representative from (Jhio secured an audience with llie 
committee for me. The chairman of this committee soon in- 
formed me that he could do nothing in my case. My representa- 
tive did all in his power to secure a little assistance for me from 
our great and rich government. On our way home we passed 
through an eastern city, where we were stopped by the police 
and not allowed to sell. Here we learned of the sad case of a poor 
old blind man who had a dog to lead him. He sold articles on the 
corner of one of the principal streets, thus making an honorable 
living. He had made many friends and was well patronized. 
His home was in Virginia, but he came to this place in the spring 
and remained there on the corner during the summer, selling 
articles. The city council decided that it was not the proper 
thing to allow him to sell there, because that was not his home, 
thus depriving the helpless old man of his trade. 

After I had been ordered not to sell in the town, I proceeded to 
the mayor's office, but he referred me to the chief of police. I 
explained to him that I only wished to visit the offices and places 
of business. He informed me that the city council had just passed 
a strict ordinance, prohibiting any sales in the city. But being 
kind hearted he at length gave me permission. We had much 
amusement in making sales, for after selling for an hour or more, 
we would be met by some guardian of the law, who would send us 
to the mayor's office ; he would laugh and send us out again. 

There seems to be a great deal of trouble with crippled men 
who sell articles in the city. :\Iany of them drink and carouse, 
thus making it difficult for those who do not. We passed through 
Philadelphia, Harrisburg. Altoona and Pittsburg, but made few 
sales through the eastern cities. 

After an absence of three weeks we reached home. It was then 
that I decided to try to relate an account of my traveling experi- 
ences, thinking that perhaps that might afiford an opportunity 
for a little easier method of making my own way. There is al- 
ways a way for those who are willing to help themselves, even 
though they be seriously handicapped. We hope for better things 
in the life to come, and with a firm belief and trust in God, try to 
bear patiently the trials and difficulties which we meet along the 
way. 



APR 27 1907 



xDivHKT ui- CONGRESS 




